genepires

eat whatever you like. I usually go with some kind of liquid energy stuff in the water bottle (cytomax, perpetum, ect), small halloween sized snickers bars every hour or so, cheese sticks and the usual "energy" bars. I know that mixing fancy perpetum and sugar/fat is not the recommended dietary intake but I am not doing some high performance enduro racing thing.

One rock exotica soloist. Used maybe for 2 pitches but sitting in the gear box for a decade. Most of the outside markings have worn off and I do not have the manual anymore. (should be easy to find on the web though) retails new for $108. will sell for $50. Will ship if you pay the shipping costs and use paypal. (not a silent partner but a soloist) can provide a photo if need be.

well loved black diamond aiders. I got a pair of 5 steps and a pair of 6 steps aiders. Used for probably around a dozen pitches and still in good shape but not new. Will throw in a BD oval biner per pair of aiders. Will sell as pairs (a 5 and 6 step makes a pair) for $35/pair or all four for $60. These things retail new at around $38 for one aider. Will ship of you pay shipping costs and use paypal. Will meet locally too. can provide a photo if need be.

for the uninsulated windshirts, I would think that if it fits, they are all the same. Is there enough difference between various models to justify not getting whatever is cheapest?

I believe that a stable warm airmass is needed for a thunderhead to form. Warm air rising (much like the blobs in a lava lamp), leaving electrons on the ground to cause the potential difference and cooling in the upper atmosphere to create the classic thunderhead. I think our on shore air breezes "stirs up" the air so that there is no massive amount of hot air rising but rather lots of small rising columns. Also, I think the trees and urban development have a factor in minimizing the formation of thunderheads. I think they form on the flat grassy plains and then cause trouble when they drift over the mountains. Sierra, colorado and tetons have lots of this terrain and lightning danger. Bugaboos are surrounded by more mountains and rarely has lightning issues. But I ain't no meteorologist. I have run away from cascade summits (both rocky spires) twice with immense static charges building up which usually precursors a lightning strike. Hair standing up and pushing the helmet upwards and hearing ringing sounds. So like grandpa says, "never say never".

WOW! that looks like a great line. Hard to believe that there are still FA gems to be had.

shuksan via white salmon glacier would be great. But the summit pryamid is the only place where it might feel crowded. So if you go via the salmon glacier, you may be in the same bottleneck. Oh yeah, there is a ridge alternative for the summit pryamid that can bypass the crowds that tend to go up the middle of the face. Any way up the summit pyramid is no place for complete inexperienced folks though. Also, the route you choose should depend on your skill level. Are you ready for the white salmon glacier? It is a bit steeper than C-D or sulphide.

for those who don't know, that is a book not food.

I wanna steal one and train it to be my alpine bitch rope gun.

open dialogue on the mysterious squire creek area = new times Seems like before slab daddy, words of squire creek were whispers around a campfire. Either due to keeping the secret hidden, fear from the scale of area or fear that the squire creek gods would smite thou.

bump?

there won't be much instruction for a 2 day trip. not sure what you want to get out of the trip. 2 days is to short for a guided baker trip. Also, if you are booking with a licenced and permitted guide service, you better call their office today and schedule something. It is not like fast food where you can drive through and pick up a guide. It may be too late already. you got some time still to train. 4 times a week, load up your pack to 30lbs and walk stairs.

what is the time frame for your trip? How many days total guiding? Private or group? your baker summit day will prolly be around 3000 vertical feet over many hours if you leave from a high glacier camp. (2am to 11am usually ) The pace should be reasonable for you if your guide is any good at all. I believe that the non glacier camp is at 6500ft which would give you a 4000ft vert day. I have taken lots of people from this camp with varying physical levels with success. I suspect that you will do fine especially if you can run 6 miles. One note. running ability does not correlate to hiking with a pack ability. Something about the weight causing a different stride pattern that is not adapted to. Sometimes the runners did worse than the average joe or jane. If you think that you are not physically prepared for baker, then sahale quien sabe glacier would be a good choice.

damn that is a bad way to leave this existence.

It has been my experience that if you ride a fire dept ambulance, you get a free ride. Am I wrong about that? Does the fire dept have the ability to charge for ambulance rides? If I am right, maybe you can have the sheriff call the fire dept ambulance people. How does that work anyway between fire dept EMT vs private EMT? first one to the crash scene wins?

If you hire a guide, get your moneys worth on baker. (depending on wether they have a permit or not there) If they do have a permit, push really hard for the baker location if they try to nudge you to sahale. Sahale usually has more user days for guide companies, but baker would be a superior learning environment. After baker, you could solo sahale via the sahale arm with a tiny bit of glacier. should be relatively safe and very beautiful too.

assuming you are already bringing a rope, the amount of gear to qualify as glacier travel gear is almost trivial and mostly can be used for technical portions of the climb anyway. if you are climbing a technical route anyway, you extra weight would be a pulley and a couple short prussiks per person. (assuming you would bring a belay device, a couple biners, a cordelette and a picket per person anyway) Side note. A piece of gear that is not thought about much but might be crucial is a small metal bladed shovel. If there is a need to clear the lip so that the victim can climb out (like when the rope cuts in far into the soft, weak, late day snowpack) using a axe will take a long time and possibly cut the rope if you are trying to clear the area around the rope. better to use a shovel to clear an area to the side of the loaded line. Though what matters more is the knowledge to be able to use the sparse gear you bring. Good luck, get ready for a long hike in and share the stoke when you get back.

Nice. is that mr whitelaw? (the beard seems to dark)

scored 4 things coming down the s arete of s early spire saturday. regular garage sale coming down wecu debit card - contacting bank #3 hex - owner found on descent Wms grey fleece shirt - owner probably found. left at base for 3 women still on route. fleece hat - owner not found yet found one tick on summit - squashed with nut tool PM me if you lost a hat on the south arete area.

In addition to the above comments. typically the steepish parts of the ice are less than 30m. If you own a 60m half rope, you could bring that for the route. Tie into the middle of the rope (bowline on a bight is a great knot for that situation) and your partners on either end. Lead with usual double rope technique. Belay each follower independently while they both climb with a auto locker belay device on the anchor. After the steep bit, you could either pitch it out a couple more times or revert to glacier mode and running belay the rest depending on comfort level. I wouldn't drag a single line up baker. To much glacier to steep ice ratio.

so the tent worked admirably in tough conditions, you claim it is overbuilt and give it away. smart. just curious but what is the purpose for which the tent was designed? sounds like a good expedition tent.

it was northwest cable news. if it is on you tube, isn't it free game for anyone to use? (I have no real clue about those things)

because said expensive remote control biner (assume electronics involved) would repeatedly fall 60m and not fail? sounds something a russian/polish may try.

c'mon Rad, don't get all poopy. The forum is for all things rock climbing and this disaster of a thread is WAY better than the best spray forum thread. Which is easy to do. besides, without this debacle, we would never have seen the dog ass sliding video. You gotta admit that was worth it.

because it scares the shit out of "normal" people.