genepires

I can't speak for all guide outfits and certainly can't speak for how things are run today as I don't guide anymore, but late 90 to early 2000's we were never in the places in question above on weekends. I am not even sure if we could reserve weekends. Is this different? Is the trouble with guide outfits getting permits for midweek? Because I don't remember seeing to many (if any) people out there midweek and it wasn't because we had all the permits. I would definitely agree that guide services reserving weekend permits is complete BS but it would be interesting if this is even a problem. I suspect not.

Is there a situation where on a multi pitch (or a single pitch) where one would use the ropes as a twin and then switch to double rope technique? Or vice versa? My old school mentality doesn't see the benefit to having a rope that is rated with multiple uses. Maybe it means you need less ropes in the quiver. Financially, it seems like you can get 2 setups on sale for the same price as a special multi rated overpriced rope. I suspect the answer to my next question lies in impact force but why can't you use double ropes with twin technique? Seems like when climbing bolted routes, using doubles as twins is OK. Maybe the difference lies in climbing above small nuts.

put the phone down and get back to climbing pat.

that humbug spire looks delicious

what is the advantage of having a rope rated as a twin and a double over one that is just rated as a double?

bookworm 5.7 wide crack as said above, superslab and moscow. spiderman buttress is really nice and fun and worthy of going back again and again. the older guidebooks used to have a list of climbs according to the grade. sadly the new guide no longer has this information. Try to find the late 90's version of the guidebook to help find 5.6's without tedious searching. ANy 5.6 is going to be trad.

Not for me but I am trying to get my 4yo boy into skiing this winter. Internut websites say I should get him a 90 to 100cm ski. So anything less than 110 would work. Don't make me look at craigslist with all the wierdos out there.

oh sheesh, you make me blush.

be aware that lots of these day trips are long DAY trips. May mean headlamp starts and possibly headlamp finishes.

+1 again.

for alpine rock -the tooth -ingals peak, south ridge (would be a long day) -head up to wash pass before it snows and do beckey route on liberty bell get better at rock climbing by cragging. most of the one day climbs around here are rock or scrambling. your one day snow and ice come in around february to july. (condition dependent) Options are much more when we have a high altitude rain followed by clear nights or just a prolonged high pressure system in the winter. Then you got plenty of things to do in snoqualmie pass. A few one day snow/ice trips year round usually involve glacier travel -south side hood -coleman deming on mt baker -easy way up adams (non glaciated side)

is the p1 described the approach 4th class stuff and p2 the first 5th class pitch of route? Only asking because you said that 2 ropes can fix to the top of pitch 3 yet your pitch by pitch lengths make it look like it goes 4 pitches. nice work on the TRL bolt station!

don't encourage Mikey. He actually sounded like a responsible family man. You might push him back to his crazy gear whore, hard cascade choss pile sending, maniac again. The mormons have put him in a civil place....for now.

because if you want to train for "breaking pow, heavy packs, plastic boots", then go load up your pack with 80 pounds, put on your plastic boots and go stomp around in some heavy snow which should be here in a couple weeks. (on way to muir) Or at least simulate the single important aspects like wear your boots while wearing a 80# pack and hike up stadium stairs. But your question had the implication that the "breaking pow, heavy pack and plastic boots" was a certain aspect of your bigger goal. Training should have a goal otherwise it is general fitness. For example. If your goal is to climb rainier, the training will be different than a goal of climbing chair peak. Besides "breaking pow, heavy packs, plastic boots" suck IMO. but to each their own.

no, it is not defined. Ice climbing in washington involves "breaking through snow, heavy packs, plastic boots...". MIxed climbing can involve "breaking through snow, heavy packs, plastic boots...". Climbing rainier in winter involves "breaking through snow, heavy packs, plastic boots...". Hell, even sport climbing can sometimes involve "breaking through snow, heavy packs, plastic boots...". If anyone is really getting interested in "breaking through snow, heavy packs, plastic boots...", I sincerely hope their avi skills are fine tuned.

define "winter climbing" I would say hanging for time from ice tools, hitting the rock gym and doing calf work. Me thinks you want to climb mtns not icicles.

rock doesn't look very erie like. Plus I think there is mtns in the background instead of islands. My guess is on the mtn that he died on. PLaedies or larrabee? very nice memorial. We should all have friends that are so generous.

what was the average mileage and vertical per day? JUst curious what your short dog is capable of doing. I doubt my small dog could handle that but she is a boston terrier with a squash nose. Maybe that cooling vest people could make a day glow hunting version? nice tr. thanks

if you need plastic boots, you should prolly think twice about being up there at all. bring the synthetic jacket.

There are lots of these men today. I am getting up stuff (not hard stuff) with old grivel cookie cutter crampons and leashes on 1st generation quarks. You should see what choada boy climbs with. Last time I saw alan kearney, he had some old stuff on his feet too. you will be in good company with your "ancient" tools.

this saturday is spending quality daddy/husband time. (another way of saying I am their little bitch)

your biggest problem with double lines is the cutting over edges. Sounds like your objectives are pretty safe from this. The forces on ropes due to falls are a lot less in the alpine than vertical rock climbing. Sliding (assuming that climber is trying to stop/self arrest) and colliding with objects will reduce the impact onto the rope. With that in mind, I use the half rope in one strand for low impact situations and when it gets steep, tie into both ends for one climber and at the half way for the other climber, and make it 30m pitches till the angle eases back. one strand of skinny rope is a great line for glacier travel. The biggest danger of cutting this rope is during the stage where you clear rope from cutting into the snow. The line under tension is more likely to be cut by a shovel or axe if you are using these. I use the heals of my feet to clear away the snow so there is no chance of cutting the rope. Nothing we do is "safe". We try to make it safe enough so that we can move fast enough through the anticipated risk. There is a full range of safety that we fluctuate through and hopefully have the right amount of safety at the time if actually needing it.

amazing! that 4 year old climbs harder in the gym than me. And no back clips either.

In most "emergency situations" is never a good idea to put rescuers in risk. Dealing with two victims is exponentially more troublesome than dealing with one victim. Given that these situations are evolving so quick, there is very little chance for these kinds of rational thought. But, if I am falling down a hill, I hope that you are below me.

So I got fridays free for the next couple weeks. Would like to make a habit of spending time on index 5.9's. Who wouldn't? PM me and if it isn't too wet over there. gene