genepires

getting to dreamer (without the recent road damage) seems short compared to static pt.

if silent running goes well, try total soul right next time. If you got time after silent running, try the kone route on the buttress to the left. 3.5 pitches and IMO a little more "spicy" than silent running. for exfoliation dome, just getting to the base can be a challenge. Some thousands of vertical feet of 20 degree slab walking, where a slip will be.....bad. There are a couple detours around bad spots too. Just have to keep you eyes open to find them. (think climbing trees and roots for one) Don't even think about it a day after a rain storm. Sticky rubber approach shoes are good. I've descended dark rythm or whatever the route to the left of blueberry buttress is. There was one rope eating section. always room for epics.

as seen from my porch in monroe, a big black cloud is heading to the mtns right now.

true that, get a synthetic bandana.

cotton bandana around forehead keeps the sweet from going into eyes.

is outdoor bouldering not as harsh? If yes, then maybe look at why this is so and make your indoor more like outdoor.

It might be a better idea to just call OR and ask for another foam insert. Would suck if the insert either fell apart while on the mountain or if it compacted down to a point of being worthless. They must have looked at many different foams before picking the one they put in now.

you such a tease.

yes you need the insulation on the bottom. This is quite possibly the most important insulation in boot. The crampons will transfer heat very well and make the bottom of the boot (which has little insulation also) very cold. I would guess that you could get some durable blue sleeping pad foam and put that in once it was cut to fit. whatever goes in there should be field tested for durablility

nope not for aliens, only the cams that will allow you to loop the weedwack wire through the trigger somehow. Works good for camalots though.

definitely western washington on a normal day. I would say in the darrington valley but with the road partially washed out........

Already many life insurance policies don't cover people who participate in "extreme" sports. Maybe health insurance companies are trying to figure out the financial impact of insuring climbers.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/IMG_03291.jpg for your larger cams, try the weedwack repair job. honestly it works better than regular swages.

my wife won't let me post photos of our boy because she thinks this site is full of stalker pedophiles. getting used to climbing with leashes practicing alpine mixed bouldering so he can be the next Ueli Steck. note the rad hand and footwear. it is all about the headwear too.

are you asking if the baker lake road is open or do you take baker lake road to get to shannon crk rd? Yes it is open and will take you to shannon crk rd. (as per the MBSNF road condition website updated 5/6/11) Have not been there this year, but with the way things are locally, I would bet on a lot of snowed over shannon crk rd walking to get in there right now. It starts at about a 1000ft elevation and ends at about 2000 ft elevation so you will most probably get about half way up driving. In a "normal" year, we were able to get half way by mid april. hope that helps

9 huge cams in the rack of doubles. amazing you got off the ground with that much aluminum.

A great example as to why some of us despise sport "cimbing". fuckoff tool...why did you even look in this thread? I despise your elitist attitude... can't we all just get along like kids in kindergarten? We need some adult supervision here.

Good luck with that one Jake. If you want comfort 20 degrees, it will be very hard to find a synthetic bag for less than 3 pounds. The down bags at FF come in at around 1.75 pounds. Your best bet may be to call someone at pro mountain sports and get their feel for this. Those guys keep on top of those kinds of things. They had a montbell bag 15degree for 3.75 pounds. and a 30degree for 2.5 pounds.

I regret to say that I had the urge once to shake my little Liam. Best choice I ever made was to put him down and walk out the room. memory of that moment still sickens me. Tyson, I suspect that you are a better than most of us. Either that or you are estrogen dominate.

every year the same homeless guy, who just got off the alaska ferry, would come into the AAI shop in bellingham to buy one piece of gear to make his homeless life better. He was real stoked when he got a msr cookpot. He lugged a half full dufflebag on his annual migration to and from AK. Fairly LW for your typical homeless dude.

tha dog looks tired.

Indeed Indeed x2

obvious communication error and you have to whine and curse on the interweb before contacting AAI? It looks like they took it off already.

the article for the photos came out in this months climbing magazine. (issue 295) I know, climbing magazine is a stupid magazine but this article and the Ueli Steck interview are very good articles and make the magazine worth the money. At least go read it in the climbing store or library.

For single gear slings, I always hated it when the gear naturally falls directly in front of me, hiding my foot placements. I would use a gear sling a lot more often if it wasn't for that. Was actually considering getting a light double gear sling to avoid this but haven't yet. I usually use a gear sling for routes where 1 set of nuts and 2 sets of cams are needed. And always on alpine rock for gear change overs. I have a very light unpadded gear sling from trango that I like very much. Unfortunately, they no longer make them. Knock on wood, but I have not lost gear falling off of harness. but I have lost gear from the gear sling. I guess that makes me "special".