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Posts
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Everything posted by billcoe
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Your honor, the Twinkie defense rests. Once Obamacare kicks in, the government will be getting substantially more involved in what everyone eats Bob, won't be long now I'd suspect.
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pfft, kids. [video:youtube]
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Bone cares man, he cares. [font:Times New Roman]photo Jimmy O[/font] Lance, not so much.
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Women turned that whole paradigm around in the 70's and 80's. If you google Arlen Bloom "Women on top" you'll see the womens Annapurna expedition that really broke off from that tradition. If you just google "Women on top" it's a whole different, but no less interesting, ballgame. Don't ask me how I know that. As far as getting more females to post here, I suspect that some guys posting here would have to stop acting like hemoroids, which seems against many guys very nature. Take Rob there for example.... Please. http://www.rolereboot.org/culture-and-politics/details/2012-12-a-letter-to-the-guy-who-harrassed-me-outside-the-bar
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Down in Mexico with the family at a local eatery. Place had cats running around everywhere. We order local but the boy, then @ 9-10 years old orders a burger. He's left it less than half eaten on his plate and casually says it "tastes funny". I grab it off his plate and nosh down. Just as my tongue was rolling around experiencing an unusual tasting meat it had never had before (or since) and which I didn't like, I'm paused mid-chew considering the thing when the boy, watching my reaction to the flavor says ...."Meowwwwwwww". LOL.
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Not so much a big cat as much as a BIG group of cats. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2262662/Volunteers-save-1-000-cats-dining-table-discovering-cramped-cages-following-road-crash-Changsha-China.html Cat, it's what's for dinner.
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Ivans got it. I don't know what you thought you read that brought that tirade off but I was pointing that specifically at Kev who will NEVER get a flu shot. Do the research and what we believe was huge death toll from the horror of WW1 was quietly equlipsed in a shorter time by teh Flu pandemic. No - I don't need to be lectured to about the reality of WW1 being horrific or all the other bullshit. My grandfather survived WW1 stuck in a rat infested trench in Belguim whereas my wifes grandfather kicked back in lovely sunny Hawaii was taken out by the flu. A bit of research for Kevin would have him change his mind in short order about NEVER getting a flu shot. You have yer flu, and then ya have yer flu.
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What I find extremely worrisome is this: balance the budget during relatively good times, pr even slow down the race into hell, where is this going to end? And it will end at some point. In my mind, the longer we wait the worse it will be. Oh look, it's the debt clock working....http://www.usdebtclock.org/ Oh. Sorry, last time I posted this, YOU, Mr. US citizen owed $34,000. Seemed unreal then. I'm longing for those days. Can you see what the debt per US citizen is now? Ouch. Good news (NOT), the clock is still running like a well oiled machine top. WTF, it's only money.
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ps, can I have your cams? reference quote:
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Kevin....in response to your statement I only have 2 questions which I want you to google and learn the answers too. 1st) How many people, total, died in battle during World war 1? (refresher course update, WW1 was the years 1914-1918. 2nd) How many people, total, died due to the 1918 flu pandemic? After you have those numbers, touch base again. I want to see if this still applies: I'm not joking.
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Only on the trail Bryan! The streams were running full tilt.
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Another point worth noting is that there are many many strains floating and evolving around the world at any one point. They try and pick what they perceive will be the one which will evolve into the nastiest/deadlyist and/or most prevalent/widespread and produce a vaccine for that. The lag time to get it to market often means that the flu that took you down AFTER you had your flu shot is a different version and wasn't even considered a threat when they were developing the vaccine for the (other) strain of flu (that wasn't the one which infected you) that they choose. It takes 6 months to develop the vaccine and then they need time to get it out there. For myself, never had a flu shot. However, this is due to laziness and the feeling that I have a slight preference on letting my body do the work that I'm aware of (being in the military as a pup realistically means that they pumped one into me at some point, but they never told me that specifically if it did occur). My mom is currently 91, and has had EVERY annual flu shot publicly available for the last 60 some odd years. She never gets the flu. Any flu. Ever.
