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jonne

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About jonne

  • Rank
    stranger
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

Converted

  • Location
    The Wetside
  1. Fat skin recomends

    I have a pair of BD Splits for my Voile Drifters (130 underfoot). They work great, and the weight and bulk savings is noticeable. The one thing that I imagine people complain about, and took me a while to learn, is that, SURPRISE, there is no traction in the center of your ski. What this means is that if you are climbing a beaten in skin track with ridges or just on hard snow with a flat ski you can "ridge out" on that center strip, and lose traction a bit. They climb tenaciously in the fresh and on a little edge, so I've learned, when this happens, to either step into the fresh or roll a ski on edge to re-engage the fur. Wider skis are harder to sidehill with when it gets firmer due to leverage issues, so ski crampons are more beneficial to the big boards, FYI.
  2. I miss Hula Wahine, she was my steed for a few days too! I echo everything the OP said about the company. I rented on Maui too, and while that is definitely also worth it, it showed what a tight ship these guys run. They don't let you run a couple roads but I walked or 4x4 hitchhiked on some of the no-gos and can verify they are beyond the abilities of these vans. Another tidbit: while it's impossible to completely hide, you are not seen as "a tourist" as much as anyone driving one of these a shiny agency rental, and are thus way less of a target for break-ins, harassment, etc....which is a bit more of an issue on the Big Island than other ones.
  3. Mt. Hood Climbing Conditions for December

    On a good day in December the climbing is fantastic and perfect for soloing. On a bad day in December you die of exposure.
  4. Rainier - Route recommendation?

    Yeah the chute looked pretty good from the 11,200 notch and I didn't see anything fall. Heard some small stuff after sunrise but hey, its a big mountain and this ain't the Emmons route. As I said, surface streams had frozen overnight, down to at least 9,000'. I think a 10k freezing level would be super solid, and even a 12k doable. I can't remember the forecast for 9/3/12 but I bet water was freezing several thousand below stated FL. Suuntos are hopeless if on your wrist in a sleeping bag. I now just bring my nice loud iphone. Both my partner and I now have different busted buttons on our relatively new Suuntos...are Suuntos crap now?
  5. Rainier - Route recommendation?

    I had no idea the Nisqually was doable. We started at Longmire (UGH) and were at the low bivy on 9/2...never saw a soul the whole way up or down (except very near the ends). Van Trump is also lot of scree too. We got up to the notch rappel at 11,200 (looked about 20' free) at ~3:30 on 9/3/12 and were met by a howling ridge wind and the sight of 1000 vf of solid ice with a couple snow patches (kinda the opposite of the normal route description). Given a couple issues we were having and what we were facing we decided to bag it (I hate making that decision). However almost all surface water had frozen that night and the mountain was quiet. I would have happily exited via the Wilson/Nisqually if I had known it was doable, but that it looked terrible from the 9,200' vantage point. As it was we endured all the way to the Comet Falls TH (officially closed due to insane, still surviving avalanche, but there were lots of day hikers) and hitchhiked down to Longmire. Could not have asked for better weather, and an empty Van Trump Park in full bloom was the surprise destination I never expected.
  6. Rainier - Route recommendation?

    Thanks that helps!
  7. Which alpine tool to buy?

    I ended up purchasing the CAMP Alpax. Reasons: 1. it was hugely on sale at BC.com, so cheapness won. 2. If I wanted to buy a matched second tool the Sum'Tec Adze is only reverse curve, no pick swap available either. Referencing GeneSpires, I want to have good snow bite for self arrest and picking on at least one tool. That said I really wish there was one because I agree that the sum'tec hammer had a whole lot of "right" going on. 3. I wanted a bit more shaft curve than the venom. Modding for Grivel sliders would negate any cost difference because the sliders are expensive. Also I'm a bit tired of BD. 4. The lack of reverse curve and non-pointy pick on the Grivel just had me nervous if I need serious bite in blue ice. That said, the slider is the best rest/attachment solution by far. Intial Observations not available on shopping sites: 1. The Alpax's pinky rest is bigger and beefier than it looks. 2. The handgrip slides up and has two lock points via a spring button (like telescoping tent poles have). Maybe an issue in icing? 3. A line drawn from the pick to the spike runs through the pinky grip. Unless it is stowed, it seems this would interfere with low dagger. 4. Sharp teeth all the way to the shaft. No piolet canne without thick gloves.
  8. Rainier - Route recommendation?

    Nothing posted on the ranger blog...any beta on Kautz gleaned from talking to the rangers? For us ice=good. I assume you mean crossing the lower Nisqually; was considering a Comet-Van Trump ascent anyways.
  9. Which alpine tool to buy?

    The Venom has no pinky/trigger grip, and I want to go leashless/umbilicized. Any thoughts on the Grivel's technical ability since it does not have the reverse pick angle like the other two? Should I worry about my ability to grip the shaft of the Sum'Tec sans rubber grip?
  10. Camp Alpax vs. Petzl Sum'tec vs. Grivel Air Tech Evo Configured as a hammer, low 50 cm length. Opine with your experience, rants, raves, and impromptu wild-animal defense stories! Also, I just realized that I have never posted before. 9 years between account setup and first post has to be a CC.com first!
  11. Which alpine tool to buy?

    Moved this to Gear Critic where it belongs.
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