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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. Are you talking close to straight up or the stepping down and right before heading up past 4 bolts. Curious which and what you folks thought the rating wuz.
  2. You are. Hope that helps. Ivan, you have some of the most righteous sayings and interesting pictures in your climbing posts. Please, for those of us who pop in here and appreciate seeing climbing content, continue. And thanks for the vicarious high:-)
  3. Speaking only for myself, although I don't get around crowds much, I do know lots of folks with kids of all ages and get invited out with them on occasion. It's usually a real pleasure to be around them. 95% of the time they are so happy and upbeat it just makes your heart happy and your face smile. Doesn't seem to matter if they are outclimbing me :-), playing grabass with each other, or sitting on the ground playing with toy soldiers. I appreciate your attitude of watching out for cranky adults though:-) - good parenting. Right on Rudy! My best to you and yours, and add my congrats to Drew too!
  4. billcoe

    friday friday

    I'm with Bob (worked yesterday), this thread got dated in a single day.
  5. It is not the Forest Services job Kirk, nor would we as climbers want them to be in charge of advisories and such, they could just as easily shut it down after a couple of lawsuits for giving incorrect info when the weather changes and causes a death. The FS should just stay the hell away. Charging money to walk on your own damned mt. is wrong IMO and they should not be doing that. Right on, sounds like you might have gotten the view of the crater and the surrounding environs at least.
  6. ....and she had the smarts and good sense to drop out of a filthy rich vaginal tract too, ensuring a life of ease, unlike most of us. If you could stop worrying over mammon and just climb, you'd finally be a 5.10 climber in no time.
  7. billcoe

    06/06/06

    Update: Slayer no longer exists outside of cd's, spider kills lead guitarist Jeff Hanneman. (Allegedly). Sorry Kevbone and other lovers of this terrible music. http://news.yahoo.com/slayer-guitarist-jeff-hanneman-dies-49-010947594.html
  8. Thanks for the heads up Bob. The fast corrosion issues could be that they are not passivising them as well. Regardless, good stuff to avoid, even though the price is soooooo nice. Here's the thread on that hanger. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2624440;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;page=unread#unread Climb X responded: Saw this report over there, Petzl biner breaking. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=2622082;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
  9. My brother was a 1/2 hour from the finish line. He ran a 5K last night which took some of the starch out of him I think, if he hadn't done that he very well may have been standing there wheezing or walking off.
  10. THIS? [video:youtube]
  11. Damn....we've borrowed so much more by now it's almost ridiculous. Wonder what we've been spending all that money we've been borrowing from the Fed on to support those "essential government services". Oh, here ya go. Spying on the occupy kids and free speech protestors. Your tax dollars, plus another 40% borrowed to make up the shortfall, at work. Think of it as an "investment" in the future. http://rt.com/usa/peaceful-demonstrators-spying-security-250/
  12. billcoe

    Free Ebook

    Downloaded and perused the start and it looks like pretty good stuff. Thanks Jon!!
  13. billcoe

    SEAGAL!

    At least they saved they birds. Wait.... Whoh. Where's the bar-b-que going to be? Nevermind, looks like from the photo Rob posted, Seagal ate most of them already.
  14. Bonus points to Drew. But the rest of you ladies get a little touchy when someone criticizes your fella for offing a few unarmed citiznes who he claimed needed to be snuffed ....just because they needed it.....We don't need no stinking constitution, we have perfection and bliss hah hah! I have no love for Chavez or Sean Penn either, I was only noting that Chavez didn't have a program to murder his citizens for criticizing the country like our President does. (or at least Obama claims he does this service for us weekly by evaluating the next drone strike targets) Damn touchy group here LOL. BTW, douchbag for sure in this country, but how many times was Hugo elected by popular vote? I thought dictators didn't keep running in fair and open elections where everyone voted. One mans twisted opinion: http://venezuelanalysis.com/analysis/5966 and some more info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human_rights_in_Venezuela
  15. I dibs King Abdullah of Saudia Arabia as the 1'st dictator to check out, by a nose. Possible replacement below. Chavez was voted into an office titled "President", and has not killed any of his citizens. Which makes him a President and not a dictator. If he were to order the summary executions of some of them I could see changing that title. Would you call him Dictator if he was murdering his citizens without trial? Hmmmm Now here's a "President" that has personally ordered the summary executions without trial or due process of 4 of his citizens so far that we know of. LONG MAY THE GREAT MAN LIVE!! (they have hired people to monitor this kind of post) DISARM THE PEOPLE!!! THEY HAVE NOTHING TO FEAR AND NO NEED FOR WEAPONRY!!
  16. billcoe

    WTF?

