John Frieh

If you are near Boulder I highly recommend Connie at the Alpine Training Center. Great coach and great facility.

Extreme Alpinism is one of the most influential books I have ever owned; though some of the material is slightly dated it is still one of the best books out there. Twight has since gone on and founded a gym in Salt Lake City: Gym Jones. Gym Jones is literally Extreme Alpinism 2.0. I hold training certifications with a number of organizations including CrossFit, Mountain Athlete (mentioned above), Steve Maxwell, Dan John, Body Tribe, among others and though each one has some value none of them come close to Gym Jones. I highly recommend the online membership; the amount of content and knowledge contained on the member site is overwhelming to say the least. Lastly, since you are in Portland I will mention starting next month I will be teaching a course for the Mazamas that will cover training for climbing: program theory, design and application, exercises, nutrition and recovery. If you want more details send me a PM or contact the Mazamas.

I might put him in charge of the kegs. We shall see

After a one year hiatus and with the generous support of the Mazamas and the Portland Rock Gym we are back for a sixth year: the Portland Ice Festival. We're stepping our game up with TWO nights of fun this year: Friday Oct 12th at the Mazamas come see Colin Haley as he talks about the amazing 2011/12 season in Patagonia. Saturday Oct 13th at the Portland Rock Gym: compete or watch a mixed climbing comp, demo tools, enjoy adult beverages and of course take your chance at winning some sweet schwag from a number of fine sponsors. Hope to see you all there

I propose we discuss Bears in Heat second pitch moves off the anchor instead of YW. Thanks

Check with Braden (posts as downey on here)

Yes we are doing one this year. Colin Haley is doing the slideshow. Details to follow

The Fumes Most Precious Blood Recon Kendrick Lamar

The new version of the Sum'Tec is sweet. That said you can likely score a good deal on the old version of the Sum'Tec as vendors clear out the old style at discount

You'll drink it with no concern but you're worried about spilling it on your gear? :laf:

It's the very first TR I ever wrote on cc.com though it doesn't mention me leaving the crampons. You can find it in the TR engine

I still have the neutrino and nut it was clipped to; I found that on my first time up the pillar. It was Ade's who was previously a mod on here. I believe the windshirt was a seperate thread in which I made an ass of myself... not related to the girth pillar climbs.

My crampons from my first trip up the pillar in 2004 with Ron Kirby. Colin and Jens climbed the pillar the following weekend; Colin originally grabbed the crampons but shortly into the pillar pitches realized why I had left them in the first place and promptly hung them on the nut where they still remain it appears.

Couldn't agree more. My first time up the pillar I did the drop over; the second time up the ice cliff. Such a great route. Nice work team

Crushing. Route and write up. Well done duders

BUMP. I'm in Portland and looking for a week night PRG partner. Would love to climb tonight

You should be climbing it today! It's splitter!

+1 And it doesnt freeze shut as easily

I used a Speed 55 this past spring in AK and was pleasantly surprised. It's a little heavy stock but strips down nicely for alpine. A great choice considering the price IMO

"This is what you want, but this is what you get" Does anyone really, truly believe they are 100% in control? Don't dilute yourself.

Friday morning what time? 7? 6? Thanks

John!!! I'm calling you from 17k to see if my tent is going to be blown off the mountain :laf: So stoked for you all dudes! Crazy to think you made your first AK trip in 2009. Onward!

Given the wet, cold spring the NW had this year I suspect this would be an excellent year for Curtis Ridge... or at least for the next few weeks before the rock bands melt out too much. Assuming the long range WX forecast holds I'd consider getting on it as soon as next weekend.

[video:vimeo]12844053

http://www.supertopo.com/packs/alaska.html