genepires

I R no enjuneer (I deal with electricity) but how about I throw out a theory for the failure. Biners are made to hold that limit of force (holding leader fall, whatever greater than 15kn) for a small period of time then quickly return to a couple KN's. Maybe between the possible harmonics (this is a great excuse for non engineers, always sounds plausible) and prolonged force applied to even a closed locking biner, was too much for it.

maybe they had a spare motor at the base. Someone stole the parts for use back in town. Left the frame because it wasn't needed.

yeah I can get my fix back. It was a gloom day yesterday.

so I shouldn't drive by vw bus in the winter in Wyoming? If the cops see the riff raff I hang out with lately, the hippies will ignored.

OK, so I was reading the question / answer wrong. Was just weird how they said that the right way was counter intuitive when it is very intuitive. Do what it takes to keep the nose pointing in the right direction seems like the most intuitive thing to do and has served well for many spin outs. I'll work on the fucking freak out, slam the brakes and spin the wheel frantically. ideally lay on your horn too and just put my faith in the lord.

So I get this monthly newsletter from Pemco and it has this winter driving quiz. First question is below. T/F. If you feel your car starting to skid, turn your wheel in the direction you're sliding. Answer T. Although it may feel counter intuitive, steering into a skid improves your chances of regaining control. So if I am reading this right, if the nose of the car is sliding to the left, I am supposed to turn the steering wheel to the left also? Seems like it would make me spin around. Anyone with experience driving in snow this way? Curious if this is true or am I reading the question/answer wrong. I suppose I should go out to a empty parking lot and try it out.

well on my way to the winter hut merit badge. 1 down and only 12 or so more to go. stunning, struggling, sloppy and surreal. thanks y'all for the good company and trail efforts.

Interesting thought. I believe that most biners are rated stronger than any aluminum ovals. Are you saying that asymmetric biners that are loaded in anything other than the usual way is weaker than ovals which are loaded perfectly quite easily?

"No man is an island, Entire of itself. Each is a piece of the continent, A part of the main. If a clod be washed away by the sea, Europe is the less. As well as if a promontory were. As well as if a manor of thine own Or of thine friend's were. Each man's death diminishes me, For I am involved in mankind. Therefore, send not to know For whom the bell tolls, It tolls for thee. john donne" Never met you, but RIP Mr Roberts.

wouldn't be funny if it wasn't 100% true. Sadly it is very very true. Someone should make a "shit that cc.com spray lords say"

what everyone else says and add: I would add one ribbon flag of very dark color, darkest available. Coming down in white outs, the day glow colors are hard to see. I end up only seeing the vertical wand and not the flags. A inverted "L" would be much more visible than a "I".

Chris is rad, He is a e-fire fighter, a e-all around climber and e-bad ass. By royal procIamation, I don't think I knows e-shit except for the above.

your idea sounds like the best idea. Maybe tie off the brake line for that once in millenia "just in case" it slips. You could also convert the auto lock belay to a inefficient 3:1 and haul the person up a little bit if the need to assist through hard ground was just a little. I had to do that for my partner when he fell off the roof bit on the second pitch of canary. He couldn't get back to the lip due to rope stretch. But I don't know anything by royal proclamation as I am a e-nothing.

never been to places other than hyalite in montana. palisades (flanders) area in hyalite range is good though and may not be considered as "hyalite" even if it is one valley over. I think green and blue gully looks good.

congrats Wayne.

look closely at the words. pile of s*#@ compared to other options. doesn't mean that hyalite is s*#@ but that other options is much better. What is left out is if he is talking about the better options are in other parts of the hyalite range or in other parts of the state.

to bad. I have always thought that cc.com had gold mixed in with the ton of BS, much like the internet in general.

1. one can alpine climb with gloves on, can't rock climb with gloves on 2. same can be said for feet with warm boots 3. mountains are more beautiful in winter. 4. less people on classic alpine routes. (for good reason) 5. backcountry skiing 6. we get to crag for many months and those rare clear winter days are a treat 7. we all want to be the new "twight" at least in our own minds 8. got to use all that expensive crap we just bought at the rei garage sale. You know the stuff that lays around unused for 11 months out of the year.

I like the little man purse ice screw holder thing.

actually the crampons will be great for climbing up the choss pile.

If you are mainly doing the mountaineering use for the harness, give the black diamond alpine bod a look at. Used to be the lightest and most compact harness but not anymore. But still relatively light, compact in pack and fairly cheap. The alpine bod is not a good rock climbing harness but is fine for alpine. It will work for rock climbing and I have used it in rock gyms but there is very short stints of sitting in the harness there. Some cons are: no padding (shouldn't be sitting on harness that much), no belay loop (I just make do with a dedicated locker for belay loop) The Bod harness has padding and belay loop but for the weight and money, I would say get a regular harness. just my opinion.

nice twist on the Pooty Tang.

Nice going Pat. Looks good. My little thing was made by Pika and I don't know if they still make them. Having welding skills and/or friends with skills/tools is a good thing.

stellar photo as usual.

gotta try it out by hanging in the harness, feel for uncomfortable pressure points. I like gear loops that go all the way around the waist belt but that is rare. adjustable leg loops or fixed, probably doesn't matter unless you are going somewhere where you would need to wear down pants. But that isn't "beginner climber" stuff. I never adjust my leg loops with the change of seasons. So if the fixed leg loops fit, they will probably fit year round. oh yeah, gotta have a special pouch for the rasta bivy kit. good luck