John Frieh

I'm hoping to see a few of you tomorrow (Thursday) night at Mountain Gear! Two of these climbs (Dickey and Wake) were selected by the Piolet d'Or committee as one of the "significant, innovative, ascents of 2012" and I'm excited to share the photos and story behind each climb. :brew:

I dont know if I agree with "world class climbers" but the Mugs Stump commitee split $33,500 between nine teams this year. :tup: What about this CPB?

Come on Dane... tell us how you really feel!!!

The best way to get ice performance from a fusion is to sell it and buy nomics

Climbs ice better (not as radical pick angle) but as you probably can guess isn't as "stable" mixed climbing.

Sonabitch. Glad to see someone else was brave enough to venture back there. Well done boys

Jess Roskelley and myself will be giving a presentation at Mountain Gear Thursday Feb 28rd in Spokane, WA at 7 pm. We will be showing photos from Burkett Needle, Mt Burkett, Mt Dickey, Mt Wake and likely some other stuff. Would be stoked to have some cc.comers in the crowd... perhaps a pub club before or after?

Email sent

Vince Anderson

Total wankers.

Not trying to bust your chops dude! Stoked you are giving some props to two great guys; I really enjoyed climbing with Jess in AK last October. Just trying to avoid HFA falling victim to grade inflation

HFA is M6+ not M7

Has Claus promised to fly you in or will all this grant $$ get you a direct heli-drop from Seattle? :laf:

Thanks! This award along with the Mugs Stump award will support our upcoming expedition this spring. So no story just yet I am doing a show at Mountain Gear in Spokane on the 28th of this month with lots of pics/etc from AK this year. If you can make it and introduce yourself first round is on me!

I was looking for one this time last year and managed to find someone on Mountain Project willing to part with it. You might consider posting over there. Good luck!

One vote for the latest version of the Petzl Adjama. As comfortable as the Xenos but way lighter. Much more comfortable than any of the Arcteryx offerings.

Bump. Conditions are likely prime for this most of the week

Great job Vern and Craig. Thanks for sharing your beta with us Saturday night. Climbed this Sunday with Jess Roskelley and Daniel Harro; we found it rather enjoyable and safe. No simulclimbing... no runouts... just a nice casual multipitch route in WA of all places. We did it car to car as a team of three in 8 hours including a very stuck rope on one rap so though this might have been a grade V in 1991 in present day with modern screws and all ice conditions this route is a grade III at most. I'm basing that on having climbing routes including Ames Ice Hose (grade III), Stairway to Heaven (grade III), Bird Brain Boulevard (grade IV), and Polar Circus (grade V) among others.

Trip: Strobach - Hate Pony (FA) Date: 1/6/2013 Summary: First Ascent of Hate Pony WI4 M4 Katie Mills Todd Eddie and John Frieh January 6 2013 Details: Took FIVE others into Strobach on Sunday... new record for most people at Strobach on a given day? We split into two teams of three: Brad, Rebecca and Nate fired out Sad Cebu (currently in crap conditions) followed by Sudden Change of Plans (excellent conditions) while Katie, Todd and I ran laps on Ice Dreams (excellent conditions) followed by the first ascent of what is listed as Unclimbed A in the book. I've had my eye on Unclimbed A for a few seasons now; even though the hanger hadn't touched down it was the most filled in I had ever seen it including just enough ice to negotiate the roof on it's left side. Excited to get up the remaining "Unclimbed" route from Alex's excellent guidebook. Shout out to Todd for leading Ice Dreams for his very first time climbing water ice. Ever. And of course one for Katie for making sure we all were "appropriately hydrated." Until next time Todd. First time climbing Water ice. On his very first lead. Bona fide Oh hey! HATE PONY Gear Notes: Gear to #1 camalot for Hate Pony + 1-2 10 cm screws 0.5 camalot key piece IMO Petzl Darts for dealing with the super thin ice on Hate Pony Approach Notes: Likely the best snowshoe track ever. You're welcome

Mist falls. When was that taken? Today?

I've done it. I put Petzl front bails on my g20s and 22s but that was because they Petzl bail fit my narrow scarpas much better then the Grivel bail. I'm guessing Grivel redesigned their bail (???) as my experience has been the Petzl bail fits a narrower rands better than Grivel...?

5. Gym Jones Instructor Full Certification 4. FA "Nose Bleed Seats" Strobach 3. FA South Face Mt Wake Ruth Gorge, AK 2. FA Northwest Face Mt Burkett Stikine Ice Cap, AK 1. FA Northeast Face Mt Dickey Ruth Gorge, AK Onward

Yes. Less than 90 is much safer. Even better: go hiking outside

Hey Dan: where were you? Strobach? If so how was the approach?

That was me, actually. And by "good part of the day", I think you mean 6 hours, which was essentially the entire clinic (after half an hour waiting for one person who was late and one person who never showed up). It's true that conditions were challenging, I probably would not have done better myself (in fact, I walk around in the woods all day in order to not ice climb all the time), and you can't expect guides to do everything for you, etc etc, but I was expecting them to at least get us to the bottom of a climb, so I'm a little annoyed. I did get at least one thing out of the clinic, which was learning the approach to Elevator Shaft so we could climb it on our own the next day. That was fun. Ummm... I think it is a fair expectation for a guide to know where they are taking you. Super lame... I would have asked for a refund.