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mhux

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About mhux

  • Rank
    enthusiast
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

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    11worth
  1. Mt challenger via whatcom peak?

    Thanks for the info- I was mistaken in thinking Steph climbed the west ridge, when in fact it was the North ridge! I don't suppose anyone has climbed the west ridge? Looks steep..
  2. Hi there, I am wondering about the approach to Mt Challenger via easy ridge: it seems most people end up doing the 'imperfect impasse', but I read a Steph Abegg tr where she climbed up and over the west ridge of Whatcom to reach perfect pass. Why don't more people just climb over Whatcom? It seems that perfect pass is really close from the summit, and the ridge to summit is a class 3 scramble- why do people opt for the imperfect impasse? I must be missing something, unless folks just aren't aware of this option. Maybe its 'class 3++'? Can anyone clue me in? Thanks! Max
  3. Volcano ski condition 'forecasting'

    Interesting thoughts, thanks all. I didn't consider how a storm exits. Also I am sure that getting away from Hood would help!
  4. Wise volcano climbers and skiers of this website and the PNW: Wondering if anyone can share their wisdom of forecasting good volcano ski conditions (winter/ pre-corn). I pretty much assume anything above treeline is wind blasted, golfball sized rime chunks, boilerplate ice, or sastrugi (usually a combo) during the winter. This sour grapes attitude has left me really surprised when friends report skiing (Mt. Hood in most cases) powder from the summit, or even on the Palmer during the winter (okay, maybe more like March-April, and given that it doesn't seem to happen that often!). I am not really talking about corn cycle, although any wisdom is appreciated. Mostly how to determine whether the skiing will be ice chunder or decent above timberline. It seems that most big storms are windy and rowdy, and just scour anything above timberline, with the exception of localized lee pockets of softer snow. Does it just take less windy storms? Better aspect/terrain choices? It also seems that given a few clear midwinter days, anything sunny gets icy or a nasty sun crust- yet I am surprised by the winter corn harvests I read about from such periods. Obviously my cynical mindset is holding me back from the goods, so can anyone walk me through their conditions forecasting process? Is it a matter of just hoping for the best or are you all semi pro meteorologists? Thanks and happy (ice) skiing! Max
  5. Hey there! Selling a few pairs of boots that are taking up space. I wear a 45.5 or 11.5 street shoe (in Sportiva) for reference. Pickup in Portland preferred, but I am open to driving if you are in the PNW. Otherwise PM me for shipping. Happy to send more photos or field questions about the boots! First up, La Sportiva Batura Evos, in 45.5. $175. Boots are in good condition, normal scuffs and two crampon holes in the left ones gaiter (just through the neoprene like material, not through the actual boot). I really like these boots but they don't fit my wide feet and most days end in foot pain. They climb well and have been warm up to 6000m in the tropics (not in AK!). Next up, La Sportiva Spantiks, in 46. $275 OBO. I bought these for a trip to Peru, they were great if not a little overkill. They fit my wide feet better, but I won't be going on an expedition for a while. The rands could use a spot or two of shoe goo, but otherwise they are in great shape.
  6. North Faces conditions

    No bites? Trailheads are still snowed in, stuff up high must still be good...
  7. Pretty familiar with the NW but haven't been around for a year, coming back Friday for a few weeks to climb/ski whats in. I've heard that the snowpack is good but recently it has been warm, more June than May. Wondering if the classic N face routes still in or is it more volcano corn season? Thinking Hood, Dragontail, Stuart, and other May alpine ice routes. Any recommendations for routes you enjoy in these conditions are welcome too! Thanks in advance, and see you out there! Max
  8. Holy linkup....nice work condensing a season on Hood into one day!
  9. [TR] Dragontail Peak - NE couloir 3/1/2015

    Mixed pitch looks straight out of Chamonix...gotta love the Stuart range! Nice work and great pictures!
  10. [TR] Dragontail - Gerber-Sink variation? 3/24/2015

    Nice, love the bailure mentality getting pushed out by awesome climbing!! Dragontail is looking super fat...way to get it
  11. Loving the drone vids as well, really unique way to present the towers/utah desert. What an incredible place...
  12. PLB (PSA?) plug

    Yeah, I guess it doesn't make a ton of sense to have the 2way stuff on a day or two out in the Cascades...good expedition tool though. Should have thought of that before posting! If you can/are willing to afford it though its pretty neat...
  13. PLB (PSA?) plug

    Reading some TRs recently, I've noticed a lot of PLB usage and following discussions of brands and benefits, so I thought I'd chime in with my experience. This is basically a big plug for the Delorme Inreach, the device is pretty awesome and will probably save you a headache at some point (I'm not associated with Delorme in any way, I wish I was getting paid for this!). In short, it saved mothers and girlfriends a lot of stress, due to the 2 way communication (versus an ok/not ok/emergency option scheme). While it was sort of silly to be texting my mom, my gf, my friends mom and his gf from a remote Himalayan valley (/spray), it was nice knowing they weren't having daily panic attacks imaging us dying in various ways. Instead they were racking up the texting bill, to my dismay! I balked at the initial price (+ subscription, ugh), but you can use it worldwide (unless that's changed) and it might save you a costly ride home since you can communicate with to-be rescuers. Stay safe out there!
  14. RIP Portland/Anchorage climber Dasan...

    Dasan was introduced to me by one of his best friends. His 100% stoke for getting after it was infectious and we quickly became friends. We only got out together a few times, skiing, climbing, but he truly loved being in the mountains (why he moved to Alaska!) and I was always hearing of his latest ice sends or alaska range plans. One time we tried to climb the Reid headwall without any sleep and get back in time for morning class, needless to say it didn't work out but I was lucky enough to share one of the most beautiful sunrises I've ever seen with him, while skiing rime to the car. It was far too early for someone this enthusiastic about living to go....its unreal that he's gone. Condolences to his family, friends, and all who he inspired. Rest in peace Dasan.
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