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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. A great example as to why some of us despise sport "cimbing". fuckoff tool...why did you even look in this thread? I despise your elitist attitude... can't we all just get along like kids in kindergarten? We need some adult supervision here.
  2. Good luck with that one Jake. If you want comfort 20 degrees, it will be very hard to find a synthetic bag for less than 3 pounds. The down bags at FF come in at around 1.75 pounds. Your best bet may be to call someone at pro mountain sports and get their feel for this. Those guys keep on top of those kinds of things. They had a montbell bag 15degree for 3.75 pounds. and a 30degree for 2.5 pounds.
  3. I regret to say that I had the urge once to shake my little Liam. Best choice I ever made was to put him down and walk out the room. memory of that moment still sickens me. Tyson, I suspect that you are a better than most of us. Either that or you are estrogen dominate.
  4. every year the same homeless guy, who just got off the alaska ferry, would come into the AAI shop in bellingham to buy one piece of gear to make his homeless life better. He was real stoked when he got a msr cookpot. He lugged a half full dufflebag on his annual migration to and from AK. Fairly LW for your typical homeless dude.
  5. tha dog looks tired.
  6. Indeed Indeed x2
  7. obvious communication error and you have to whine and curse on the interweb before contacting AAI? It looks like they took it off already.
  8. the article for the photos came out in this months climbing magazine. (issue 295) I know, climbing magazine is a stupid magazine but this article and the Ueli Steck interview are very good articles and make the magazine worth the money. At least go read it in the climbing store or library.
  9. For single gear slings, I always hated it when the gear naturally falls directly in front of me, hiding my foot placements. I would use a gear sling a lot more often if it wasn't for that. Was actually considering getting a light double gear sling to avoid this but haven't yet. I usually use a gear sling for routes where 1 set of nuts and 2 sets of cams are needed. And always on alpine rock for gear change overs. I have a very light unpadded gear sling from trango that I like very much. Unfortunately, they no longer make them. Knock on wood, but I have not lost gear falling off of harness. but I have lost gear from the gear sling. I guess that makes me "special".
  10. I need someone to mow my lawn........aw never mind.
  11. If you want ticks, head to leavenworth.
  12. not a skier by any means anymore so I got a question. By my definition of side cut (which may be wrong) how can you have a narrow waist without significant side cut? I thought side cut was the change in width from tips to were the boot sits on the ski. (which were the waist would be to?) would this just be a skinny ski front to back?
  13. but where will you sleep when the wife kicks you out the house? and those annoying house guests? and the traveling climbing bums? and the drunks? or in my case, all the above?
  14. When the twin towers went down, it was sickening to see the cheering muslims and arabs on the tv. Made them look like monsters enjoying the deaths of americans. This mass of americans cheering the death of osama reminds me of that TV coverage long ago. We are the monsters now. I am glad he is dead, I just wish we could present ourselves better, in a more civilized way.
  15. never used one personally but here is a couple thoughts is your rope supple? I would imagine a stiff rope having a harder time going through the clove hitch. Maybe a older rope would be better than the new rope. In order to minimize the angle of the rope going through the clove hitch, have the rope going to the anchor on one side of the body and the free rope on the other side. If these ropes cross in front of you, they may induce friction.
  16. nice tale. On an escape from a wall, I was tasked with riding the pig down and I used a pair of carabiner brakes to increase the friction and it went well and easy to control. Basically the pig was connected to the paired biner brakes directly and I was attached to the biner brake via a daisy chain.
  17. I have only been in there once but is that where the plane usually lands? It seems much closer to that wall than when I was there but memory is frail and perspectives are hard up there. That U shape in the snow is the ski plane tracks right?
  18. while maybe not the best setup for skiing (maybe it is), but for mountaineering in variable or expected variable conditions, a thin liner and a windstopper glove and a standard goretex mitten shell w liner is a good relatively lightweight for the span of weather conditions it would be good for. 95% of the time, the mittens stay in the pack. But if the weather turns, and it will eventually, it is nice to have that protection for the hands.
  19. awesome trio to represent the PNW. Is this award for a trip to come or for something they already did?
  20. I don't think anyone is excusing his mistake. It was brought up in the article and I am would assume that most articles about him have reference to that too. Maybe in europe where climbers are sports stars things may be different. But here it seems that any bad choices with children involved results in a lifetime of media attention to that choice. Was it Brittany who dangled a child out of a window? The crocodile hunter who had his kid in a gator pit. Don't really know if michael jackson ever got away with the weird things that went on in his palace playground. I wonder if that tragedy had anything to do with his leaving the limelight or did he just get to old and tired? I suspect that it was a combination of both. It would be interesting to see how his death is taken in europe. Praised as a hero or quickly and quietly said goodbyes. I have never climbed in europe so I have no feel for how the culture is over there.
  21. I highly doubt that killing small children was his core value. Would bet that he has been beating himself up plenty in these last 10 years and inflicted more self pain than any interweb comments could ever. I can't even imagine what it must have been like for him. But you are free to have your feelings for a man you never met. Why not go protest his funeral? what would jesus do? the respecting the dead is a good idea because we all have made mistakes and someday we will die too. (albeit never a dead child on the conscious) And karma is a bitch. rip Erhard
  22. wow-zers! damn cool photos. maybe you could draw a line on the second photo where your route went for us unfamiliar types.
  23. must have been huge! There is a lot of horizontal terrain between that ice and the camping area. Suppose in alaskan scale, it is not enough. Condolences to friends and family of the deceased.
  24. snails pace going up is a good thing. a very good thing.
  25. route and time of year? for west buttress and normal climbing season, yes those are fine. There is a perma snowshoe/ski track up the kahiltna highway.
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