genepires

Once again, I don't know everyone here. BUt the ones I know and what I get from reading what people say, I don't think a sizable part of cc.com has a "bouldering/gym hive mindset". I believe that the majority favor the experience over the numbers as well. It is ironic that you mention "I guess its just a balance that seems hard to make in this day and age." when that is the exact problem (I suspect) that people have with the extremist views like raindawg's. There is no balance with people like him. No give and take. No compromise or accepting that others have valid points. Not really the member of a "community". (damn I am getting old using the community word) Say you are a smoker who likes to eat a burger once in a while. You got a brother who quit smoking and is a vegan who hounds you every day about your vices. Is the brother right? Probably, but who gives a rats ass because that brother is a dick after a short time and the good message is lost. But if the vegan brother makes a ranting comment say once a month and is a good helpful guy the rest, then maybe the message will have an impact. You see this kind of thing with most conservation organizations. Warn and inform us but don't badger us. Save the dire message for the end of the ocean documentary. ""extreme" views like Dawgs are really normal." No there are not. Reasonability and rationality are normal. Normal takes in consideration the overall picture. Normal understands that many people are involved with this activity and that many differing opinions are held. Normal member of society would try to accommodate the majority while still make progress to personal beliefs. Compromise. give and take. Dictators say what the beliefs and rules are. Dictators don't care about society but impose their beliefs on the masses. (not claiming anyone is a dictator as you have to be in charge to be a dictator but you get my drift) Can't end on such a harsh note. I didn't want to turn into a "bashing session". Just trying some civility. Once again, the internet allows these interactions to occur without appreciating that there is a person on the other end of the screen. It is just little 1's and 0's floating through copper and fiber. Society could use some more face to face time.

I am sure we would all get along just fine if meeting face to face. I get the feeling that people don't crap on dawg because it is fun. It is the presentation of dawg's ideas. No one likes being preached to endlessly. No one likes being told that they are lacking true morals endlessly either. And maybe the problem is that dawg has not offered anything to this site other than his feelings towards bolting and being critical of nearly everyone. A one track horse that becomes just plain boring once the novelty wears off. maybe I am wrong but that is my take on it.

whatever.... you are lumping all "dissidents" of dawg's beliefs into a category of youthful, gym climbers, and little regard for nature. While I don't know everyone personally, the people who have issues with dawg's presentation that i know personally are all fine individuals who care about the environment and do not fit your description above. (even choada boy!) This is the problem with internet. Behind every avatar is a person and maybe a internet persona. Easy to let that persona get out of hand when all you see is a digitized enemy. Things were much more civil when all interactions took place around a campfire, pub or crag. oh great. I write a thoughtful post and you go ahead and edited it while I wasn't looking

let the baby have his pudding. Save the stump to make the dawg shut up.

5 pounds! I bet most people read that far. It is the gear notes and approach notes that I don't bother with nice job and good calls! Icicle (construction not leavenworth) ice climbs are scary.

I THINK the 3rd one is just left of the second pitch of careno regular route. I thought I saw a fish wall somewhere in the middle and a clems hollar at the end.

how do we find the answer to our "quiz". I think I failed with 8 that I know right and a couple of guesses.

??? I no read good. Not sure where you are going with your post. I also no understand "hypocritical" good. BUt how about if we all make a virtue and carry out our own poop. Emergencies are emergencies but the planned open poops are gross. This is coming from a personal experience where I was sitting down after a pleasant hike up to the summit of temple, I moved a rock to put my hand down (sitting down and leaning back if that makes sense) and unknowingly put my hand right on a pile of human crap. Ruined my good day and scarred me to this day. A well used climbing area is even more important to carry it out. It was a valuable lesson for acon-choss-ua though. That place is littered with poop bombs under every rock larger than a frisbee. My last gross incident involved one well known old man climber who unloaded within a couple feet of a running creek in the ghost range. I think he used a stick to wipe his ass too. That didn't ruin my day but I don't drink calgary water either. why can't I stay away from poop conversations?

