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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. it doesn't have to be fun to be fun.
  2. did the kids climb anything? Seems with so many kids, peer pressure would force them all to climb.
  3. obviously. BTW, good job on the valley and RR climbs.
  4. what no exploding campfires or big trundles? Awesome job with both the big 100 and video.
  5. Sounds like the pressure is in the leg loops? Maybe a harness with wider leg loops like a big wall harness? Or have her belay directly off an anchor so that the weight is not on her harness?
  6. sorry about not being able to show the video in directly. I am not a computer savy individual. Anyway, Mike on how to be a climbing dirtbag part 1.
  7. other than wanting a remote and cool trip involving paddling, how come you didn't go in via manning park?
  8. that cam in the shop tab is there other style of cam called the totem cam, that has been out for a little while. The alien style cam is called the basic cam.
  9. friction between rock shoe and rock is good.
  10. the only friction that is good is the friction in the belay device.
  11. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/888866/Searchpage/1/Main/67660/Words/weedwack/Search/true/Re_who_sells_wild_country_trig#Post888866
  12. If I understand your language in option 2, then I think it is incorrect. Are you saying the force on the falling climber is less than without rope drag? The total amount of force onto falling climber is the same regardless of rope drag. There is a total kenetic energy that must be "absorbed" by the rope system. The rope system spreads out that total energy to minimize impact force onto both protection and climber. With the rope drag, there is less rope to stretch therefore less time to slow down, therefore higher impact forces onto everything, except the belayer. (like what you said) Assuming a frictionless top piece of protection, then the force on the pro piece would be double the force of the falling climber Now if you are saying that the belayer feels less force in your option 2, then you are correct but who cares if that person is feeling less force. The way I see it, friction is bad because it increases the forces imparted onto both protection and climber. Friction would be good if you were concerned about the rope stretching to much and hitting a ledge or something. good question Mike.
  13. if your rock climbing skills are good, the south face of the tooth is my favorite winter climb. Just takes a couple days of good weather to melt off the snow off the technical parts. plus the route is quiet that time of year, unlike the rest of the year.
  14. the winter makes even the lowest of peaks into grand epic adventures. You could spend many winters just trying to tag all of the hills and peaks by whatever route will get you up. a few to get started all snowshoe ascents granite peak walk up guye peak (which is the L skyline when viewed from road) snoq. mtn from same approach for guye peak walkup little more spicy up the descent route for technical routes on chair peak (don't know real name of line) slot coulior on snoq mtn red mtn really you could just pick any bump/hill/peak and just go for it. take whatever line suites your skill and ambition. But if the forecasts hold true, there won't be much alpine climbing as the avi danger will be off the scale. Be very very mindful of the avalanche hazards. good luck
  15. you don't own a public forum.
  16. just speaking the truth. thought maybe other people would like to know how little you were willing to pay for these biners.
  17. I offered him $5 each with $5 shipping to NY and he declined.
  18. weren't cobras available in 2001?
  19. why travel so far? the exit 38/32 has good sport climbing. I like the sport climbing in leavenworth better than vantage but that me because I like granite better than choss. There is good sport climbing at clems holler area.
  20. http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=47.47916032149414&lon=-120.79193115234375&site=otx&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text here is a pinpoint for prussik pk area. high in the low 40's but should be a little warmer on the rock itself.
  21. do you need these for racking ice screws? Those are pretty crappy rope end of draw biners. (I worry about the rope coming unclipped during a fall)
  22. why not just leave a car (I assume your group has 2 cars) at the chief campground? Is the TH not safe from prowlers still?
  23. dog fight on the internet! holding true to the tradition at cc.com. I thought AK was the land of freedom from the restrictions on the lower 48? Sounds like the same crap as down here.
  24. I have only been up adams once but I did not see a hut up there. This photo shows a cabin up somewhere. Is this on adams?
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