billcoe

Thanks Oly, my point but better spoken. ^^ Here ya go Drew. ^^ xoxo

First come first served.

Life is an eyeblink. xoxo all.

Way to beat the heat dudes and get a classic bagged. Another great write up Ivan. Pat, what happened to the Rope Bucket? (ie, picture was titled: "Our ill-fated rope bucket, P 7" )

(going with the theme here)...Perhaps he has no nuts?

Way to get it done Wayne! You guys look like you got a superb high mileage/high value trip in. Awesome. Running sierra laps at altitude? How many pitches of vertical was that?

Rough spray there dude. So .... are you saying it's not OK to marry ones own mother to get the tax break? edited to add: I always wondered why Mormon men could NOT legally marry multiple women. (the great compromise for Utah to become a state). It seemed like a clear cut case of the state unnecessarily getting involved in someones religion to me. Who cares as long as all parties concerned are doing it voluntarily? In my mind, as long as you don't dump 30 kids on the states welfare rolls or ask me for an extra tax break cause you are married to many women, I don't care, why should the government be involved in this decision? Clearly someone did or does I suppose, polygamy gets prosecuted and there has been jail time for the same.

One of the features I love is that they don't seem to get stuck. Metolius Supercams seem to be getting stuck all the time for me, where you have to work at getting it out, not the Totems. Great range, great holding power, don't get stuck. What's not to luv? Oh, Price. Shoulder dependent, planning on taking them and the shotguns out tomorrow for the shooting/climbing dual excitement excursion with the pup. Not this pup: This one: Totem cams and Vepr 12's - Woot!

I can't argue against it Bone, everyone should have to suffer equally. The divorce lawyers must be drooling. ps Ivan, do you have a TR in the making?

I missed this thread first go round. Wow, good stuff. (as in informative good) They say that a picture is worth a thousand words. True in this case. Thanks for sharing that.

HOT friggan damn! Great work at it. Badassed and a great write up as a happy finish! Woot! Thanks for sharing it. Really.

@##X$!!! Thieves. Timetraveler: Do you still have the painting for sale? Is it in your Portland store? We have all the paintings of the house down and figure that I can finally go for what I want now:-)

DITTO on the seeing part! The TIME thing was all Ivan, he was kind enough to invite me in for a slice. Good times. I'm not offended at all B! I wuz jus' sayin' is all. Move the bolt so that everyone doesn't get hosed:-) As far as someone freeing it, I'd figured you'd have already done it. But, note that the 4th or 5th pitch, where there is a shit load of loose looking rocks, I'd make sure that you have no one underneath you on the ground. Ivan aided that pitch and I figured I'd just follow him on TR. No excuses here and I'm not sayin that pumping out while pulling out gear set good and deep by a big 6'6" guy leading on aid and not weighting the rope was my issue...cause I have no excuses *cough* age * weak * cough* old pussy* cough* * , but Ivan pointed out that there is a strong temptation to grab the big holds off to the right and told me DON'T DO THAT ! .... Right he was, nice judgement call by the man as they are loose blocks that appear totally unsupported and will lead to death to anyone underneath...so I studiously avoided doing that ....till I finally gave up and pulled on some gear staying on the clean section. The blocks are bigger than a microwave and are the roll model for the stacked cans you see in the grocery store. Pulling out the bottom one will of course be a bad, bad move:-) The bounce from that height may mean you'd land one on a car or the trail...either way, much like an out of control Pachinco machine:-) . And as I was right there doing it I thought, I could just grab those easy looking blocks...and I knew that I'd kill someone....and the other thought was "There a a few folks I know could pull this off without touching them". You were on that list. I'd tough base with Ivan to head up there although he may have run off to get some real climbing now since school is out. I have some "caution tape" I'll give you if you need, and can connect you with a world class belayer (who might not have done the route yet) if Ivan split and you are still interested...but I'm still toast for now. I've been thinking about this route. It should be free now. I hiked a lap via the trail on Monday and saw the brethren at work. I heard "ROCK" up there someplace...so I crack wise in my old man voice "YOU CALL THAT A ROCK, PFTTT ...IN MY DAY.....HRUMP..." Thinking it was both funny AND anonymous as I'm out of sight in the trees and disguising my voice...I hear a long pause from the group up there on the wall.....then..."Bill....?" Which is about when Sadie May the trailer park floozie choose to chase 2 chipmunks into the Poison Oak. I don't have a good photo of it, the stuff below and near him is all solid and good pro, but you can see it starting just above Ivans head in this photo. Maybe pitch 4 or soish. Do it.

bailing off the RNWF after the robbins traverse would be epic, and require leaving pretty much your entire rack. Crap. It's painful just reading your story. Sorry for you dudes...damned. Normally you can keep a watch on the route and pick your time, but not really for this route cause if you IAD it and folks are sleeping at the base, you wouldn't see them even if there was light when you started out, which there probably wasn't. I know guys who ask nicely and just climb past if they get a "No". I've yet to do it, but could see it happening in your case.....Wow. 2 of my buddies were on that route when Jose Perera and Dean Potter came blasting up to link it and the Nose IAD. They were moved back out of the way in the chimneys and had stopped to give them clearance as there wasn't much gear used and they were essentially simu-soloing, but said as Dean and Jose got to below them they just said hi and popped around the corner out of sight to climb an off route crack right past them. As far as getting down, is it still that iffy? Cause you'd wind up on the Direct NW Face wouldn't you, and you'd think that others would have gone your way before. That's just a sucky spot to get stuck up high at night, cause you'll be in cold weather most of the time.

