John Frieh

Total wankers.

Not trying to bust your chops dude! Stoked you are giving some props to two great guys; I really enjoyed climbing with Jess in AK last October. Just trying to avoid HFA falling victim to grade inflation

HFA is M6+ not M7

Has Claus promised to fly you in or will all this grant $$ get you a direct heli-drop from Seattle? :laf:

Thanks! This award along with the Mugs Stump award will support our upcoming expedition this spring. So no story just yet I am doing a show at Mountain Gear in Spokane on the 28th of this month with lots of pics/etc from AK this year. If you can make it and introduce yourself first round is on me!

One vote for the latest version of the Petzl Adjama. As comfortable as the Xenos but way lighter. Much more comfortable than any of the Arcteryx offerings.

Bump. Conditions are likely prime for this most of the week

Great job Vern and Craig. Thanks for sharing your beta with us Saturday night. Climbed this Sunday with Jess Roskelley and Daniel Harro; we found it rather enjoyable and safe. No simulclimbing... no runouts... just a nice casual multipitch route in WA of all places. We did it car to car as a team of three in 8 hours including a very stuck rope on one rap so though this might have been a grade V in 1991 in present day with modern screws and all ice conditions this route is a grade III at most. I'm basing that on having climbing routes including Ames Ice Hose (grade III), Stairway to Heaven (grade III), Bird Brain Boulevard (grade IV), and Polar Circus (grade V) among others.

Trip: Strobach - Hate Pony (FA) Date: 1/6/2013 Summary: First Ascent of Hate Pony WI4 M4 Katie Mills Todd Eddie and John Frieh January 6 2013 Details: Took FIVE others into Strobach on Sunday... new record for most people at Strobach on a given day? We split into two teams of three: Brad, Rebecca and Nate fired out Sad Cebu (currently in crap conditions) followed by Sudden Change of Plans (excellent conditions) while Katie, Todd and I ran laps on Ice Dreams (excellent conditions) followed by the first ascent of what is listed as Unclimbed A in the book. I've had my eye on Unclimbed A for a few seasons now; even though the hanger hadn't touched down it was the most filled in I had ever seen it including just enough ice to negotiate the roof on it's left side. Excited to get up the remaining "Unclimbed" route from Alex's excellent guidebook. Shout out to Todd for leading Ice Dreams for his very first time climbing water ice. Ever. And of course one for Katie for making sure we all were "appropriately hydrated." Until next time Todd. First time climbing Water ice. On his very first lead. Bona fide Oh hey! HATE PONY Gear Notes: Gear to #1 camalot for Hate Pony + 1-2 10 cm screws 0.5 camalot key piece IMO Petzl Darts for dealing with the super thin ice on Hate Pony Approach Notes: Likely the best snowshoe track ever. You're welcome

Mist falls. When was that taken? Today?

I've done it. I put Petzl front bails on my g20s and 22s but that was because they Petzl bail fit my narrow scarpas much better then the Grivel bail. I'm guessing Grivel redesigned their bail (???) as my experience has been the Petzl bail fits a narrower rands better than Grivel...?

5. Gym Jones Instructor Full Certification 4. FA "Nose Bleed Seats" Strobach 3. FA South Face Mt Wake Ruth Gorge, AK 2. FA Northwest Face Mt Burkett Stikine Ice Cap, AK 1. FA Northeast Face Mt Dickey Ruth Gorge, AK Onward

Yes. Less than 90 is much safer. Even better: go hiking outside

Hey Dan: where were you? Strobach? If so how was the approach?

That was me, actually. And by "good part of the day", I think you mean 6 hours, which was essentially the entire clinic (after half an hour waiting for one person who was late and one person who never showed up). It's true that conditions were challenging, I probably would not have done better myself (in fact, I walk around in the woods all day in order to not ice climb all the time), and you can't expect guides to do everything for you, etc etc, but I was expecting them to at least get us to the bottom of a climb, so I'm a little annoyed. I did get at least one thing out of the clinic, which was learning the approach to Elevator Shaft so we could climb it on our own the next day. That was fun. Ummm... I think it is a fair expectation for a guide to know where they are taking you. Super lame... I would have asked for a refund.

:laf: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-spantik.html

Green lake snotel site at 6000'. http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/mesowest/getobext.php?wfo=sew&sid=GRLW1&num=168&raw=0&dbn=m Close to strobach but on the south side of the ridge. kick, stab 'n scratch

Maybe compared to the Hyalite report it does this is the worst year in a long time for Cody

Go north: http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=12860#Post12860

I was probably the only one dumb enough to hike in there early season for the last two years! It's good karma for future trips

Roj said he climbed some stuff including a new line near source lake about a week ago. I could ask him for the details if you want. Anybody hike into Strobach yet?

Trip: Hood - Devil's Kitchen HW Date: 11/27/2012 Trip Report: As of yesterday excellent conditions. Minimal post holing + actual WI made for a fine day out. Stoked Bonafide. Rocksteady A fine day at the office Gear Notes: Philly cheesesteak Hair tie

Pencil is close but needs at least another week.

Trip: Canada - Polar Circus Date: 11/17/2012 Trip Report Summary: 11/15-16: PDX -> Icefield Parkway 11/16: Laps on lower Weeping Wall 11/17: Polar Circus 11/18: Icefield Parkway -> PDX Good times kicking ice season off with Mr Schmitz up north. Until next time Some things never change... Shaking the rust off Intro Polar pitches Breaking the rope out Headed for the Pencil Pencil barely touching Turning the Pencil Upper Tier Ribbon Pitch Homestretch Gear Notes: Petzl Lynx love Approach Notes: zoom zoom

Little off topic but the Lorpen Trekking Expedition Sock are by far and away the best sock I have ever used. Only thing I wear climbing now