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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. I would bet that the vast majority of alpinists have done short 4 foots glissades while wearing crampons and luckily managed to get away with it. Hopefully everyone can learn from Colin's injury and not do it.
  2. Occupy Snoparks!
  3. DPS is selling a MK1 on the yard sale forum. I know it is different but the price is good.
  4. you have to question if your experience back east is relevant for getting down some cascade concrete mush. But if you come real quick, the snow will be just like back east, hard ice. Wait a couple weeks and it could be much deeper and harder to ski for the typical east coast experienced skier. (before anyone jumps my shite about this, I skied back east for a couple years) But if the conditions are this deep, being alone is a very bad idea anyway. You can have a partner and still be skiing alone. A partner without skills is worthless in a accident situation. (I don't think I have great avi skills anymore as i haven't practiced the rescue aspect in a long time) maybe you could use part of this trip for learning the avi skills? Buy the gear, take a course and then you won't have to subject yourself to the monkeys again. hope it all works out for you.
  5. is this the newer reverso (maybe molded or forged?) or the older folded metal plate kind? I thought the newer reverso looked very similar to the guide in the aspect of preventing the sharp edges from forming.
  6. I have used a kong Gi-Gi (which is one of the original self locking belay plates which the reverso and guides evolved from) for 13 years with no wear at all. If these newer devices are wearing down so often, maybe give the gi gi a try. You will need to carry a regular belay device for rappelling and belaying a leader though. Rappelling is OK but not preferred, but having a spare rappel device can be helpful at times.
  7. my bad........at least I got the state right.
  8. uh.......5 letters is this a joke?
  9. Smith in the summer? Never been there in the summer but it sounds like it can get quite hot then.
  10. I prefer to use quicklinks on all my draws. my seconds love me big time.
  11. ahh right, by closer I meant driving time. I will be more clear from now on. Where is moroe? It is also 72 miles from monroe to bedal but those are some slow driving roads.
  12. http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=47.77071441244973&lon=-121.07345581054688&site=sew&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text some little snow presents from santa are coming.
  13. To become popular , Darrington (broad term) needs a few things: almost road side access (think most craggin areas and WA pass) Bolts every 8 feet (think smith and exit 38) major city within 30 minutes (Leavenworth is closer for me and I live in monroe-via) damn near wheelchair access trails to base all of the above would not matter if seattle and surrounding areas had a climbing population that is not afraid of adventure. So if someone really wanted to make darrington popular, maybe some verbal taunting and betting of manhood on a community level would force the pansies out there. But we don't really want that so this is a moot point.
  14. You will prolly want insulated leather climbing boots. Or invest in some insulated supergaters. Can be damn cold in the whites. +1 on getting a boot that fits is more important than what anyone says about how great their boots are. My scarpa freneys (no longer made) and nepal extremes are great. But that is irrelevant.
  15. same side. as long as it is consistent, the orientation does not matter.
  16. I wanna be on your next rained out climbing trip turned drunken camping redneck fun weekend. if my wife lets me.
  17. if you ask nicely, you might succeed at some guiding place that rents gear. If the guide service fails, try rei or some other rental places. curious what the science project is.
  18. good call. warm temps are not kind to the granite to ice bonding.
  19. buy cheap and buy often. $100 for a ski glove is way overboard. here is one possible glove setup for condtions from spring time to deep winter cold 1 pr thin liner glove ($10) 1pr windstopper gloves ($30) 1 pr fleece liner with shell glove (cheap, goretex not needed really as it should be cold anyway..you skiing in the rain?) 1 pr cheapo OR mittens ($50) for the foulest conditions.
  20. uh.....there has got to be a story behind that. please do tell John.
  21. if you want winter hiking boots, then maybe the technical climbing boots that Dane reviews (cold thistle) may not fit your needs. You may need to define your objectives more. for example, you talking about tromping around the white mtns of new hampshire, going up glaciated volcanoes around here or hiking up snow covered trails around local hills?
  22. di you need a dictionary for "asphyxiate"? You look so cute in that Cristian school boy outfit.
  23. Fixed it for ya Gener! Sorry for your autoerotic asphyxiation problem. hhmmmm, what are you doing friday night Tyson? (thread drift from this important discussion))
  24. 2 people two nights may mean 2 condoms. 4 people 1 night may mean either 2 on 2 or 3 on 1 which would need 2 or 3 condoms respectively. So it may not work for 4 people 1 night but not if it was a gangbang.
  25. I have done it and I got off it with 4 ft of shoestrings.
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