genepires

assuming you are already bringing a rope, the amount of gear to qualify as glacier travel gear is almost trivial and mostly can be used for technical portions of the climb anyway. if you are climbing a technical route anyway, you extra weight would be a pulley and a couple short prussiks per person. (assuming you would bring a belay device, a couple biners, a cordelette and a picket per person anyway) Side note. A piece of gear that is not thought about much but might be crucial is a small metal bladed shovel. If there is a need to clear the lip so that the victim can climb out (like when the rope cuts in far into the soft, weak, late day snowpack) using a axe will take a long time and possibly cut the rope if you are trying to clear the area around the rope. better to use a shovel to clear an area to the side of the loaded line. Though what matters more is the knowledge to be able to use the sparse gear you bring. Good luck, get ready for a long hike in and share the stoke when you get back.

Nice. is that mr whitelaw? (the beard seems to dark)

scored 4 things coming down the s arete of s early spire saturday. regular garage sale coming down wecu debit card - contacting bank #3 hex - owner found on descent Wms grey fleece shirt - owner probably found. left at base for 3 women still on route. fleece hat - owner not found yet found one tick on summit - squashed with nut tool PM me if you lost a hat on the south arete area.

In addition to the above comments. typically the steepish parts of the ice are less than 30m. If you own a 60m half rope, you could bring that for the route. Tie into the middle of the rope (bowline on a bight is a great knot for that situation) and your partners on either end. Lead with usual double rope technique. Belay each follower independently while they both climb with a auto locker belay device on the anchor. After the steep bit, you could either pitch it out a couple more times or revert to glacier mode and running belay the rest depending on comfort level. I wouldn't drag a single line up baker. To much glacier to steep ice ratio.

so the tent worked admirably in tough conditions, you claim it is overbuilt and give it away. smart. just curious but what is the purpose for which the tent was designed? sounds like a good expedition tent.

it was northwest cable news. if it is on you tube, isn't it free game for anyone to use? (I have no real clue about those things)

because said expensive remote control biner (assume electronics involved) would repeatedly fall 60m and not fail? sounds something a russian/polish may try.

c'mon Rad, don't get all poopy. The forum is for all things rock climbing and this disaster of a thread is WAY better than the best spray forum thread. Which is easy to do. besides, without this debacle, we would never have seen the dog ass sliding video. You gotta admit that was worth it.

because it scares the shit out of "normal" people.

this is true for all single wall tents. (and jackets too) So I would not let this data point deter you from getting this tent. If you want a tent that breathes well in a rain storm, you need a double wall tent.

saw your video on the morning news, channel 2. the news folk think we are crazy.

you two are such a cute pair.

but would it be as entertaining?

Nice!

technically you are saying that DNA matrixes can utilize the complex sugar compounds found in GU. I believe that DNA is made up of amino acids so complex sugar compounds are of no use to DNA. I suspect that you meant "Gene's" as in "Gene is". I can direct you to some english textbooks if you need a refresher on your native tongue. (if you look hard enough, you will find several english mistakes in this post too. Much like a "Where's Waldo" for grammer) Gu is actually sweet and tasty and helps me send the rad gnar gnar 5.8's that are so coveted.

I ate a gu that expired in 08 last weekend. Everything seems OK.

if it was tilted enough, maybe the heat from the stove rose to side if the pot and made that part much hotter than it would have been normally. How much of a tilt was going on? It seems like you would need a 20 degree or more tilt to make that happen.

bump This early end times only last for the next couple weeks.

FYI. there is cell coverage in newhalem but only within spitting distance of the town.

not the blue lake parking lot?

If I remember right, when a rope ages, it loses elasticity or has higher impact forces. So leading on trad gear may not be a good idea. But taking it sport climbing may be ok. Top roping should be fine.

really amazing how much snow is still on the sides of forbidden. I have spent a lot of time camping out on the eldorado/inspiration glacier in may/june (5 seasons) and I can't remember seeing that much snow by early june. Maybe my memory is flawed.

Got a job that is out early and I can be at the crags by 3:30 to 3:45pm. If you are interested in doing a couple laps after work on the LTW or something, drop me a line. My focus is just getting solid at the classic 5.9's there but will gladly be your belay bitch for sick harder things. got gear rope car. Will be leaving from monroe though but glad to drive from there.

In that photo, isn't the north face of buckner behind and left of forbidden? That photo should be from eldo glacier

option 1 is a morally correct thing to do for someone opposed to fixed draws. But rarely happens. option 2 is a bad idea as any negative comments told to the forest service (especially from within our own ranks) has negative consequences for climbing in general. now onto the idea that fixed draws are trash: from a dictionary definition of trash trash (trsh) n. 1. a. Worthless or discarded material or objects; refuse or rubbish. b. Something broken off or removed to be discarded, especially plant trimmings. c. The refuse of sugar cane after extraction of the juice. 2. A place or receptacle where rubbish is discarded: threw the wrapper in the trash. 3. a. Empty words or ideas. b. Worthless or offensive literary or artistic material. c. Disparaging, often abusive speech about a person or group. 4. A person or group of people regarded as worthless or contemptible. tr.v. trashed, trash·ing, trash·es 1. Slang a. To throw away; discard: trashed the broken toaster. b. To wreck or destroy by or as if by vandalism; reduce to trash or ruins. c. To beat up; assault. d. To subject to scathing criticism or abuse; attack verbally: "The ... professor trashes conservative ... proposals as well as liberal nostrums" (Michael Marien). 2. a. To remove twigs or branches from. b. To cut off the outer leaves of (growing sugar cane). no where does leaving anything behind with the purpose of using it again by anyone else considered "trash". Arguments about fixed draws should not use the "trash" path as it is technically flawed.