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Bill8

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Bill8 last won the day on August 7 2019

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About Bill8

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  • Birthday 06/08/1982

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    Olympia
  1. Looking for a partner to climb at Vantage or Tieton this weekend. Mostly interested in crack climbing. Can trad lead to 10c/d, but I'm happy to climb easier or harder. I have a car and would like to plan on leaving Seattle around 7 a.m. Send me an e-mail if interested at bill.lucia@gmail.com. -Bill
  2. Suiattle River Road

    There's a plan to pave Suiattle River Road to mile 21 by 2014. This would eliminate the 9 mile walk or bike ride from the closure at mile 12 to the Downy Creek Trail. The environmental impact study and public comments are here... http://www.wfl.fhwa.dot.gov/projects/wa/suiattle/ea.htm The comment period for the amended EIS closed on September 10.
  3. Trip: Dome Peak - Southwest Peak - South Face to Southwest Ridge to Summit Traverse Date: 9/10/2012 Trip Report: Climbed what might have been a couple new pitches on the far left side of the south face of the Southwest Peak of Dome on Saturday. I'm still somewhat uncertain about the names of the features we climbed , but I'll do my best to describe the route we followed. To get to the start of the climbing we descended southeast from the Dome-Chickamin Col on rock bands and snow. We then traversed on exposed and gravelly fourth class ledges to the far left side of the south face of the Southwest Peak. Our climb began with two four star 200 foot pitches. The first climbed a series of cracks, one 5.9+ finger and hand crack that involved some arete climbing and a sketchy loose flake, a perfect 50' 5.8 splitter hand crack, and a cool 50' 5.9 squeeze with a finger crack on the wall for pro. The start of pitch 1: Below the squeeze on pitch 1: The next pitch was 5.9+ hands followed by some nebulous terrain that included a nice 5.9 lieback section. Hand crack on pitch 2: These two pitches deposited us on some third and fourth class terrain on what I believe is the southwest ridge. We unroped and scrambled about 300 feet to get to the bottom of a broken face. I think this is the face mentioned in the description for the 1992 Southwest Ridge route that is in the green Beckey Guide. A delicate section of 5.10a slab, corner, stemming and lie-backing with thin pro lead to easier but loose terrain. Another pitch of loose mid fifth landed us on a tower south of the summit. Some down-climbing and traversing lead to the bottom of a perfect 5.8+ white granite dihedral with a good finger crack. We climbed the dihedral and escaped right using a fun undercling flake to avoid a large roof. Beautiful dihedral: Two more pitches of loose low to mid-fifth brought us to the summit of the Southwest Peak. From the summit of the Southwest Peak we began a simul-climbing traverse. This traverse is in the Beckey Guide. The climbing ranged from enjoyable and exposed hand-traversing on good knife-edge granite, to horrifying sections of crumbling knife-edge dirt and loose rock. Traverse: Our late start meant that we completed the dirt traverse and some of the other final sections of the ridge by headlamp as massive lighting storms lit up the sky in the south and east. More than a bit nerve-wracking, but it all worked out. At the end of the traverse we descended to our camp just below the summit of Dome. A few bonus photos... Glacier at sunset: Ridge at sunset: Bivy at the col: Descending the Dome Glacier: Gear Notes: Doubles from small sizes to #2, 1 #3, 1 #4 Approach Notes: Rode bikes 9 miles up Suiattle River Road, then approached via Downy Creek and Bachelor Creek. The trail up Bachelor Creek was not as bad as I expected. Camped the first night at 6.5 Mile Camp. Camped the second night at the col below the summit of Dome. From 6.5 Mile Camp to the Col took about 12 hours. Awesome bivy spot, but very exposed and windy. Trickles of running water. Hiked and biked out from the Col to the car in one brutal shot. Took about 14 hours. The final mile of the bike ride, by headlamp in the rain, was a bit surreal.
  4. Trip: Juno Tower - Clean Break Date: 9/4/2012 Trip Report: Climbed Clean Break on Juno Tower a few days ago. Nice route, some excellent 4 star pitches and plenty of dirty and mediocre pitches of ridge scrambling toward the top. For me the thin moves in the small corner on pitch 5 felt like the crux. We camped at the col because we were planning on climbing Rebel Yell the next day. If I did the climb again I'd camp at the bench and eliminate the walk back up to the col at the end of the day. This would only add about an hour to the approach in the morning. There is running water on the left side of the last snowfield that you pass before reaching the climb. On pitch 2 we climbed to the top of the somewhat dirty dihedral rather than traversing left. This pitch is fun and would probably be one of the better pitches on the climb if it saw more traffic and some of the lichen got buffed off the right wall. It's also more direct and helps you to link pitches. It felt like 9+/10a, with good finger locks in a corner crack and lichen-crusted crimping, smearing and edging on the face. There is some dirt in the crack but it took good small gear the whole way. You can exit left around the arete near the top of the corner via some cool moves that protect well with a bigger cam (can't remember what size, #2 or #3?). After that I climbed a low angle wide crack and belayed at a big flake and tree with some rap tat. I think this belay was about halfway up pitch 3. If you belayed somewhere below the wide crack you wouldn't have to down climb to start the next pitch.
  5. Trip: North Early Winter Spire - West Face Date: 7/11/2012 Trip Report: Climbed the West Face of NEWS yesterday. It was my first time on the route and this is now one of my favorite rock climbs in the Cascades. The weather was great and fortunately there were very few mosquitoes. Left the car at 6:30 a.m. There is patchy snow on the trail and in the basin but we were very comfortable in approach shoes. We arrived at the base of the spire at 8:15 a.m. and we were on the summit at 1 p.m. We climbed in the shade until the last pitch and the temperature was nice. The climbing is good the whole way. The pitch 5 finger and hand crack is incredible. The crux crack seems soft for 5.11-, and would probably be no harder than 10b at Index. The lichen on the final slab traverse keeps it interesting. Overall, a really fun and varied route. Slings on all the rappel anchors looked good. The gully before the chockstone has some snow, but a single 60m rope rappel will get you down to the dirt so you can walk to the next anchor. Gear Notes: Brought doubles from blue Master Cam size to #2 BD Camalot, one #3 Camalot, set of nuts with a few extras in the smaller sizes. Can't think of anything I would've left behind, or added. Single 60m gets you down fine. Approach Notes: Patchy snow on the trail and beneath the spires, but approach shoes are fine.
  6. Looking for a partner to climb any time after Tuesday next week at Leavenworth or Index. The extended forecast looks great Wednesday through Sunday. I lead 10a/b, glad to follow harder or climb easier, just happy to get out. Have a rope, rack and car. Driving from Seattle. Send me an e-mail if interested: bill.lucia@gmail.com.
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