genepires

the early start time in not limited to guided ascents. Most of all climbers leave in the dark morning hours. There are some climbers who choose to leave later in the morning. It's not that the snow is much more dangerous but the snow conditions can suck in the afternoon. Lots of post holing (in the summer) if some thing goes wrong, you have lots of daylight to deal with the problem. (maybe even get a heli in before nightfall and its cold temps) I would rather climb up in the dark than descend in the dark and try to find tent in the dark.

what matt says -plus extensive time spent on washington glaciers and great feel for where the crevasses are. -using skiis to help keep from punching through -belief that god wouldn't do that to you -belief that the mountain wouldn't do that to you -got all your life insurance updated -for crevasse rescue, you got your nitro package ready -only traveling on when beaten climbers track (but what is the point of soloing on a herd trail?) good luck and safe travels

show us a pic damn it! or r u drunk again?

Its pretty funny, and well ironic too, how you promote yourself as such a champion of diversity and defender of the persecuted. But when you actually encounter anyone from outside of your sheltered socio-economic bubble the arrogant judgemental white man comes out. You think way to much about Tvash, in a quantitative and qualitative way.

a good son indeed.

damn bellingham crack heads. Love the bellingham but I have never had as much problem with theft as in the 'ham.

lie to public by taking phrases out of context + making opinions on entire chapters + throw out the word RATIONING every 10 seconds = scared old folks

this is some tame words for spray. Isn't snohomish county kinda far from the hospital? And I live in monroe so I must be missing some teeth.

in the photo, are you logging in to cc.com for some spray-festing? Posting your xmas gift list for spraymasters?

I would bet that the vast majority of alpinists have done short 4 foots glissades while wearing crampons and luckily managed to get away with it. Hopefully everyone can learn from Colin's injury and not do it.

Occupy Snoparks!

DPS is selling a MK1 on the yard sale forum. I know it is different but the price is good.

you have to question if your experience back east is relevant for getting down some cascade concrete mush. But if you come real quick, the snow will be just like back east, hard ice. Wait a couple weeks and it could be much deeper and harder to ski for the typical east coast experienced skier. (before anyone jumps my shite about this, I skied back east for a couple years) But if the conditions are this deep, being alone is a very bad idea anyway. You can have a partner and still be skiing alone. A partner without skills is worthless in a accident situation. (I don't think I have great avi skills anymore as i haven't practiced the rescue aspect in a long time) maybe you could use part of this trip for learning the avi skills? Buy the gear, take a course and then you won't have to subject yourself to the monkeys again. hope it all works out for you.

is this the newer reverso (maybe molded or forged?) or the older folded metal plate kind? I thought the newer reverso looked very similar to the guide in the aspect of preventing the sharp edges from forming.

I have used a kong Gi-Gi (which is one of the original self locking belay plates which the reverso and guides evolved from) for 13 years with no wear at all. If these newer devices are wearing down so often, maybe give the gi gi a try. You will need to carry a regular belay device for rappelling and belaying a leader though. Rappelling is OK but not preferred, but having a spare rappel device can be helpful at times.

my bad........at least I got the state right.

uh.......5 letters is this a joke?

Smith in the summer? Never been there in the summer but it sounds like it can get quite hot then.

I prefer to use quicklinks on all my draws. my seconds love me big time.

ahh right, by closer I meant driving time. I will be more clear from now on. Where is moroe? It is also 72 miles from monroe to bedal but those are some slow driving roads.

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=47.77071441244973&lon=-121.07345581054688&site=sew&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text some little snow presents from santa are coming.

To become popular , Darrington (broad term) needs a few things: almost road side access (think most craggin areas and WA pass) Bolts every 8 feet (think smith and exit 38) major city within 30 minutes (Leavenworth is closer for me and I live in monroe-via) damn near wheelchair access trails to base all of the above would not matter if seattle and surrounding areas had a climbing population that is not afraid of adventure. So if someone really wanted to make darrington popular, maybe some verbal taunting and betting of manhood on a community level would force the pansies out there. But we don't really want that so this is a moot point.

You will prolly want insulated leather climbing boots. Or invest in some insulated supergaters. Can be damn cold in the whites. +1 on getting a boot that fits is more important than what anyone says about how great their boots are. My scarpa freneys (no longer made) and nepal extremes are great. But that is irrelevant.

same side. as long as it is consistent, the orientation does not matter.

I wanna be on your next rained out climbing trip turned drunken camping redneck fun weekend. if my wife lets me.