billcoe

Are you suggesting that we cave on sanctions because the Iranian government wants a bomb more than they want Pharmaceuticals? From your link inc. misspellings: Let me see, Iran just hosted the 120 nation non-aligned countries in Iran, including the UN chair and they forgot to ask anyone for these critical medicines? What genocide? You want to see real genocide, let them have a few bombs. They hate "zionists" (ie, jews in Israel), and want them all to just swim peacefully into the med. Won't happen. The pacifistic Jews in Europe were generally killed, and what is left are more warriors as a percentage who don't feel that some asswipes can just kill them just because they feel like it for no reason. If someone has to die, it won't be them.

wON'T TH EFORMATTING GO NORMAL ON TH ENEXT PAGE? aNYONE WANT TO GO FOR THE PAGETOP AND SEE IF IT GOES ALL NORMAL FORMATING? oPPS. cAPS LOCK ON! WOOT! PS, EATTING IT IS AN INTERESTING THOUGHT WE SHOULD DO SOME ANIMAL TESTING. OMG, I PUT IN "DOG EATTING VASOLINE" AND GET STEPAHAN MARLBURY TH EBALL PlAYER NOSHIN THE GREASE: HERE'S SOME NBA PRO INSPIRATION FER YA OLY! http://www.tmz.com/2009/07/27/stephon-marbury-eats-vaseline-oprah-video/ ps, if it isn't clear or obvious yet, I have no idea what to do to mitigate the burn.........

HELLO, PLEASE TO BE TRYING 2 NEW THINGS GOOD LUCK I SUGGEST THE LARGE SIZE FOR YOU SORRY BUT LARGE SIZE IS LARGE PICTURE TOO!

Meh. The old guy noted that (cause his shoes are already slippery I'd imagine.) Then he sat to cleaning it up. It's mostly cleaned off. I use to bring a can of Smoked Oysters packed in oil for snow caves or winter ascents so that I could first eat the stuff but then use the empty can for a candle holder after burning the oil for light if I wasn't hungry. The can acts as both a wind shield if you prop it up, a reflector (so you get more light), and a drip catcher if you don't have dripless candles. Up on Beacon it might also act to shield the direct light a bit from prying eyes below. Good night to be sleeping out I'd bet.

General note: I think we can all have this discourse without the swear words at each other. My opinions only to follow. Next, to address Bills point: I disagree in general terms. My thoughts are that we have little solid rock to climb in this area especially when Beacon closes for most of the best part of the climbing season. People should share their cliff discovery's with the bros for several huge reasons: 1st) It spreads out the climbers a bit more. 2nd) It helps keep cliffs and routes clean. Everyone knows I've done a lot of bolted routes last couple years, but I didn't do those for me but for the rest of the community. I happen to have the time and extra money to do it and do it right. I personally like climbing cracks. So on cracks (or any route in this area I suppose) if no one climbs them they literally turn to shit. Beacon, for instance, has the best cracks and gets more laps and climber action than most other spots but it still gets overgrown during the closure. Witness the discussion of climbers communicating on CC.com that they will be caretaking and literally chiseling roots out of cracks and protection spots a specific Beacon route which became overgrown and too dirty to get up. Pete's Pile never was in a guidebook and every damned year I'd go up there I wind up cleaning dirt off perfect splitter cracks. Bravo that it's finally in the guidebook. Routes which don't get climbed soon become unclimbable. 3rd) It's nice to share. We like it when folks share with us and we should reciprocate. We should treat each other the way we want to be treated ourselves. New places and new discovers are fun, they are few and far apart and should be shared cause it's the right thing to do. You're not holding out on us with your own Private Idaho cliff? Lastly: Nope Nate. You're wrong. Go do the route then check back in with your opinion. Really.

If it's yours any chance you can clean up all the candle wax that got left behind:-) Little slick in those spots.

