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About bstach

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  • Birthday 11/30/1999


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    Canada, eh
  1. Marc and partner missing in AK

    It sounds like they are still missing, but now being presumed dead? Have they located bodies? I'm confused. I accompanied Marc on one of his failed attempts at Slesse NE Buttress. I think he was 15 at the time. We got backed off by snow and cold just below the bivy ledge. His mom dropped us at the trailhead and fed us lunch when we returned. Very charismatic and ambitious young man even then. Its been really cool to see him develop from there into the climber he became. RIP, Marc. You left us too soon.
  2. festivus in february

    It's pretty fuckin' great.
  3. current song in your head

    You might like this then:
  4. current song in your head

  5. Water Filtration: is it necessary?

    Has anybody used those UV treatment systems? I'm thinking of getting the one that fits inside the lid of a Nalgene bottle. I always treat, except when the water is coming right off the glacier. Chlorine tabs are my method of choice.
  6. Free BC Topo Maps?

    Yes, that's perfect. Thanks, Oly.
  7. Free BC Topo Maps?

    Wondering if there is a source to get BC topo maps online. Specifically looking for the Elfin Lakes area. Just need something that I can print from my computer. I'm sure I have seen links on here before, but can't seem to find it. Thanks
  8. There's this article, but the testing they did was with actual contact with the chemicals. What I get out of this is if it was only exposed to fumes (not getting anything splashed on them) and only for a short period and in a well ventilated area, maybe you are OK. I say if you can afford it, replace it. Sucks for sure though. Cleaning chemicals and climbing gear You should consider contacting the manufacturer directly. If you do, please follow-up here with their response.
  9. I used to store bleach under my bathroom sink. One time I didn't tighten the lid fully. It ate through the sink and created a leak (bottom of the sink is not glazed and the corrosion eventually caused the glaze to crack). But since your basement is a larger area and probably much better ventilated than my bathroom cabinet, maybe you are OK? Its hard to say, but you are rightly concerned. I don't know that there is any way to know for sure other than subjecting the equipment to destructive testing. I'd probably get my cams reslung, draws and webbing replaced etc. My life is worth it. So I guess the question you need to ask yourself is: "Do you feel lucky? Well do ya, Punk?!" - C. Eastwood
  10. Dynamic sport/gym belays

    I called the gym and they told me that it is what is taught by the ACMG (professional accreditation body for mountain guides in Canada). Here is the technique described. They also use something called the Edelrid Ohm to add friction when the climber is heavier than the belayer. Perhaps I'm old school, but is anchoring your belayer to the floor not considered good enough anymore? Has anybody here used this contraption? I guess their gym, their rules. But when I am outside, I'd like to be caught asap, thank you very much.
  11. Dynamic sport/gym belays

    I was looking at the lead climbing course at my local climbing gym in Vancouver (for a friend). I was surprised that the course includes "dynamic belay techniques" which I googled and also found a few threads here on the topic. To me dynamic belays seem dangerous for noobs and unnecessary for 90% of climbing situations, especially gym and sport climbing. Why would a climbing gym be teaching this to noob leaders? Please just catch my fall as fast as you can! Course description
  12. Accident (Death) on Forbidden -- Details?

    Sad indeed. This sounds like a situation where a prussick or autoblock on the rappel would have made a difference. Or knotting the ends of the rope (not always practical, i know). I've been hearing about too many rappelling accidents over the last few years. Play safe everyone.
  13. hot rope deal -NOW!

    Any good rope deals this year, Bill? Preference would be for a 9-10mm 60m Duodess = nice to have Dry = don't care -Brian
  14. Squamish Climbing

    What is considered the most comprehensive guide nowadays? Or best coverage of new route development in the last ten years? The most recent guide I have is The Climbers Guide to Squamish by Kevin McLane published in 2005. And also Whistler Rock Climbs / Squamish North Sport Guidebook by Kevin McLane published 2000