    Holy crap, classic Portland:-). Damn that's funny stuff Oly. I can see folks getting yoinked about everyone asking for money for every little thing that they want to do but don't want to give up morning mochas to save the $ up for, but if you don't want to donate, don't. Simple. Let it go.... let it go.....(insert cleansing breath here:-) .....
  17. If anyone knows Alpinefox, nudge him awake to look at this soon. Auction closes in @11 hours. I have to put this long shot out there. Most likely not his gear, but I remember when I had my tools stolen out of my locked canopy on my truck, I forgot to list a bunch of stuff with my insurance folks.....and realized it the first time I needed my tape measure:-) It doesn't match up exactly, but it's been 4 or 5 years. Has the requisite Red Tape and red fingernail polish and the person admittedly doesn't know gear. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ICE-CLIMBING-LARGE-LOT-Screws-Cams-Carabiners-Black-Diamond-Trango-Petzyl-ROCK-/251231169558?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7e8b6c16 Says: Bunch of photos, I'll post 2. Note red fingernail polish on the Red Metolius cam? [img:left]http://img2.iwascoding.com/0/2013/02/18/6E/541357A07E214A48A480F1B204E1629D.jpg[/img] and another one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ICE-ROCK-CLIMBING-Med-LOT-Wedges-Floats-Cams-Carabiners-Alein-Yates-USHBA-B-D-/290868019758?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b915c22e Titled More of the same. But you don't mention having any ice tools lifted. This guy has 3 Grivels for sale. http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRIVEL-CLIMBING-PAIR-ICE-AXES-Shovel-Hammer-Cascade-Italy-Steel-Head-20x10-/290865738559?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b8f2f33f
  18. I may have to revise what I said upthread. I just bought a Yates Kong backup. Had it out the other day for some semi wet and dirty toproping and it kicked ass. Exclusion that they say it will work on a 13mm rope, I had a 12.3mm static and that was too large for smooth, hands off, feeding. On a 10.5 dynamic it was so smooth running up the rope that it was scary. Seems to lock up great too although I was too chickenshit to fall on it and grabbed the rope and cinched it to set it before hanging on the rope to clean some blackberry bushes out. That it will take a Fall factor 2 without chopping the rope didn't much ease my mind as it was new, and plenty of people have been dropped with partners using the "Failsafe" Gri gri and Cinchs. Soloing is much more gear intensive. So I had backup knots, but can see that it may be the best device for rope solo. Leading possibly, toproping certainly. BTW, I own the Grigri, Grigri 2, Cinch, Soloist and a Silent Partner (otherwise best for TR with the exclusion that overhangs and possibly weird body position traverses are out of the question as the device won't lock on an inverted fall), so I've had some experience in hating various equipment:-) It's an industrial safety device they show rigged to the back of a harness on the D ring. Putting it in front off the belay loop seemed to transition well for the thing. The slide knob on the left in the photo is utilized to tighten it up on the rope. One position it rolls up and down freely although you have to grab it and keep it positioned correctly. When you do this: ps, in my mind, the Cinch would have the greatest possibility to put you on the dirt and it would be the worse of all the devices. I'd rather just go old school and use a clove hitch if aid soloing or put a jumar on the rope. There is a good discussion on Supertopo on how the hard core Yosemite guys do TR soloing you might look up. They effectively use 2 Mini Trax's in line.
  19. You have totally captured the essence of the guy Dave. BTW, Dave is one of the nicest folks I've had the pleasure to hang with, so it's a hell of a burr under that saddle to get him riled up. I don't know why the PM's (mentioned upthread) when you can just put it right here. That hilarious and yet trainwreck like U-Tube of the little girls first car, parents buy her something like a Lexus for her 16th birthday and she goes off wailing and screaming at her parents that "ITS THE WRONG COLOR WHAAHHHHHH", is close to the guys mindset. No matter the topic, same gig. Kind of hoping that he either grows up or stops drinking...or whatever his mental problem is, that it gets fixed. Kind of given up hope on that I suppose.... Only bumped into Pat once in a public setting and he seemed pretty funny then. HOPE AND CHANGE BABY!!!
  20. billcoe

    Gun Control

    From Cristian Science monitor article By Eric Talmadge, Associated Press / January 28, 2013 Interesting story here discussing the 2003 Brazilian "Disarmament Statute" as they call it. The short version, just like in the US where we attribute declining crime rates to increased gun ownership, in Brazil, declining gun ownership tied to declining crime is most likely a demographic issue. http://www.comunidadesegura.org/en/story-enforcing-brazils-gun-law-eight-years-later Next up. Oh oh, looks like someone fell off the wagon and is slurring their words midday again.
  21. KICK ASS BOYZ!!!
  22. Sorry to hear of your fathers passing Steve. Tough to see your dad get old and check out. Wishing you well.
  23. billcoe

    Gun Control

    Sure. The last time when I hiked up to Bagby Hot Springs met a guy carrying. I don't carry, didn't even have a pocket knife (I usually might only have 1 of the ten essentials, but it rotates which one it is) and will admit that it made me nervous till I had edged up on the guy close enough for comfort and stuck up a conversation and soon realized that other than the cowboy looking gun he had on his hip, he sounded and looked normal.
  24. billcoe