You are right. It was a long time since I bought the gi gi and looked at the instructions. I thought the instructions had it so that you could use it like a stitch plate. (Like bring a bight of rope through one hole and clip it to the belay loop) But looking at their website again, I see that it should be setup looking like a carabiner brake mode. My bad.

the dawg agrees! (yeah it is out of context)

Way to flip flop of the topic. First one offers "leaving ZERO impact" and the second shows how you leave lots of impact. This is not just the regret of a past but you still do it. Hypocritical. You bury your poop under rocks! Get wag bags, carry your feces home and put it into the dumpster please. Bury it in good soil where it will degrade biologically. Leaving feces under rocks contaminates the drinking water for a long time. Common "Leave No Trace" principals here. how did this discussion get from cutting a small dead stump to shit? It always comes back to shitting.

apology excepted. now go climb some hard shite that I can barely even dream of. @ Julian regarding the gi gi. I have one and the instructions that came with it showed how to use it to belay a leader, much like a stitch plate. The reason people are using it as if it was a tubular device is because it was designed to be used that way. Now I am not agreeing that it is a good idea as I had a horrible time using it for belaying a leader. The rope did not slide through the device very easy but that may have been a rope diameter or user error problem. Why are you thinking that the gigi is not designed to be used as a belay device for a leader?

well shiete, you should make a program for cc.com wankers! You could be our resident physical trainer as Dane is our resident ice gear guru. How about a article about general programing for alpinist hardpeople wanna-be's? maybe something like a x-fit WOD geared towards alpinists.

way to get all gnar on me Marc. I guess I have to be more specific with my statements but I figured that some things should be obvious. I suppose they are not. The discussion was about ice climbing (in the ice climbing forum...go figure) and morphed into mixed climbing. You are bringing it to rock climbing. My statements applied to the idea of climbing mixed ground with ice tools and crampons. I think we can agree that falling with these implements flying around while bouncing off small ledges and such is a bad idea. Now say you are sorry about the "bullshit" comment.

Hey John, I heard that the upper half of the route (after the ice gulley) is not usually done in the late spring and early summer due to the sloppy snow and avi conditions. Do you think that the snow is better in the late winter making a full ascent more likely? (given a good weather window)

that is not ice climbing so the "don't fall" rule does not apply. Now if the rock was less than vertical, like alpine climbing, the rule would apply.

bad fall but good video editing.

nice job. that traverse photo is sweet. as are the rest.

a broken ankle is not a low impact thing either. If it comes down to a dead stump or another broken ankle, the stump loses. Cutting out a stump is not denuding vegetation. Once again, the dawg takes things over the top or doesn't take the time to understand the situation before a knee jerk reaction arises. If the dawg is right 99% of the time, then this might be that 1%, but I doubt it.

What is the reason for the tickets/towing? Is it something that is only during the ski season? It seems like they would not have the authority to be able to do this as it is public land. They definitely wouldn't do that to the RV parked there.

not everything has to relate to climbing. My training goals are based on many things, nothing related to outdoor recreation. Will my training hinder my climbing? Probably, but that is OK as long as I reach goals I have laid out for myself. My days of sending hard (by modern standards) are long gone. Like I was never there to begin with anyway. You are right about the pullups and climbing related performance.

OMG you shouldn't even be within sight of a mountain unless you can hump 120 pounds of crap in the pack at 1000ft vert per 10 minutes while smoking unfiltered fags. (cigarettes for the PC squeemish) No really, what the small rodent said is good. And to that good personal maintenance skills (sun protection, Body temp control, excellent hydration and food intake, keeping the pack weight under control and being very mindful of the weather/subjective/objective hazards and conditions{not in order of importance}) you should be fine. Use your brain even more so when you are tired. Keep aware of where you are for the return trip. Learn and use a map/compass. (backtrack gps unit?) think, be present and enjoy. When times get hard, your body can do more than you think it can. Use your time this spring to train, read and learn.

After the first or second incident, why in the hell did you keep going there? Dead spiders and maggots is a sign to stay away. I think a little bit of dinner just came up.

If you can get a butt ass early, zero dark 30 start, there is a 60 foot steep snow wall at stevens pass ski area parking lot. (created by snow clearing machines) The thing is very steep and is probably 70 to 80 degrees. You would need to be there after a clear cold night and be done before the sun really hits it. From sun rise, you might be get 3 or 4 hours of use out that snow feature. You could use trees above for a TR anchor. It is on the northside parking lot, west end, where the buses unload people so there are no parked cars around. go grab some buddies who has a car, a rope, gear and swing those tools into some frozen steep ice/snow.

NBC is a good route especially early season. Can get tricky in late may when it melts out somewhat. It gets sun early in the morning so have a cold or overcast day. Near the top of the initial gulley, there is a another gulley heading off left and up. Don't take that but head straight up to the saddle and onto the west face to teh summit. Be avi aware.