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Friedrich

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Friedrich last won the day on March 28 2022

Friedrich had the most liked content!

About Friedrich

  • Birthday 11/30/1999

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  • Occupation
    Recovering Climber
  • Location
    Seattle, WA

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  1. Hey there Rat & Marko, It's 4 years after your post, but I stumbled upon it and want to offer my congratulations. I made 3 or 4 serious attempts on this route from 2013-2015 or so, and chatted with a few other people about it including Jim Nelson. Nobody knew of any serious attempt, let alone a successful ascent. And it's a damn hard mixed climb. I think you can safely assume yours was the FA. The earliest reference is a Mountaineers report quoted in the Becky guide. I actually went down to the Mountaineers Library and looked up the original report at some point. It wasn't helpful. It's certainly been looked at a million times, but on my attempts (and on one summer scouting trip) I never saw any gear or evidence of prior attempts. (besides my own bail pitons) I believe the combination of the remoteness and difficulty of the route, the distraction of all the good skiing to be had, and the fact that you have to walk past several other easier and more enticing lines on the way meant that it was neglected until you made it up there. You didn't rate the climb, but as you know, the route is pretty damn hard, with the angle of the face and the lack of pro being the main problem. If it were more vertical it would actually be less scary. Any fall would be a face-scraping tumbling disaster. One time, the conditions were ideal and there was solid rime ice all along the face, for the right foot and tool, but not enough for a screw. Pro was hard to find. I would be curious how you would rate it. Big props to you both for getting it done. Especially climbing up into that overhanging stuff and finding a way. I never got higher than your 2nd pitch. One up there I concluded it was too scary and beyond my abilities, so I abandoned the project. I doubt your route will see many repeats. Turf Testament was an act of faith. Congratulations on the FA.
  2. Good TR! Glad you made it out OK. Seems like everyone has close calls when they're new to the Alpine game, but your situational awareness and humility saw you through. Well done and congrats on the classic.
  3. Maybe next time. Found partner via PM, Thanks CC.com! Weekend warriors unite!
  4. ps: leaving Seattle 6:30am, return by 3pm or so. I'll drive.
  5. Partner cancelled, I see 3 are viewing this board.. what the heck. I'm running up Guye Peak tomorrow as a warm-up/start to the alpine season. Easy climb, have brought newbies up there before, but it's fun even for crusty old veterans like me. I even have an extra set of gear, if you're not fully equipped PM me ASAP thanks Friedrich
  6. Well done! Love that route. I agree, the crossing is the crux, the rest is just conditioning. DS dragged my ass up there about 15 years ago, on an overnight blast from Seattle. It feels like you have the whole mountain to yourself over there. I seem to recall we elected to rap down to the Yokum and the Sandy, using a snow bollard. Might be quicker than going way down low to find a suitable down-climbing spot. Of course, like anything, it's conditions-dependent.
  7. Officially the overnight parking lot ($15/night) is for lift-ticket-buying clients only, and you need to be in your vehicle overnight. Unofficially there is a possible work-around. I happen to be camping on Saturday night as well, and just got off the phone with Alpental Guest Services. I explained that my friend and I want to ski all day Sat & Sunday, and camp overnight in between, and need to buy an overnight parking pass. The guy on the phone said "no problem, just walk into the guest-services area, tell them you need to buy an RV pass. It's $15/day with a 3-night maximum." I pointed out that we don't have an RV and won't be in the vehicle, and he said "no problem." ProTip: When you go in to buy your pass, make sure you resemble a lift-skier more than an alpinist. Just to minimize nosy questions. As far as I know, if you just leave your car overnight in one of the other lots, without a pass, it will get towed.
  8. Outstanding! If there were a "like" and a "jealous" button on CC.com I would be clicking both.
  9. ... for newphew getting into climbing. Cheap please. PM me if you've got a spare. Light is right. Thx
  10. Bump - price drop $15 obo. Can arrange local pickup (Seattle) or will ship for cost. thx
  11. This pack was a throw-in to sweeten the deal when I bought a pricey tent this summer. I'm not a snowboarder so it's yours for $25. Condition used but solid. Color Black. Has about a dozen small flecks of yellow paint on the top, too small to show up in pictures. Pretty sweet little pack, actually. Has a pocket for everthing but is a still a compact daypack. Carries a board, shovel, probe, lunch, is hydro-compatibale, and there's even a padded fleece-lined pocket for your cell or electronic gizmo. All the info: http://www.dogfunk.com/dogfunk/review/71737/wow.html • Diagonal board and ski carry system with individual attachment straps • Weatherproof fleece lined audio pocket with headphone exit port • 17 side probe pocket • Hydration ready insulated internal shoulder strap hose compartment • Exclusive shovel/handle pocket • Sliding sternum strap • Adjustable waist strap • Materials: 600D Poly /Weather Proof Fabric • Weight: 2.35 lbs / 1.07 Kg • Dimensions: 19.5h x 12w x 4d • Capacity: 1750 Cu. In / 28.7 Liters PM if interested. Will ship for actual shipping cost to your area, must pay by paypal.
  12. I guess that's assuming the 1st guy doesn't want to buy the lid for $75. But maybe we should join forces? You want the lid, I'll buy the pack and your old lid, everybody happy? PM me.
  13. Dude I am going to hook you up. I've got a 0 degree sleeping bag that is in most excellent condition, and it's a model that's kinda legendary, the Marmot Couloir with the Dryloft shell. Yep, the one you can't buy any more. 850 fill down instead of the 800 they're using now, and the Dryloft is like a more breathable version of Goretex designed for down bags. It works brilliantly. With that shell, it would retail for probably $600 if you could buy this model today, which you can't. I don't really want to sell it, but for $400 I would. It's always been stored properly fluffed out and looks brand new. I can send pics. PM if interested.
  14. I've been looking for one of these. If the pack itself is a size large, you've got a deal. PM sent.
  15. I need a doppleganger so I can be in two places at once. Got Tix for Banf Mountain Film Fest tonight, had to buy way in advance of course so it was before this was announced. But it looks pretty cool! Have fun
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