    Gun Control

    They were able to all but ban guns in Brazil via strict regs and requirements. Not gun violence though. Just the guns. Turns out, and I know this will shock the shit out of some of you, that criminals don't follow the law. So while you think banning guns here will do anything, it won't. Stupid gun accidents, crimes and suicides will decrease from honest people, but criminals will pick up the slack. End result, you will be less secure. Politicians will continue to amass power and we will have given up incrementally more. Look at Brazil or Mexico. Look at the laws they have passed and the net result. Too many douchbags that don't give a f**k about others. Mexico has strict gun laws. They've been able to disarm the honest people. Yet Mexico has enshrined rights in their constitution just like the US. Here are some of their gun "restrictions" which serve to keep guns in the hands of police, criminals and military....which are all sort of interchangeable there. Net effect is that dishonest politicians and dishonest police and army folks are out of control. They'll sell guns to criminals and report them stolen. One way to make a buck. Or they prey on civis and kidnap their children to pick up a few extra bucks. Gun violence is shitloads worse in Brazil where the gun restrictions are much more strict. Of course, the crooks don't give a shit. Never happen here. Right? Easy to overlook the facts you don't choose to believe I guess. You want to do something, start working on civics lessons in grade school. Not joking. It's a slow process. The founders wanted to convey something with the bill of rights...consider this. Most politicians want and seek power. Regular people do not (in the way that politicians go for it at least). That's what the 2nd amendment addresses. Who do you trust more? For me, I trust my family and friends more than power seeking politicians. They've been able to ignore tenants of long held and established laws elsewhere. Our President chooses who will live and die weekly in drone strikes. (this is his own words) How many Americans have been killed without trials? How many were only speaking their minds? Al-Alawaki claimed to only be a shit talking un-armed Non-combatant. The President agreed and announced his death sentence publicly. The guys dad took it to federal court to get the Presidential Fatwa overturned or at least examined where it was tossed because the Presidential Fatwa wasn't against him (ie dad had no legal standing). So they snuffed him. No due process. Snuffed him for violating their interpretation of the 1st Amendment. Then 2 weeks later they killed his 16 year old son although one of the Obama administration people said that the execution of the son was due to bad parenting. Any of you want to explain or discuss that? Didn't think so. Of course, fortunately, our President is a "constitutional scholar" is smart and would never make a mistake. These un-armed miscreants clearly needed to be killed without due process. Right? Maybe free speech ain't so free anymore? Anyone wonder what Washington, Jefferson or Madison would say about the killing of citizens without trials for shit talkin'? Was King George even killing people without trials because of things that they said? The thought coming out of Washington is that the 1st amendment is teetering our way so lets go after the next one now. Maybe we should start calling it the "Bill of Things we'd like to see if our betters will let us have them" or "Bill of some things that would be Nice to Have" instead of the Bill of Rights. [/daily rant] Take care all.
  25. Wonder if this is a true story. It's got to be bullshit, I don't think I believe it. Of course, they say he's a criminal and a crazy F?, maybe it's true. Maybe he should just be locked up. http://www.presstv.ir/ or direct http://www.presstv.ir/detail/2013/02/04/287235/fbi-stops-malcolm-x-grandson-trip-to-iran/ Maybe they are using the outdated "Don't ask don't tell policy " to bury dudes in obscure prisons. What would the charge be? Flying while black? "We had to keep the Shit(e) out of da plane, boss? Anyway, "it's off to Guantanamo for the lad for an all expense paid trip by you, Mr and Mrs Taxpayer." I understand that the food is great and the beaches warm and fun. The department of homeland security spending is going through the roof, "UNLIMITED TAXPAYER MONEY!!!! WOOT!!!! Send the rest of the Shites over", they say. Keep hope alive. Perhaps Mr Shabbazz needs to get on the "new hope and change" America bus or get shipped off to prison. Well, I mean, accept the "hope and change" mantra to get out of prison. Clearly the first Amendment has it's limits, as Anwar Al-Awaki learned much too late. ANWAR DONE INSPIRING LINK Anwar, these days we'll just kill you for what we perceive as yelling "FIRE" in a crowded theater. It's legal now to do so and the President evaluates malcontents weekly. He'll get around to Pat soon enough I suppose. They are thinking: "We've expanded the first amendment restrictions to don't say anything negative about us." As long as you don't say a bad word why would you care about the new restrictions? Right? So don't be trash talking the man. In fact, publishing this post should get me on the list as well. Too fucking bad I guess. Maybe I'll get Shabazz as a roommate. He can do a Chris Rock imitation and I can be either Stan Laurel or Hardy. Except maybe I'll get Pat as a roommate, my version of Dantes hell. Keep hope alive. pfft, can't be true, they probably arrested Chris Rock. Keep hope alive. Oh, check out the comments too. LOL. And you thought some of you all were nasty bitches? Wow!
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