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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. The correct spelling Steve, as we saw on the slide during the show, was "CLOD ONE". I was wondering if that was just Ricky helping put it together and being a crack up like he always is, or a genuine accidental spelling error. [img:CENTER]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/Starv8.jpg[/img]
  2. billcoe

    Flip/flop

    This burden you shoulder must be immense. "CUSE ME MASSA WHY I SING ME A SIRUTUAL...NOOOOBODDDYY NOES DA TRUBBLE I SEEN, NOOOBBODDY NOES MY SORROWSSSS............"
  3. Why is that illegal, Bill? Huh? I'm confused, I thought we were playing the "guess the Donald's big story he's going to break Wednesday" game. That's my guess. Maybe he's going to announce that he's filing for bankruptcy for the 5th time and blaming rogue Kenyans? Is that Illegal? But that's not my guess. Maybe he's going to start going with an Obamafro instead of the common red-tailed Squirrel look for hairstyle. Maybe he's going to out an actual squirrel that's been sleeping on top of his head for 12 years! Not sure that would qualify as a big story though. But that's not my guess either. What was your guess Jon?
  4. Is someone a legal citizen of Indonesia? Hmmmm? Not a citizen of the world, but just a dual citizen?
  5. Lots on interesting things being found these days. Guy I works with son in law to be recently discovered some planet. For myself, I thought that the Mars project is fishing out some astounding things as well....dry river beds, warmer than expected temps, mystery spheres...Woot!
  6. Sunrise is when the sun comes up buttercup. Rainer.
  7. I think what they are saying is to just slip a rat-tail file in yer chalkbag next to yer toothbrush fer brushing chalk and when you come across this hanging there: Clip the upper biner and hit the lower one with yer rat-tail file till it's smooth.
  8. LOL. You're welcome. BTW, I'd been told that the pinnacle was over 100' tall which served to suck me in quite readily. My first words as we came around the corner up from Jones creek were: "Where's the rest of it". LOL I did go back once. Had part of a day and drug Gent Mendes (awesome guy to hang out with) back up there and we did this west side route. Note that the bouldering over towards where your photo was taken is reportedly quite good. Tymon blogs about it all the time. I've never shot or climbed over there, but both are evidently quite popular.
  9. You're welcome for the support.
  10. I didn't make it this year, is Ivan going to post a trip report so us armchair slackers can see what the real climbers are up too? Hope all had a good time!
  11. There is one question I'd have, has anyone here beside Raindawg have a PhD and written a book on Archeology and the Bible? Oh? You have? Crap. Well, lets rephrase. Anyone besides Dawg written a good book on Archeology as it relates to the Bible (maybe the reverse) and acts like a used douchnozzel? Didn't think so. ha ha! Which is odd that he doesn't help this religious discourse along but displays his persecution complex instead. He's one of the few people who seems capable of starting out butt-hurt and working backwards off of that to a level of self-righteous butt-hurt sanctimoniousness and anger not seen this side of a pulpit often. (/gratuitous slap at religion to keep the thread on topic) ps, Don, your book was rather well done, researched and engaging. It's definitely a side no one here sees of you on this site. Thanks! Off White, all that was needed to complete that picture is that the kid had on a "KARMA IS A BITCH" T-shirt. LOL
  12. Good advise up thread. I was on a rescue years back. Rode up with the sheriff and we woke up my buddy Mike at o dark thirty cause he was the only other known climber on the Mt. Mike had done a solo lap up Steele cliffs (Mount Hood) same day as dude but he knew the storm was a coming so he was boogying and got back in time. Mike had seen dude coming up as he was going down and described what he knew of location and equipment to us. When we got there the weather was so bad that us rescuers could barely stand up. In the parking lot. I was wondering if we might lose a rescuer or 2 it was that bad. Kept tied in together to keep from blowing away. We hung out for 5 days looking for the guy. It was butt-assed cold too, I think it was February. They called it off as the weather started clearing figuring he was a gonner buried under 3 feet of fresh snow and all the rescuers and sheriffs went home. Cept for me an another guy. I use to like it up there and took to hanging out in my free time at odd places on the Mt. So I figured I'd just stay and eventually find a ride home. I'm scratching my ass waking up slow and figuring I'll grab my axe and do a late start lap in the good weather but keep my eyes open for the body when right then the dude, alive, pops into the hut. Dude was a rich Californian skiier who didn't know shit about the mountains. He was smart enough to have a shovel and had dug a snow cave and he survived the horrible conditions somewhat protected, inside of it. He had top shelf expensive gear and in fact, a pair of plastic boots. When I saw him I just figured that he was gonna get some toes chopped. I've seen that happen before, frostbite comes easy in those conditions. The medics peeled off his new plastic boots and his feet looked like blanched white wrinkled prunes... NO frostbite. I asked him what he did for his feet (I was thinking along the lines of "Oh I put on the down booties I have stuffed in the bottom of my pack:-)" Nope, dude said he'd been wearing the plastic boots all week, didn't take them off once. I had him repeat that part LOL. I became a plastic boot believer for big mountains. So what that means to you is that you'll probably have to do what everyone else is doing, just buy multiple shoes/boots for different types of climbing. As noted above, fit is everything no matter what you get.
  13. I don't know where kids learn this stuff today.
  14. Ditto on what Wayne said. The picture on the book was classic. I remember thinking, "I HAVE to do that route, and being surprised to learn it was only 5.7...but a damned serious one at that if such can be said of a 5.7. Sorry to hear it was cancer. Soon, all too soon, we too must all follow Nick into the void..... at least he cut enough of a swath while he was with us here to be remembered. (pretty much what Ivan said there) RIP Nick.
  15. Whoa, I did a lap Friday and saw a Preying Mantis walking right up the rock while I was belaying my buddy up the 4th pitch of Young Warriors. Had not seen a Mantis for years. Didn't know they could type. As far as the article goes, There has been a deep drought in the US this year. Yet I've seen Costco smoked salmon prices go from $9.99 to 16.99 in the same period (same brand, same size), and there doesn't seem to be any drought in the ocean. Food and gas have gone up in price across the board with few exceptions. Fortunately, inflation as the gov't measures it is nowhere to be seen.[/satirical final comment]
  16. Anyone looking for a little outside conditioning? Trail building and trail work opportunities in WA. - PDXers, note first Cape Horn date is full already:-) Slots available for later. http://www.wta.org/volunteer/trail-work-parties
  17. billcoe

