genepires

maybe a better question is if there is even climbing allowed there? What is the extent of the ban from last year?

I got a old rock and ice issue with a brief guidebook for the castle rock area just outside of the city of rocks. Dave Bingham has a guidebook for that area called "Castle Rocks Idaho". Is this the best guidebook for that area? What is better? (either book or online) Any recommendation for routes in castle rocks? Lone rock seems like the place for the moderate rock monkey. (5.10 and less) thanks in advance, gene

you didn't mention it but if you don't have a helmet of some kind, get that right now.

above plus add: good pair of approach boots (depends on fit and what the alpine rock goal is) good helmet good variable condition clothing (pants, tops) I like the c option best. But if you go via option A, get half of a aid rack assuming that your partner will have more than half of a aid rack also. Maybe get all of your personal aid gear and 1/3 of a aid rack, whatever than is.

not a complete ruin. One tick infested day on outer space, I kicked steps in snow after the last pitch. With the exception of the last 20 feet, the rest of the route was bone dry.

if I remember right, you are saying the silver star slide mentioned came right down silver star creek? A lot of forest smashed down for the slide to get there?

the ticks will form barracades and taunt you to cross. Bring a small army to battle the fearsome blood suckers.

D and I went down keyhole in late october sans wetsuits also. Frigid that time of year too. Frantic run from water, across sand and back to the road in the sun.

Nominate Darin's remote alpine romp in garibaldi park http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/836193/TR_The_Sphinx_N_Ridge_Phyllis_#Post836193

slika 3 looks like the only one that might work and even if it does, you got 2 sharp axes flying at you when you pull. slika 4 looks like a good way to have to go back up and reset the thing too many times. I bet the red line would fall off the bottle very often no, I have never used anything like this either.

maybe a Lowe pack? He was making packs back then I believe.

plans changed. Am committed in morning now.

oh yeah, looking for moderates early season rust removal.

have to be back in woodinville by 4:30pm but able to get out for the day. pm me gene

depends on what that 10hr of climbing is. And maybe some people enjoy the 100 hr training.

OK. Point being though that is the previous generation had the technology and resources, would they have called for a rescue or toughed it out? High altitude rescue has come to the himalaya now. Didn't some high profile guy get saved soloing some hard line on nanga parbat or something?

satellite phones would be better but they are expensive. for now. Another thought. There is sometimes a idea that this technology is unnecessary and that "back in the day" the real men would not have used them. BUt it would be interesting to ask some hardmen from days long gone, who have been involved in some nasty situations, if they would have pushed the button if they had one? Would Jeff Lowe called the rescue on latok? How many times would Joe Simpson? Instead of cutting the rope, would Yates push the SPOT? Jim Whickwire in AK with his buddy stuck in the crevasse? (book Addicted to Danger) Colby Coombs on foraker? These guys were in TOUGH situations. Would they have pushed the SPOT button?

the power of humans is amazing. That is some crazy terrain.

A lot of hate going on for a couple guys who did things that many of us would do to (talking about the wands, stove and GPS, not the emergency call) The reality of the sport is that we make mistakes and usually get away with it. Sometimes we are perfect. Sometimes we don't get away with the mistakes. Sometimes we don't come back. These guys made a string of mistakes. They made a call that maybe wasn't the best. At least they are alive and able to learn from a mistake. Who is perfect that can cast the first stone? Who hasn't made serious error in judgement? I would say that every trip, or every climber, has some mistake made at least on a small level. If you think you are perfect, then you are delusional. Why hate on them so much with so little info? Who can say the situation they were in? maybe it was warranted and only they can answer that.

God put it there to frustrate climbers.

what a strange comment since everyone is agreeing with you. Bragging & chest beating? But for a different view point. Even if you are not going fast, carrying less weight makes the miserable less miserable. Getting 5 pounds off of a 45lb pack does wonders and might actually be more noticeable than getting a 15lb pack down to 10lb. (as far as standard alpine climbing and backpacking)

layton for president! Him and Trump can fight it out.

nuts and hexes. go old skool. Been a while, but I don't remember belaying much on that route. More scrambling and a couple pitches I believe.

Been using the FF (3 different bags) for 2 decades. Hoods are good and I don't know where one could complain about. Damn good stuff and durable. Plus they don't sell pitons to newbies. Never had a WM so I can't comment on a comparison. Might come down to what you can find cheaper.

fixed it for you.