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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. I believe that the local swelling is a natural reaction to a bee sting. I thought the people who are allergic to bee stings actually get swelling throughout the whole body. This swelling closes off the airway and hence the danger. If you passed out on your childhood experience with bee stings was due to this swelling, you prolly would not have gotten up. Maybe the passing out was due to hyper exertion? BTW, I am no doctor but I used to play a wilderness first responder for a while.
  2. correct me if I an wrong, but I thought the epi pen was for people allergic to bee stings. If so, why do you carry one since obviously you are not allergic to bee stings. where were you climbing at? That is an objective hazard not really thought about much.
  3. did it on sunday and was all good. snow free to the base of serpentine arete and great neve to the saddle. Snow free to the top. 10 hr car to car. Lots of walking.
  4. no permit needed to camp up there. Plenty of places to pitch the tent up too. I heard the parking area is buggy. Not sure if it is buggy below the spires too.
  5. Going for the snow/glacier walkup of colchuck sunday. PM me if you want to share the ride and hike up
  6. got the hall pass and would like to get up to wash pass (e buttress of SEWS? or others) or snow creek wall (outerspace and/or orbit). open to other suggestions too. Otherwise I'll hike up colchuck pk.
  7. have a atc between the prussik and pulley. works great and no need for heavy single purpose ascenders.
  8. you cannot drive to the base of the route. there is some uphill walking but the road is open to the trail. Our small car was fine getting there. Actually one of the better dirt roads around. (as of a couple years ago)
  9. WI or mixed or alpine tools? I have one pulsar charlet tool I could let go cheap. Unfortunately I do not have a pair though. BUt if you are looking for a alpine setup, then this tool and a regular al[pine axe will get you up most stuff.
  10. +1 to baker and what sobo says
  11. +1 are you talking about the ciervo 18l pack? What is so good about it? It doesn't look that great from a photo but there must be more to it than the photo shows. It seems to lack both any kind of axe loop and some kind of daisy chain.
  12. People die by this "hobby" every week. Offering warnings about the hazards is nothing more than a public service as we give a crap about fellow climbing citizens. Not for self "beating of the chest". From what I have seen, no one is trying to attach a thousand warnings, but usually highlighting the couple of most likely and unique hazards to a situation that the "newbie" is asking about. If someone was asking you about descending down from baker CD, how could you not mention the fact that there is a moat that eats people on the glissade below camp?
  13. I think that Matt's reading comprehension is far superior to anyone on this site. He is a lawyer after all. Reading comprehension? What does "Sorry, for tone, but common, a little reading comprehension, jimminy crickets guys." mean? Wastral, you really need to take some valium or smoke some pot. Would you really get so excited face to face? "up to and and not including class 4" is what the hot head meant.
  14. wow lesson learned. Never sell stuff to people without paypal
  15. plus jason is one cool cat to work with.
  16. beginner is assumed when posting in the newbie forum. intermediate questions would be asked in regular forums.
  17. mank is relative.
  18. I haven't been on the DC in decades but I find it hard to believe that anyone "needs" the ladders to get up that route. I suspect that they are there to straighten the route and/or give the clients a rush. Maybe I am wrong.
  19. nice looking pack! It has things that I was wishing my old beat up genies had.
  20. if one was going to make a supertopo rack for aid climbing town crier, what would say that is? (other than the usual med rack to 3") any specific sizes and/or pieces? thanks
  21. ??? Ladders over crevasses? Maybe in some old photos in the ranger station but it is very unlikely to be any ladders sitting on the glacier to throw over crevasses. Maybe I am missing something. but I believe everyone with the exception of super uber-alpinist will say that rainier is a large step up from other volcanoes. For the reasons mentioned above and also: the intensity of the weather when it turns. the last 1000 feet seems to have just enough decrease in air pressure to notice altitude with that said, you will be fine if you -climb on good weather days -allow lots of time for your trip for slower pace and acclimitization -follow the monster boot pack on the regular routes
  22. not sure if this is needed on belay biners. It seems like the magnets make one handed operation real easy but one handed operation of belay biners is not really needed. Maybe clipping in a daisy or PAS to an anchor would make sense. Would be real nice to see this applied to draw biners though. "Locking" biners on rope ends of draws!
  23. maybe the tag weights 9.5 ounces. mountainsmith stuff has always been heavy. Lucky it is not 3 pounds.
  24. Hey numbnuts needs to learn to read before talking smack. I said for his solo to go up sahale via sahale arm. Who said anything about quien sabe glacier? The quien sabe glacier suggestion was for his guided portion. "dubious" is suggesting we all go into the mountains with walmart tents.
  25. I keep it simple. Duct tape the tear on the inside. Apply copious amounts of seam grip to the outside. Some of my packs are mostly seam grip.
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