John Frieh

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This Thursday at Basecamp the American Alpine Club is having a pub club. You don't have to be an AAC member to attend. Facebook info: https://www.facebook.com/events/1377304879220339/?ref=5 Probably a good place to meet a few partners

If LSD workout (<60% MHR) it isn't required but can help. Perpetuem from Hammer Nutrition is a great one. Post workout it is a very good idea. Recoverite from Hammer Nutrition is a good choice. Gatorade is absolute garbage and will negatively impact performance.

Answers: - Sony rx100 for me though some of these photos were taken with Jason's Canon P&S - Brad was rocking the HMS 2400 ice pack. He felt it was a little too small for Huntington hence the amount of stuff he had strapped to the sides. That said he thinks the 3400 might be a bit too big...? Your mileage may vary. - No windshirts; was too cold

Petzl Sirocco is awesome.

Assuming fast/light quick trips with good weather I would say: Team of 2: Firstlight Team of 3: Lighthouse Good luck finding a Lighthouse though; I had to look for awhile to find one. That said if you plan on extended trips and/or potential crap weather I'd consider Team of 2: I tent Team of 3: Eldorado I've seen Firstlight/Lighthouses shredded in high winds

It's actually a Petzl picket (Petzl calls them snowtubes). I really like them because the diameter/shape of the picket is the same as my shovel shaft so I dont have to bring a full shovel; just the shovel head and use the picket as the shaft.

Thanks! Wasn't planning on it but could be convinced...? If you're looking for photo beta for the French or WFC let me know

Trip: Mt Huntington - French (NW) Ridge (FWA) Date: 3/1/2014 Trip Report: Summary: On March 1st, Brad Farra (Portland, OR), Jason Stuckey (Fairbanks, Alaska) and I, John Frieh (Portland, OR), flew from Talkeetna to the Tokositna Glacier (~8600') below the west face of Mt. Huntington. We skipped establishing a base camp and instead immediately started climbing the French (NW) ridge, reaching an elevation of ~10,500' before bivying for the night. On March 2nd we started climbing around 8 am and reached the summit of Mt. Huntington just under 16 hours later around 11:30 pm. Due to the late summit we enjoyed a second bivy just below the summit at >12,000 feet. Six hours later we defrosted ourselves with mass quantities of coffee before beginning a descent of the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk) around 9 am. As Jason and I had climbed and descended the WFC in the winter of 2011 we were able to move quickly down the route and reached landing zone around 3 pm on March 3rd, making for ~51 hours on route. I believe this was the first winter ascent of the French Ridge of Mt Huntington during the winter season and the third overall winter ascent to date. Bob Butterfield's photo of the French Ridge (sun/shadow line): Brad on route; Jason Stuckey photo: Itinerary: Feb 28/March 1: PDX -> ANC -> Talkeetna March 1: Paul/TAT flew us to the East Fork of the Tokostina Glacier (~12 pm). Climbed to ~10,500' March 2: Mt Huntington summit March 3: Descent via the WFC; evening pick up Back story: I would be willing to bet most would agree Mount Huntington is a beautiful mountain. Classic lines, big faces, no "easy" way to the summit... dig out Alpinist 20 for a sweet mountain profile. For no particular reason the French ridge has always appealed to me... part aesthetics, part history (Lionel Terray!), and part commitment (you can't exactly bail off the route easily if conditions change). I knew the amount of snow and the size of the cornices would determine how quickly one could climb the ridge (if not summit at all) so I started considering the French ridge as either a fall climb or a late winter/early spring climb in hopes of finding ideal conditions. My thought was if one timed it just right this would be the best time to encounter minimal slogging and more importantly minimal cornices. I almost attempted it a few times over the last few years but something always prevented me from trying or a different line in the range looked better. Finally it all came together so we went for it... and it just so happened to be winter. That is to say I wasn't intent on making the FWA; I just wanted to climb it. This trip likely would never have happened if it not for the excellent beta that Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi provided on conditions. Best pilot and best flight service in Alaska. Also Mark Westman has been an excellent source of AK beta for me over the years; I know I asked him for his opinion of my Huntington idea more than once. Pictures: Early on climbing to get onto the ridge top: Almost on the ridge: First bivy: Second day sun: Early on second day: Getting closer... but not that close: Gear Notes: Light is Right! Petzl Quarks + Vasaks, new Arcteryx FL 45 liter pack (so sweet!), coffee Approach Notes: Talkeetna Air Taxi

Thursday?

http://rememberchadkellogg.tumblr.com/memorialservice

Contact Greg. He might be interested at that price http://www.topworldbooks.com/

Reverso 4 + Attache 3D is pretty sweet and light.

Full disclosure: I do have one now and yes I do still want to go! So little snow right now you in the area you would want an ATV. Maybe a few inches at most in places on the approach

Let me know if you dont mind a tag along

Climbed Ice Dreams and first two pitches of Sad Ce'bu yesterday. Climbs are hanging in there but if temps dont get colder will be gone soon. Other observations: - Primus Sucks looks good - Responsible Ladies looks a very thin in the middle but all there - Unholy is starting to turn white; likely out soon. - First on Left first pitch a little thin off ground but all there; second pitch is huge and looks fun - Hate Pony is there One can currently drive the road so approach is easier.

I dont think people are paying that much considering a scanned .pdf is floating around. With Brent's new select book coming out I bet prices continue to drop.

DAMN! That sucks dude! I'd consider posting over on Montana Ice as maybe a few of the FB pages for Montana ice climbers. Small consolation prize but looks like some great climbing.

Hope to see you all there tomorrow. Please introduce yourself!

Wednesday November 13th Daniel Harro and I will be sharing stories, pictures, and video from Alaska as part of the Portland Alpine Festival. I would love to see some familiar faces in the audience. [video:vimeo]78472230 Details

Nice

If you search WTB lighthouse in the yard sale forum you'll find 3 people in the past year who are looking for one

Jesse Huey and Colin Moorhead

Go Stuckey! Nice work team; super inspiring

Great pics; thanks for sharing. Fully agree it is one of the best in the range. I was going to say I had climbed it after 2007 but after checking I realized it was 2005. Guess I'm getting old!