genepires

wouldn't be funny if it wasn't 100% true. Sadly it is very very true. Someone should make a "shit that cc.com spray lords say"

what everyone else says and add: I would add one ribbon flag of very dark color, darkest available. Coming down in white outs, the day glow colors are hard to see. I end up only seeing the vertical wand and not the flags. A inverted "L" would be much more visible than a "I".

Chris is rad, He is a e-fire fighter, a e-all around climber and e-bad ass. By royal procIamation, I don't think I knows e-shit except for the above.

your idea sounds like the best idea. Maybe tie off the brake line for that once in millenia "just in case" it slips. You could also convert the auto lock belay to a inefficient 3:1 and haul the person up a little bit if the need to assist through hard ground was just a little. I had to do that for my partner when he fell off the roof bit on the second pitch of canary. He couldn't get back to the lip due to rope stretch. But I don't know anything by royal proclamation as I am a e-nothing.

never been to places other than hyalite in montana. palisades (flanders) area in hyalite range is good though and may not be considered as "hyalite" even if it is one valley over. I think green and blue gully looks good.

congrats Wayne.

look closely at the words. pile of s*#@ compared to other options. doesn't mean that hyalite is s*#@ but that other options is much better. What is left out is if he is talking about the better options are in other parts of the hyalite range or in other parts of the state.

to bad. I have always thought that cc.com had gold mixed in with the ton of BS, much like the internet in general.

1. one can alpine climb with gloves on, can't rock climb with gloves on 2. same can be said for feet with warm boots 3. mountains are more beautiful in winter. 4. less people on classic alpine routes. (for good reason) 5. backcountry skiing 6. we get to crag for many months and those rare clear winter days are a treat 7. we all want to be the new "twight" at least in our own minds 8. got to use all that expensive crap we just bought at the rei garage sale. You know the stuff that lays around unused for 11 months out of the year.

I like the little man purse ice screw holder thing.

actually the crampons will be great for climbing up the choss pile.

If you are mainly doing the mountaineering use for the harness, give the black diamond alpine bod a look at. Used to be the lightest and most compact harness but not anymore. But still relatively light, compact in pack and fairly cheap. The alpine bod is not a good rock climbing harness but is fine for alpine. It will work for rock climbing and I have used it in rock gyms but there is very short stints of sitting in the harness there. Some cons are: no padding (shouldn't be sitting on harness that much), no belay loop (I just make do with a dedicated locker for belay loop) The Bod harness has padding and belay loop but for the weight and money, I would say get a regular harness. just my opinion.

nice twist on the Pooty Tang.

Nice going Pat. Looks good. My little thing was made by Pika and I don't know if they still make them. Having welding skills and/or friends with skills/tools is a good thing.

stellar photo as usual.

gotta try it out by hanging in the harness, feel for uncomfortable pressure points. I like gear loops that go all the way around the waist belt but that is rare. adjustable leg loops or fixed, probably doesn't matter unless you are going somewhere where you would need to wear down pants. But that isn't "beginner climber" stuff. I never adjust my leg loops with the change of seasons. So if the fixed leg loops fit, they will probably fit year round. oh yeah, gotta have a special pouch for the rasta bivy kit. good luck

isn't there some saying about opinions and a-holes? just saying.

I bet a little research would yield some routes for you in exit 32. shorter drive and routes. I am not familiar enough with the area but I seem to remember there being some all gear routes. or you could just ask me to be your belay bitch.

just to add on what Sandy said, I started out like most people and that would be book learned in the alpine skills. I thought I knew the alpine rescue skills. I found that I didn't really know jack sh$t till I had to teach someone these skills and perform those skills many times over a couple years. I suppose that performing the rescues would have a better affect but those opportunities thankfully happen infrequently. Point is, thinking you know the skills and actually being able to perform those skills are not the same. Experience is where the wisdom to use skills and avoid accidents come from. So with sincerity, I would suggest that one would climb rainier many times before even thinking of soloing it. Then you would not have to ask any questions about alpine starts as you would have all the answers already.

being that you are already in BC, bringing the herb to yak should be easy. Not so easy for us yanks to bring the rasta kit for BC adventures

planet of the apes has started.

alright so since you can't see it. Lets take a step back to thte beginning of this disaster of a thread. Philoneus makes a subtle joke of the rasta bivy kit which possibly dates way back to when Layton was still living here. It worked very well with the "jah" in your moosejah. You don't see the humor which is understandable since you are new here Scott kindly tries to show how this is funny by describing the connection between rasta and your log in. Of the many possible responses, one of which is "oh, that makes sense now", you proceed to subtly pitch him shit. So what we need is a big group hug and a start over. You are right about being civil. But beware that the civility will be gone quickly at the first sign of being a a-hole. (FWIW, there has been a recent uprise in new posters who are a-holes. Hence the suspicion that someone is making new avatars and just posting to stir things up. Troll's.) So since you have a specific question. Storm's do roll in quick in that range. Not quick and intense as right on the coast but probably worse than the far interior. I am assuming you live interior BC. April can and will be very wet but you will find that weather window if you are patient. I suspect that you will find a couple bivy platforms on top from climbers who did not climb fast enough so they had to wait it out on the summit. Assuming that there is not snow on top. So go do, take photos and submit a TR when done. Also, while I am far from completely literate (I rarely get "the" right....always make it "teh") you are = you're and not your Happy new ME year y'all.

OK i'll bite on this possible troll thread bring all normal camping gear plenty of flat places on top you should pitch a tent overnight cause you want to take a nice trail up to the top. in teh summer 4 posts and this moosejaw is in steep competition for the a-hole award.

make index and squamish your friends. learn to lead and don't rush into things that are not fun.

nice video. curious though. I admit to being a bit ignorant of the M ratings. I think the main pitch in the video is M6 or M7. What is the equivalent rating for a summer rock climb of that same terrain? Seems like a lot of frozen turf which makes me think it is 4th class or easy 5th.