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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. better not find it in your pack! this would make a really funny xmas present though.
  2. .....then I gotta get worried. from mountain gear, now you can pay $15 for 3 condoms and some wet wipes. the Backcountry Intimacy Kit from Adventure Medical Kits http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/product/product.asp/imanf/Adventure+Medical+Kits/idesc/Backcountry+Intimacy+Kit/Store/MG/item/115371/N/0
  3. Hey Kurt, in your photo above, what is the unlabeled lime green line? Long time ago, I heard of a good summer line on mixup pk and I was wondering if that was your lime green route? maybe I should do some research in the beckey guide.
  4. good question. That is why it is vital to have enough rescue coils to be able to reach the person in the hole. With another rope that is thrown down a prepared lip (no overhanging lip of snow to cut through) the person can have an easier time prussiking out this extra line without the knots. or being pulled out. This extra rope is also the only way to be able to go to the victim if they are in need of medical help. People who go out with 25m ropes simply do not have enough rope to be able to do this. 50m ropes is a minimum.
  5. Hope you win this battle Dane! Good luck.
  6. genepires

    Ridin the rails

    looks like that guy died base jumping this last weekend.
  7. f'in beautiful country.
  8. great job gentlemen! Local boys doing good.
  9. I thought feathered friends made a 2 man sleeping bag or bivy sack for a while. May have been a limited production for colin and his kind. I had a friend in bellingham who made his own 2 man bivy with goretex.
  10. solid info on that link I have also heard of drawing the alphabet with the foot. (keeping the legs still, trace out the letters of the alphabet with toes)
  11. Hey Alex, I bought some used ski boots for my boy at sports replay. They had plenty of boots that size and I was told that the real growth in that kind of inventory happens in mid november when parents start getting the kids gear in order. Should be plenty of boots available now.
  12. If money is not an issue, you will get a lot from a hired guide or maybe a 6 day mountaineering course which is a good value for the money. I can only speak from my experience in that both AAI's do a good job of this. I would bet money that mountain madness and IMG do a good job too. Been a while but I "think" it costs around a $1000 for a 6 day trip. Would be real easy to find out via their websites. I think a guided ascent of a mountain is not going to fulfill your needs as much as a instruction trip. It has been a LONG time since my mountaineers BCS but I seem to remember it has a good value for the money. I mean it is cheap and if you put work into it, you will get plenty out of it. Either guided or club based instruction is OK as long as you follow the 4th option and keep getting out. Keep using the skills learned in the "class room" and learn stuff that can not be verbalized like intuition. Keep reading various how to books and learn to rock climb.
  13. it doesn't have to be fun to be fun.
  14. did the kids climb anything? Seems with so many kids, peer pressure would force them all to climb.
  15. obviously. BTW, good job on the valley and RR climbs.
  16. what no exploding campfires or big trundles? Awesome job with both the big 100 and video.
  17. Sounds like the pressure is in the leg loops? Maybe a harness with wider leg loops like a big wall harness? Or have her belay directly off an anchor so that the weight is not on her harness?
  18. sorry about not being able to show the video in directly. I am not a computer savy individual. Anyway, Mike on how to be a climbing dirtbag part 1.
  19. other than wanting a remote and cool trip involving paddling, how come you didn't go in via manning park?
  20. that cam in the shop tab is there other style of cam called the totem cam, that has been out for a little while. The alien style cam is called the basic cam.
  21. friction between rock shoe and rock is good.
  22. the only friction that is good is the friction in the belay device.
  23. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/888866/Searchpage/1/Main/67660/Words/weedwack/Search/true/Re_who_sells_wild_country_trig#Post888866
  24. If I understand your language in option 2, then I think it is incorrect. Are you saying the force on the falling climber is less than without rope drag? The total amount of force onto falling climber is the same regardless of rope drag. There is a total kenetic energy that must be "absorbed" by the rope system. The rope system spreads out that total energy to minimize impact force onto both protection and climber. With the rope drag, there is less rope to stretch therefore less time to slow down, therefore higher impact forces onto everything, except the belayer. (like what you said) Assuming a frictionless top piece of protection, then the force on the pro piece would be double the force of the falling climber Now if you are saying that the belayer feels less force in your option 2, then you are correct but who cares if that person is feeling less force. The way I see it, friction is bad because it increases the forces imparted onto both protection and climber. Friction would be good if you were concerned about the rope stretching to much and hitting a ledge or something. good question Mike.
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