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Everything posted by genepires
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[TR] Darrington/Illusion Wall - The Page 12/5/2011
genepires replied to bwwakaranai's topic in North Cascades
Nice! that makes 4 routes now on that wall? question about the approach to the wall. There is a slab with a fairly high "approach shoe pucker factor" and some single bolts above. Is there any rational why I could not leave some old rope fixed line there? Is that area a "filter" to keep the riff raff out? Just wondering if I left a rope there, if someone would take it down. -
unless I am missing something, put the hash pipe down Mike.
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better that than collapse on somebody walking ontop of it.
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MEC had a patagonia r1 hoodie knockoff. Don't remember the name but you are a smart enough guy.
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Nice job. Maybe if you enlarge the gripping surface to a larger diameter, the blister issue will go away. Maybe lots of duct tape where you grip the wood. (uh...that just sounds kinda wrong to perverts)
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rejoice in presence of others and cry like a little baby at night.
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a whole new sport....not much avi hazard but something far more dangerous...cross traffic. nice find.
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For the record. 7:07 and my crew is closing shop now after an 11 hr day. But we do get to be outside the next two days! Now I'm joining Sobo Can't be working that hard as he made at least 13 posts to cc.com in that "work day".
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In case anyone was thinking about a little outdoor kids adventure with this good weather, you can still drive to the big 4 TH and a nice boot pack all the way to the ice caves. Very nice little hike right now for the little ones. There were adults and kids sledding down a small smooth patch of snow between large avi debris at the caves area. People like there sledding and I suppose that the chance of a avi coming down is small but the evidence is so clear.
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So is it worth going out to the LTW unless it is above 50deg? Is a 40deg too damn cold to be sticking fingers and hands into cracks there? Anyone been out there recently? Was thinking of going out there later this week. Index in dec sounds sweet. Maybe not.....
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likewise, use the old rope you got laying around that you no longer trust. Maybe some friends have such a rope also. Rock climbing and cayoneering ropes should never intermingle. canyoneering is a very good time. If we had more around here, I would climb lots less.
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rilly? perhaps expertise in swiss balls is your domain:) but i doubt, no matter how fantastical, that they'll be short-listed for the next olympics (along with the stability board or the foam rollers). point being: to do specific ring protocols requires tremendous strength, strength that is highly specific to rock climbing. and no, i don't think this type of strength is developed nearly as effectively with swiss balls (unless you know something i don't!). it would take more than swiss balls to get me as sore as i am today, and i doubt the pain would be confined to my upper body. might be out of place to speak for Mike, but I think he was implying that rings may become the "hot" new tool to sweep over the fitness industry. The marketing tells us that we NEED a foam roller to loosen up the fascia, we need a bosu ball (balance boards too) to develop balance, swiss balls for core work, 5 different medicine balls, 6 stretch bands, and a shakeweight in a pear tree. (really you gotta check out the shake weight!)
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has anything said on cc.com been important? I think not....
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better yet, just sleep in and let thunder legs break the trail for you.
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one can buy straps that are like rings that are on sale for just this week for about $60. http://www.flexcart.com/members/elitefts/default.asp?m=PD&cid=114&pid=916 you could also make your own similar setup by getting two section of 4ft long small chain, couple quick links and some clear tubing large enough to fit over the chain. Make a small loop by getting the chain through the tubing and complete with the quick link. You can adjust height by clipping in a various points in the chain to anchor. This chains one negative is if you are a hairy bastard and are doing pushups on it, you may get some hairs stuck in the links. Nothing a long sleeve shirt doesn't fix.
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you will find that you need a quiver of gloves starting with simple liners for the approach in something like the BD drytool glove for actual ice climbing (maybe even 2 or 3 pairs during the day) something with a shell over for belaying or sloggin up mt washginton. and that mitten you got for times when you should be at home for ice climbing, I bring 3 pairs of gloves like the drytool glove. After a pitch, I drop the glove into the jacket to dry out. I have found that the lighter the glove (to a point), the warmer the hands are which is counter intuitive. But it has to do with hard hard I am gripping the tool. Thicker gloves = tighter gripping = less blood flow = colder hands So I look for a trim fit that does not cut off circulation. gauntlets are for skiing powder. I think the alibi is a good glove but it did not fit me very well. The fingers were cut too short when I tried them 8 years ago. Much like boots, you will need to try them on to see if they will work for you.
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what pray tell are you gonna do up there? Go to a lookout?
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Wait, it was their mistake, but they're unwilling to replace them? Who did you order them from, so I can avoid doing business? Sorry, man! Unless something was edited out, it doesn't look like plaidman said anything about them not replacing the cams. Also, he probably got the cams directly from totem. How many cams were stolen?
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if they were to start forming cracks, you could easily replace them in town. If they break on lead, do you think you could get a screw in and lower off? My opinion is that you could easily climb with them and deal with it if something happens which is very unlikely.
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did your 40th birthday go a little too far? ugh, maybe I am glad I didn't make it.
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This kind of sleeping arrangement is best suited to someone who has considerable experience with sleeping in the extreme cold. It is one of those "if you gotta ask....." situations. Probably not a good way to go for high altitude ventures unless you are doing something like the cassin, but then it is assumed you would have considerable experience in climbing in the denali range. You will get opinions and tales of "when I was there we didn't need anything warmer than a 0 degree bag", but there situation and your possible situations may be completely different. You may find yourself struggling to stay alive while they had a pleasant spring stroll. What do you want to be prepared for? BTW, I didn't need a down jacket on summit day.
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never been out there but from one of the photos, it looks like the wa dihedrals may be to the climbers left of the slot couloir. One photo has a large gully to the right and below. good luck. let us know what you find out please.
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yeah, sauk and not squak. my bad. I got a copy of that kloke book somewhere around here. I should look into making it available online. Not sure how I would do it though. Maybe at least make a list of the peaks in the guide.
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hey here is a novel idea, why not just let the occupiers just stay there? Why is it so important that protests disburse? Taking the protesters away only feeds the message that they are making. Maybe I am wrong, but it seems like the protesters are picking parks and public areas and are a problem to very few people. Not like they are sitting down on a highway.
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Don't hurt yourself. if you do self rescue
genepires replied to keenwesh's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
OMG! Really f'in manly getting out. 3.5 hours for rappels and getting out 2 miles is a fast time. There was a video posted here maybe a couple years ago with a skier with a helmet cam on getting buried in a slide. Damn spookiest moments that I ever saw on the web.