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Looks steep: Looks deep We went down to 3 Capes area and hiked the Cape Lookout trail. 3 pods of whales migrating and perfect weather were the highlights. They're about halfway done from turning that trail from a sinkhole into a dry superhighway. If I'd known the weather was going to be that perfect I'd have wanted to do a lap at Beacon. Thought there was a possibility of some rain scheduled from when I'd checked the weather earlier in the week. Good times regardless.
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I'd keep checking Timberline lost and found Ben. Bet it shows eventually. Good luck!
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opps just saw this - classic. Just send in a check for these poor folks if you feel they are entitled. didn't think so. LOL
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Check your blood pressure before you read this one. LOL, filing this under the "no good deed goes unpunished" file. Side note: no one was nailed to anything in the 2 years since Prole posted that story. http://www.politico.com/story/2013/01/washingtons-jaw-drops-at-possibility-of-aig-lawsuit-85924_Page2.html Mo money mo money mo money......
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[TR] Cape Horn - Half-Cocked Who-Da-Phuck-Knows-What? 1/5/2013
billcoe replied to ivan's topic in Columbia River Gorge
Way to get on it dudes! Went hiking out that way yesterday...if you could call it that. Jazman bailed and stayed i the car LOL!. Noted that it was still below freezing (31 degrees) from Mt Pleasant/Ozone/Farside to right past Cape Horn still. Watch the roads if any one is driving out....close to ice. -
Holy crap, now I get something to aromate my starter beard. End of 2012 photo by the lad base of Uprising. Crap it was cold, Ice anywhere there had been water. Good times.
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What a story. Sorry to hear of it, so sad. They sound like some remarkable guys, the kind any of us would gladly tie in with any day. My condolences to friends and family who will no doubt be hurting at the loss of some good folks taken all too soon. I believe David posted here as Reinhart. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/userposts/id/10480
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Well, if you were down here the quick solution would be to hire a bunch of Mexicans. They do the work you don't want to do it's been said repeatedly.... ...the American way.
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[TR] Bacon Wand - - The All Hallowed South-East Corner 12/28/2012
billcoe replied to ivan's topic in Columbia River Gorge
Was out today doing a lap with the boy and we watched this show. I think whats happening in this dance is that the Sea Lions are munching salmon and steelhead. They come blasting out of the water and slam the fish down to stun it, the gulls swing down to steal any morsel or strip of flesh that gets detached off the fish. Pretty sure.....although they in turn get snuffed by Oregon Fish and wildlife with much less fanfare. They're pretty voracious. Saw Timetraveler and Big Wall Rick formerly from BZcorners out there yesterday. Screwed up and hiked down with the pup to caretake, got invited for a lap and either had to toss the garbage out the pack to make room for the dog or abandon the thing. Which I considered and realized that that wouldn't fly with the wife since the dog is hers. ps, whomever got the branches we'd cut and left earlier and left on the trail near the top, good job and thanks. I had my Metolius haul sack, hiked all the way up to the top to get that stuff, and forgot to empty the trash out which I'd already picked up from below mostly water bottles tossed off from the hiking trail), so there wasn't much room left. -
It doesn't seem unreasonable that you can wear them outside without puncturing them the first day or so. Are you expected to carry them and wear a 2nd pair of boots for approaches? Maybe they need a warning sticker "Not for outside use". I suspect they're made for more civilized European approaches. hah hah! Awwww, but so cute.
