genepires

+1 to baker and what sobo says

+1 are you talking about the ciervo 18l pack? What is so good about it? It doesn't look that great from a photo but there must be more to it than the photo shows. It seems to lack both any kind of axe loop and some kind of daisy chain.

People die by this "hobby" every week. Offering warnings about the hazards is nothing more than a public service as we give a crap about fellow climbing citizens. Not for self "beating of the chest". From what I have seen, no one is trying to attach a thousand warnings, but usually highlighting the couple of most likely and unique hazards to a situation that the "newbie" is asking about. If someone was asking you about descending down from baker CD, how could you not mention the fact that there is a moat that eats people on the glissade below camp?

I think that Matt's reading comprehension is far superior to anyone on this site. He is a lawyer after all. Reading comprehension? What does "Sorry, for tone, but common, a little reading comprehension, jimminy crickets guys." mean? Wastral, you really need to take some valium or smoke some pot. Would you really get so excited face to face? "up to and and not including class 4" is what the hot head meant.

wow lesson learned. Never sell stuff to people without paypal

plus jason is one cool cat to work with.

beginner is assumed when posting in the newbie forum. intermediate questions would be asked in regular forums.

mank is relative.

I haven't been on the DC in decades but I find it hard to believe that anyone "needs" the ladders to get up that route. I suspect that they are there to straighten the route and/or give the clients a rush. Maybe I am wrong.

nice looking pack! It has things that I was wishing my old beat up genies had.

if one was going to make a supertopo rack for aid climbing town crier, what would say that is? (other than the usual med rack to 3") any specific sizes and/or pieces? thanks

??? Ladders over crevasses? Maybe in some old photos in the ranger station but it is very unlikely to be any ladders sitting on the glacier to throw over crevasses. Maybe I am missing something. but I believe everyone with the exception of super uber-alpinist will say that rainier is a large step up from other volcanoes. For the reasons mentioned above and also: the intensity of the weather when it turns. the last 1000 feet seems to have just enough decrease in air pressure to notice altitude with that said, you will be fine if you -climb on good weather days -allow lots of time for your trip for slower pace and acclimitization -follow the monster boot pack on the regular routes

not sure if this is needed on belay biners. It seems like the magnets make one handed operation real easy but one handed operation of belay biners is not really needed. Maybe clipping in a daisy or PAS to an anchor would make sense. Would be real nice to see this applied to draw biners though. "Locking" biners on rope ends of draws!

maybe the tag weights 9.5 ounces. mountainsmith stuff has always been heavy. Lucky it is not 3 pounds.

Hey numbnuts needs to learn to read before talking smack. I said for his solo to go up sahale via sahale arm. Who said anything about quien sabe glacier? The quien sabe glacier suggestion was for his guided portion. "dubious" is suggesting we all go into the mountains with walmart tents.

I keep it simple. Duct tape the tear on the inside. Apply copious amounts of seam grip to the outside. Some of my packs are mostly seam grip.

8.1mm x 50m

you'll want to camp on the coleman glacier with the rest of the coleman-deming climbers as that is your descent route. If you camp over at the base of the route, you will have to backtrack to get to your kit. you can camp below the glacier but it will be snow covered so why not make your summit day shorter by climbing up another 600 feet and camping on the glacier. Lots of flat areas but over by the rocks is more flatness and possibly solitude. Somewhere they may be a toilet too. Been a while but there was one near the rocks/towers. Ask a ranger to be sure. You got 2 starts to the route, directly below and a entry in from the left. The direct is steeper but less exposed to hanging seracs. Speaking of that, if you need to belay in the lower 2/3's, you should not be there. There is lots of hanging ice above and you need to hustle through these areas. I have seen big things fall down that face and they are random. Not a daily occurrence, but a hazard to be respectful of. Given good snow conditions, one can simu climb through the lower 1/2 and get out of the hanging ice zones. Maybe deal with a couple big cracks that form in the middle zones, then deal with the upper low angle hard ice field. (that may or may not be buried) Walk over that long distance to the summit and have your buddy massage your sore calves. Don't reciprocate as you need to "get down before dark". Hopefully there should be a well beaten trail down the roman wall, pummice ridge (snow over pummice) and back down the coleman to your tent. Hit the beer shrine for pizza and beer and talk smack with whoever cares. (no one) Good luck and leave us some photos.

leave the rock rack at home. You have better luck getting a ice screw into the rock than rock pro. Plus you should never be within spitting distance of rock. If there is ANY chance of it being cloudy on your summit day, do not go up baker without previous knowledge of the descent. It is big and flat on top and real easy to go the wrong way down in a whiteout. Even after being on top some 30 times, I still made an error going down in a white out. (even with compass was off by 45 degrees but not too bad to correct) But going down the wrong side is not that unlikely if you have never been up there or without a compass. glacier and snow conditions should be superb right now and for the next month. read nelsons select guide to cascades volume 2 for full beta.

by modular do you mean able to change between dual and mono points?

can I sell you my stuff then climb with you?

second ascent?

it is not like a headlamp or a can of beans in there. just a thin windshirt!

wouldn't a reduction of impact force be a good thing? I think you mean that gear in helmet reduces the amount of impact force a helmet can take before failing? I usually stuff my windshirt in my helmet. That can't possibly affect the strength of the helmet. Or am I wrong?

I got an old wild things windshirt. As long as you can stuff it into your helmet, it should be thin enough to be extremely breathable. DWR is a waste of time on a windshirt as it will wear off quickly, makes it less breathable and if you need DWR, then you need a rain jacket. Mine does not have a hood but that would be nice. Full zip is not needed. I paid way to much for it but still worth much more than I paid as I take that thing on every climbing trip. Probably paid something like $.50/trip.