LOL. I won't tell you when that discussion should occur but it surprised me when it came. My own kid knew a hell of a lot more than me when I finally got around to it. My answer to my daughter would be: climbed first with no bolts and you can plan on the "protection" failing should you use it:-) Didn't see you out there DD. Did a lap up the corner with Jim and Amit, a new guy.

Well spoken Don. It's always been local (crag) ethics and tradition, with a nod to the dude or dudette who climbed it first, trump all. This can clearly be seen as differentiated at Yosemite (attempt to climb with as little bolts as the FA can get away with) and Smith Rocks (which has runout routes and closely bolted face climbs depending on who FA'ed it mixed in with some sweet gear only cracks). TRADition can include HOW it's bolted as well. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=492354&tn=0&mr=0

LOL here too. Took a while, see the tracks wuz laid down almost a month back! Woot!

Damn, that's a story! We should have a contest to count the remaining loose refrigerator blocks in your picture:-) Your photo reminds me a lot of the East Side of Beacon. I have a pretty good Steve Strauch near death moment story about Danny Gates and him climbing on those East face blocks out there. Not as near death but pretty dramatic with a long 30 foot runout over the overhang, unable to stop and put in pro, not that there was any, then a long screamer fall due a block popping. A single knifeblade driven up into some blocks the only remaining thing keeping Steve swinging in space and from death in the dirt below. It's the reason I've always avoided that face. With one exception in the 80's where the siren song lured me in. How do you get to Yrnameer Crag?

LOL. You're still climbing hard but most importantly raising a family Bryan: few things in life are as much of a priority or as rewarding as that IMO. Congrats.

Choss R Us. What Bryan says is true but there are solid sections. Real real solid. But there's some real real loose sections too:-) P2 of Jimmies Favorite. I bet you'd like this route Bryan until it heads into the gaping maw, it's pretty sweet crimping on a buttress with solid bolts. You could do a real hard version which went straight up where I'm going left. The rock is perfect up there. I think this may be Shaun on Conga Line Kyle and Shaun after a Conga Line lap Jeff Thomas on the Conga cut off, you can see how solid it is right here. Theres probably 10 real fun bolted routes waiting to be put up there on the lower apron below that top picture.

Looks like a "Supersweet©" (LOL) collection of routes. Thanks for putting it out there.

Yup! ....although point in fact I did drop him off at Beacon after we were done....

Nice call Tiimtraveler. However, Jim has forsaken the Beaconwand for Washingtons newest climbing area. Photographic bolt clipping proof. Jimmy on Jimmies Favorite P1 at Jimmies yesterday. LOL!

Looks like crowds wouldn't slow you down either..... ..........does it come with a hockey mask?

Went up Saturday and free soloed up then bolted the slab approach (pitch one) of Jimmies Favorite. Now instead of a tense X rated but easier climb, its a fun climb that just dances since you don't feel like if you make a mistake you die. Anyone wants to do it in the original style can not clip the bolts. There is a great deal of sweet looking routes off to the right of that which would be cleaned and done. Maybe 10 new routes. And that is just the easy slab at the start, there is some longer solid looking lines there which have not seen a climbing boot footprint yet. Sunday Jim Opdycke and I went up again, here's a photo of Jim leading it, and as he came down he cleaned it off. Looks a lot better. Anyone interested in an update, talk to Jim. He went form being sour to being stoked about the potential. Looks way different after this shot was taken.

Not sure of the question. Congrats on still being alive though! Woot!

This thread needs a gratuitous wonder dawg picture. The specific ergonomic issue we as climbers see which a construction dude rarely cares about is the length as measured form the trigger to the business end of the drill. In this case I was drilling anchors from a comfortable ledge and did not care that I had a 10" bit as I was drilling a 7" hole. From this view: that length matters: (PS, the Baby Dawg is the small one, the pics are of the Lil Dawg - which isn't little, and is the larger of the 2 drills and weights just under 10 lbs.)