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I slept in, got a massive cold and it's raining outside so I'll play. I don't know if I'd worry too much about it. It seems like the guys who are climbing hard assed bolt clipping sport stuff often don't seem to care all that much. Walk up aggro gully at Smith sometime see what folks have hanging off them....However, to flesh out your different draws for different things question: IMO, the brand choice for Blakes method is the Wild Country Heliums. Full sized, full strength full on sexy:-). I had 6mm shoulder slings I've doubled up and for those long routes Blake is describing, they work awesome. They don't make the 6mm anymore (the strength curve of a 6mm sling drawn on a chart looked like someone rolling a rock off a cliff, whereas the 8mm will work as good and last longer. I hear these doubled up draws called "trad draws", and you can haul them along on long gear routes and either use them as full length runners or doubled up as a draw to extend a piece or clip a bolt. Good stuff. If you go do any long route in Yosemite or Red Rocks, you'll quickly see that most lines wander and the rope drag you will get off a short draw is not something a rational being encourages or wants. Thus, longer is better. If you do a route like Epinephrine as an example, a mix of both is nice, there are both bolts where a draw works great, and wandering pitches as well. If you are feeling comfortable, clipping a bolt with a shoulder sling (seen over the shoulder photo below) only adds a foot or so to a potential fall, and you shouldn't be falling on these kinds of routes anyway. Here's Ujahn with a bolt clipped on Epi, could you imagine a fall in a chimney like this? You'd look like a ball in a Pachinko machine hitting both walls as you fell. Brutal. Don't causally fall on long routes or think it will be fine dogging on your gear. Not saying you can't fall, but it's something which needs to be well thought out and more for a guy on his game to chose to do. Ask Blake or anyone doing long routes, it's a different dynamic all the way around from a sport climbing area with (generally) lots of people and easy fast connection to the ground if something goes wrong. The casual attitude seen by most climbers at sport areas about falling translates poorly to gear placements in the outback. For a bolt clip up route like some of the stuff at Smith Rock (I don't do a lot of those), the doubled shoulder length draws do not work as good as just a quickdraw. They're fiddly and floppy, whereas a dedicated draw like the great clipping Petzl one Layton has posted above will rule. The Petzl biners clip well (very smooth) and the beefy draw is nice for grabbing, and won't need replacing anytime soon. I bought a rack of DMM Mambas because of the smoothness of the gates, and I love them, but not every "bolt clipper" I've been out with does. I've got the version wherein only one end is sewn in, not looking forward to replacing the sling. I also have the Wild Country Helium draws for just a lightweight sport draw. I carry them anytime I'm going on a hike to get to a climb. So light. The hooded nose will help keep the thing clipped in a swinging fall too. I got them because REI had them on sale for $10.83. 2 biners and the draw. $10.83 total. Wish I'd bought more:-) They're nice as the colors on each end give you a quick clue which end should be on the bolt. Light is nice, but the price includes shorter longevity. A quick check of 5.12 and 5.13 climbers will get you all kinds of draws, and if you ask them why they chose that brand, it's often cause they got a pro or a bro deal from Metolius or Black Diamond. Other than biner size, ie, no one likes the mini biners (like the Nano or Mini), most of them don't seem too particular in general, and will grab about anyones draws just randomly laying on the ground to siege a route it seems. There's exceptions, and I'd look at Chads suggestion on the Mammut: but I've never noticed him being all that particular out in the real world. Of course, that might just be a function of me not paying attention. No matter what you get, draws and biners wear out and need replacement. Fixed draws at some areas (with particulate matter in the vicinity) in particular. The wear in the biner in the photo below resulted in a rope that became 2 parts. The first draw/first bolt on a sport route seems to be the worst as the force of a fall is higher. You see this kind of wear on a first bolt fixed draw, don't clip it if you think you may pitch, replace at least the worn biner. Death biners. So to recap, it matters but little which draw you buy.
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This thread is remarkably similar to this one. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2606846;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;page=unread#unread As it's so similar with the magical KJUS discussed that let me repeat what I said over there: You need to be spamming the hunting and gun boards. Your camo KJUS looks to be just the stuff for either a Turkey hunter or a mall shooter. What this board needs is another good wind shirt argument discussion. The shit they are coming out with now defies belief. I was in the valley while back and TimetraverlSteve whips out something that resembled a minimalist womans thong...except with less frilly lace (sadly) and in the form of a windjacket and not a thong. Super lightweight ultra sheer Northface Windshirt score for the WIN! I later saw that Mt Hardware had a similar thing and got one. I stuffed it in my pocket despite it being warm on the valley floor when we started the 30 pitch day or whatever the hell it was. Later, as we were on Crest Jewel and the winds were hitting 20mph and butt assed cold in the late day shade, I could climb comfortably instead of shivering as was my former tradition. Great for fat assed lazy old guys who don't want an extra ounce of crap. Love it. Mine is called the Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer Anorak jacket and clocks in at @ Weighs 1.87 oz. Ounces! Can't speak for what the Timtraveler had, but it amazed the heck out of me.