Awesome, spent it with my boy and whole bunches of other family as he was doing the cap and gown and got his college degree. (kid was wearing 5.10ies under the gown) He wanted to get out and do a lap, but my shoulders (torn rotator cuffs) are still in the shit stage and we never effected my older brothers desire to go lap a summit as my mom is 91 and no one wanted to ditch her this year as was traditionally done in the past.

Agreed, but you wind up with that kind of stuff when you are ground up climbing and the thinking is: "Hey, I'm on a hell of a nice stance right here, and a quick glance up...SWEET JESUS! what the hell is that up there?....hmmmmm, you consider, if I launch up and have to try and find a good stance someplace up in the wild wyde blue yonder to put a bolt in up there and if I peel from there it's gonna make ugly seem like a tame word....LOL....." so the bolt goes in at the best spot to drill from and it's the wrong spot later when you soon find out that the wide stuff above wasn't as horrific as it looked from below. Ivan has already invited bolt replacements I'm sure he'd be fine with it as would I on any I put in. ps. I was just kidding about Pinks route getting 13 bolts and someone claiming a FA, he's the sensitive type and I couldn't resist. Surprised he didn't bite though, figured he'd be easier to troll. I need to brush up on me trollin' skillz. I'll try again later. :-)

Unlike some of the mean spirited douchbags on CC.com, some of whom have weighed in on this thread already, Kevin is a good person and has a good heart. If it was me picking and choosing who hung around here, I'd take Kevin any day of the week over some of the overeducated overopinionated no morals or soul shit heads who regularly think that attacking others shows the world that they are smarter than the person they are attacking. Anyone who is smart enough to know better but enjoys publicly and directly belittling others, is a total fuckhead not worth responding to or having a discourse with IMO. Later Kev, have a good time out climbing. Keep heart and remember that at least you're a good person and not a dipshit and a jackass like some of the turds who regularly attack or bait you.

That route is listed in the brand new guidebook as "Crossdressing Fool" 5.10+, 13 bolts. Just got done last year.

I have the same feeling about Playboy, so I can totally relate to the Bone here. Not encouraging Ivan or anyone else to peel cloths off or anything crazy here.....regardless, those bastards at work always stick up the pages of that great mag so you get reduced to reading Gore Vidal or Ulysses by James Joyce. Shit. Oh, what that means Bone, is that you have to read slowly, and re-read for content. At some point it gets easier to catch the meaning and the content depending on how much red wine said artist has imbibed beforehand. Anyway, here's a pic for ya Bone: Tell me whats happin there...... another one - Hishoner hiself in full on klusterfuchage modeality. Jus belay me bitch. Heard this once, thought it was pretty funny: "Jus do your 60 meters and STFU." We might need to add, AND POST SOME FRIKKAN PICS TOO!!!!!!Bad to the Bone.....BBBUUUUUBBBBUUUUBADDDDDDDD! Bad to the bone. hey, on that 2nd picture Kev, don't read a damned thing into it when you look at Ivans helmet. He put that shit up there for the satellites that are tracking him. Not directed at U. Read it slow. Take care kev, it's all good. LOL. Really.

Laugh or cry..... [video:youtube]

Little history of Memorial Day story from the Times of Israel.

It's the "A month after the hypothetical Seattle Fault quake, more than 137,000 households would still be without water." (which doesn't mean you'll have water after a full month without it either) kind of gets yer attention in this story. http://seattletimes.com/html/localnews/2021019310_quakescenariosxml.html Earthquakes man....bad juju. I'm hoping that the old house doesn't shake apart and collapse, if it does and we're sleeping in it..whew.

Well, as part of the new "hope and change" mantra that Americans chose 5 years back, the folks in charge have now changed the feeding practices. New ringbolts to shackle them to new chairs. May we all be so blessed. Mama was right, should just eat your vegetables.[/sarcasm] Nutrition shake via the nose tube! 2008 version. [video:youtube] http://www.motherjones.com/politics/2013/05/photos-hunger-strike-guantanamo-force-feeding http://rt.com/news/guantanamo-bay-hunger-strike-399/ http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2013-04-26/news/sns-rt-us-usa-guantanamo-forced-feedingbre93p04n-20130425_1_prison-hunger-strike-hunger-strikers-guantanamo-bay

Butter? Dude looks like he needs a date for some sexy time Pink.

Well it's been a while, and I've been out with torn rotator cuffs. From memory.... thinking 5.9 if you followed it, but I think one of the bolts is in the wrong place as you have to make a hard move then clip it.......need to be climbing a lot and have a solid lead head for it to feel comfortable if you are at that grade, so could go 10b for the move on lead when you first see it, and suspect that given the gravity of the situation most 5.10 or maybe even a 5.11 gym climbers would back off it.........got the old school feel it has. Of course, you have seen some grade discourse on Young Warriors on CC.com go every which way but loose, so that's not anything definitive, just tossing it out for further consideration.... Cue Kevbone spray comment....but he doesn't know what we are even talking about I'd bet. Few would. Whew, safe for now until Pink says he free soloed that line before the bolts were put in. His name for it was WallabyGollaby, as he named it for his dog I think, and he also thinks the current name, once we figure it out and tell him what is is, sucks. PS, from the Genesis tree anchor (the lower one), try stepping down and right up past 4 bolts. No more than 5.8 and think those are better placed. Maybe if enough folks get up there it will help keep these old routes clean(er).