    A Vast Conspiracy!

    You afraid to post the list? http://thinkprogress.org/politics/2012/10/04/958801/at-last-nights-debate-romney-told-27-myths-in-38-minutes/?mobile=nc
  18. Jeff and I just got off the Crusin, Corner, Young Warriors link up. mmmmm good stuff. The fall nip was in the air and it was perfect in the sun. Felt like a high gravity day but still hella fun, maybe the wind gusts to 25-30 mph going sideways which made hanging onto the crux's of YW a tad difficult can be blamed this time instead the the usual: Age, sick, tired, shoulders killing me. Shoulders have been iced and ibuprofened.
  19. I enjoyed watching it, thought both men reprezented well (despite what the press keeps saying about a clear Romney win). Glad I tuned in.
  20. Cilogear, local, made in PDX, work class kit. You can walk right in there and talk to Graham. Once you get over the price tag and own a Cilogear, you'll forget the cost and enjoy it every time you take it out. Seriously. Damned thing will last a long time, if you amortise the enjoyment you get from having a topnotch piece of gear over the life span, it's a real sweet ratio. When I was younger I'd by cheaper stuff. Unfortunately, it later becomes and impediment to buying good stuff. (ie, well, I don't really like that item, but already own one so I don't need 2 now). Ciologear soloing the Old Witch on the FA. (got the rope stuffed inside of it, the top pops on and off) Same gear last weekend hiking with Sadie-May the Trailer Park Flosie at Angels Rest in the Gorge.
  21. Don't know whos winning the debate, but looks like an awesome route - thanks for sharing the link Bob. It looks like a 3rd party is doing the write up, and they simply might have meant to say "Ground up", instead of "onsight".
  22. Big X I'd bet. Cover the whole rock? LOL. Like, how would you get the X big enough to cover everything in this shot?
  23. billcoe

    Coexist

    See if this is more palatable to ya, same word, different symbols: Pic them up at Stoner Arms. This one as well:
  24. Summation: Short rope, long route, no knot. http://davemacleod.blogspot.ca/2012/10/end-of-line-for-short-while.html Reminiscent of Lynn Hills accident, as in world class climber reminding us all once again..... like we need to hear it....
  25. billcoe

    Blackwater

    https://www.nationalreview.com/nrd/articles/328692/losing-iraq?pg=1 Been a pretty good discussion upthread 5 years back or so of the mistakes and bungling the Bush crew made. It really saddens me to see that: A) We went in there to begin with. B) Went in totally half assed. C) Our exit, under our "glorious leader" Obama, was as bad of a misstep as anything which went before. We took our eyes off the prize and it cost us. If you look up "Epic Fail" in the urban dictionary it should list this debacle as the example. Lastly, and this is related, congrats to President Obama for bumping the CAFE standards (2nd time, I gave kudos the first time as well which was right after he was elected). It shows a marked and radical difference in the lack of intelligence and thought Romney would bring to this issue of energy independence as he's opposed to the standards. Barring a full-on energy policy review by experts in that field (which has needed to occur for the last several Presidencies), what Obama did is good for the country, what Romney would do could, and most likely would be, ruinous. I'm done with both parties. I've voting Gary Johnson. We need to get the US budget under control #1 issue. Neither one of the 2 current candidates, Romney nor Obama, have given it more than a passing mention. The deficit has gone from 4 trillion under the cut taxes and spend Bush to over 16 trillion dollars under the cut taxes and spend President Obama. They both have a "Don't ask don't tell" or give any kind of a shit attitude on what is the most pressing issue of our time. That we just pissed 1 trillion bucks or more down the sink in Iraq to become less safe militarily is small consolation that it was a "bi-partisan" effort which we can thank most of the congressmen and senators, along with Bush and Obama. BTW, each of you, if you are paying taxes, owes and average of $140,000 in back taxes. You haven't seen the bill come in the mail yet, but that's what is is. Still growing daily as well. The longer we wait, the worse it will be, and it could be real bad right now, as no one seems to have any control over the debt. Furthermore, no one has to divulge how much money the Fed, a group of private banks, are making to finance this debt. Right now, they are doing the job. Their charter with the US government allows them a 5% profit. Did we really just have to pay them $10,800,000,000,000 to play charades with our money and enable the further indebtedness of the country? Snipits of link: "Trillion dollars here, Trillion dollars there, pretty soon it adds up to real money." LOL (Thanks for that Senator Dirkson)
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