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Everything posted by genepires
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if you ask nicely, you might succeed at some guiding place that rents gear. If the guide service fails, try rei or some other rental places. curious what the science project is.
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good call. warm temps are not kind to the granite to ice bonding.
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buy cheap and buy often. $100 for a ski glove is way overboard. here is one possible glove setup for condtions from spring time to deep winter cold 1 pr thin liner glove ($10) 1pr windstopper gloves ($30) 1 pr fleece liner with shell glove (cheap, goretex not needed really as it should be cold anyway..you skiing in the rain?) 1 pr cheapo OR mittens ($50) for the foulest conditions.
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uh.....there has got to be a story behind that. please do tell John.
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if you want winter hiking boots, then maybe the technical climbing boots that Dane reviews (cold thistle) may not fit your needs. You may need to define your objectives more. for example, you talking about tromping around the white mtns of new hampshire, going up glaciated volcanoes around here or hiking up snow covered trails around local hills?
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di you need a dictionary for "asphyxiate"? You look so cute in that Cristian school boy outfit.
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Fixed it for ya Gener! Sorry for your autoerotic asphyxiation problem. hhmmmm, what are you doing friday night Tyson? (thread drift from this important discussion))
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if my male climbing partner pulls out this "kit"..
genepires replied to genepires's topic in Climber's Board
2 people two nights may mean 2 condoms. 4 people 1 night may mean either 2 on 2 or 3 on 1 which would need 2 or 3 condoms respectively. So it may not work for 4 people 1 night but not if it was a gangbang. -
I have done it and I got off it with 4 ft of shoestrings.
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bravo brother! thanks for writing and making those 5.5 starred routes.
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without rock / ice experience and minimal glacier experience, this cuts out most of the classic routes. You need to look for scrambling routes such as what Dave and Tvash mentions above. Some other options are the descent route from the buckner climbing routes. Goes up to sahale base camp area and then over a ridge, through horseshoe basin and to the top of buckner. You could also do the sahale route while there. sahale arm route in select cascade vol 2 book black peak - south ridge 4th class. select cascade vol2 book dragontail peak - up the back side from asgaurd pass.
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while the answer no one wants to hear but it may be the best answer, you need 2 pairs of boots. for negative F temp which you are mountaineering in, you may need simple plastic double boots. While this may look expensive, you can find them used often either online or at places that rent boots which occasionally (or yearly) sell off the entire stock. for ice climbing, who wants to ice climb in negative F temps anyway? Usually ice boots only need to be comfortable in the 15 to 30 F range. Fit is paramount so telling you what is the best boot is ridiculous. You are gonna have to go to a good climbing store and try on many pairs to find the right fit. While you may get lucky with the simple store try on for fit game, usually one will buy and return a couple pairs before finding that perfect boot. If there is a ice climbing festival, you can try out many different boots in a real ice climbing situation to find that perfect boot and other sweet gear. Maybe be worth whatever expense. Keeping toes and fingers warm is more complicated than simply putting thick layers over those appendages. what you wear on your body and general tension levels throughout have a bigger impact than wearing a non insulated ice boot. With all that out of the way, I have some regular nepal tops and pre evo nepal extremes and I like them. The extreme is my go to boots when it is below 20F. But I like uninsulated ice boots for those 20 to 32F days. Once again. FIT matters more than anything else.
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signed it, now you need 24.
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[TR] Darrington/Illusion Wall - The Page 12/5/2011
genepires replied to bwwakaranai's topic in North Cascades
small world! -
Hey Kevino, hows about a little education on the numbers above. 1st two numbers are the date then the time then the next numbers are temps for different altitudes? What is with the column with the 90's and column before the 0's? thanks,
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assuming your partner does not have any gear to contribute to your second set of certain sizes, I usually like to have double of the #1 tcu up to #2 camalot. (don't know the inch equivelant off the top of my head) Yeah get more experience but place lots of gear, early and often.
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I can't read anything you write due to the "distraction" image. damn!
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[TR] Darrington/Illusion Wall - The Page 12/5/2011
genepires replied to bwwakaranai's topic in North Cascades
uh...so I take it the community would rather I not leave a short fixed line on that bolt. no worries. -
It was my fault Colin wrote out his climbing day. I was curious. Any angst at thread drift should be directed at me.
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I guess you were lucky in that it wasn't completely snapped. I wonder if the relatively speedy descent would have been possible with a fully fractured fibula. Good job getting out of there. I guess all the time in the pain cave paid off. This would be a good posting as a warning in the newbie forum. (not insinuating you are a newbie) Reading this account would stick with newbies and they would never do that.
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summitchaser to the rescue for internut entertainment! I think thread drift is ok as long as it is informative and entertaining, so please Colin, tell us the whole story from the glissade to getting home?
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if I read his post right, I think Colin B soloed the descent route.
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[TR] Darrington/Illusion Wall - The Page 12/5/2011
genepires replied to bwwakaranai's topic in North Cascades
the area went south the minute someone said anything about the illusion wall on cc.com and yours truly showing up there only made it worse. -
alright maybe I am severely mistaken, but I thought that the device in the photo was a small diameter wrist roller? Mikey, are you thinking this is a self massage tool? While we are at it,, what do the professionals think about the armaid and other things like that? (saw a review of these in climbing magazine a couple months back)