I have been watching the thread to see what folks were saying. I was waiting for a side by side, but maybe it's time to pitch a few things out. 1st, lets use model numbers. I think that the Makita we are discussing is Model: BHR202 ? If that's correct, maybe it's not something you will want Rudy. Ergonomically, the 2 things we as climbers need is compact design and light weight. Compact as I'm using the term being shorter: the distance between the drill bit and the trigger. Think of a hand drill you checked a 12" bit in, vs the same hand drill you chuck a 6" bit in. The 12" long bit will throw you off balance. Even rappel bolting with a power rotohammer this can be an issue if you don't situate your body right or slightly overshoot the mark. So for your boy Rudy, it will be something to consider. So a measurement of the Makita from the trigger to the end sans bit would help this discourse. But here's the overall length to start with. Makita: 14 1/8 Bosch: 11536C-1 or 2 = 12 1/4 Bosch for the win. Next, as far as light weight goes. A bit surprising to me that the 18V bhr202 is going at 7.7lbs...they say. http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=26664 Like Slabhappy, I own the Bosch 11536c (code named baby Dawg for Raindawg). It comes in at 6lbs partially via a smaller battery and clocks in at 6.25 lbs before I peel off the side handle. http://www.cpotools.com/bosch-11536c-2-36v-cordless-lithium-ion-compact-sds-plus-rotary-hammer/bshn11536c-2,default,pd.html?start=1&cgid=bosch-cordless-rotary-and-demolition-hammers . I have 3 batteries total as I got 2 of the larger ones with the larger drill (Bosch #11536VSR which I've code named Lil Dawg after you know who shall not be named). I often take just the small battery with the small drill and find it works plenty fine. I've also pulled off the side handle to lighten it, finding that it never binds and there is no need for it. The larger Bosch I've kept it on, as it often is drilling deeper and bigger holes and want to avoid binding the bit. Makita: 7.7 lbs Bosch : 6.25 (with Litheon™ 36V SlimPack Batteries) Bosch 11536C for the win again. Like to see head to head drilling. However, what I have seen in others testing is that the Bosch products are faster than anyone elses stuff. Not just anyone's, but everyone's. The sole exclusion is a single Supertopo thread where the guy was saying that the Makita was drilling into his local rock and the Bosch would not.

Temps will be perfect this weekend.

I think I've done that line. Squamish ...? May have been wearing the EBs, it was nuts for me too. Good times. Schweet photo. If it's 5 min from your house you don't need to come to Beacon rock to get yer stoke on.

Oh, and here is a photo of Ujahn following me on Lost Warriors, which someone...won't say who....they did the FA though I will add....really needs to work on cleaning better. Got to spend the weekend with Ujahn and his wife at the coast and we got some bouldering (and Kayaking) in while the wives watched down by Oceansides. Good times. CAMERA TILT, CAMERA TILT!!!!! One handed snapshot. Sorry. And now, I will go home and drink some wine. Feel free to join me counselor, your company is always warm and welcome.

This stuff is in an endless loop that essentially has not changed for 7 years. If you want to see someones position, all a person has to to is just do a search and there are 20 posts identical to the last one which all state the persons same thing but have different dates. All that is left is personal attacks and acrimony. Young Adam (and LCK) are still taking a shot being involved and trying to achieve something, feel free to help him/them, but posting here won't do anything positive IMO. So if anyone is interested best to contact him directly. I'll take a shot at this one too: you own the site and get sick and tired of real climbers bitching to you via PMs about the various slander and antagonistic BS that is playing out in a nightmarish climbing version of ground hog day by various assholes (Jons view) on the Beacon forum. Hope that clarifies Jons position. He may wish to fine tune it, but I suspect I am guessing the basics. Like hell, take it like a man, full on in the beacon forum. LOL! You're welcome Geoff.

Outted in last guidebook book. 5 miles north of Beacon Rock. Needs more routes. Get sum. http://mountainproject.com/v/jimmies-twilight-zone/107747839