genepires

isn't there some saying about opinions and a-holes? just saying.

I bet a little research would yield some routes for you in exit 32. shorter drive and routes. I am not familiar enough with the area but I seem to remember there being some all gear routes. or you could just ask me to be your belay bitch.

just to add on what Sandy said, I started out like most people and that would be book learned in the alpine skills. I thought I knew the alpine rescue skills. I found that I didn't really know jack sh$t till I had to teach someone these skills and perform those skills many times over a couple years. I suppose that performing the rescues would have a better affect but those opportunities thankfully happen infrequently. Point is, thinking you know the skills and actually being able to perform those skills are not the same. Experience is where the wisdom to use skills and avoid accidents come from. So with sincerity, I would suggest that one would climb rainier many times before even thinking of soloing it. Then you would not have to ask any questions about alpine starts as you would have all the answers already.

being that you are already in BC, bringing the herb to yak should be easy. Not so easy for us yanks to bring the rasta kit for BC adventures

planet of the apes has started.

alright so since you can't see it. Lets take a step back to thte beginning of this disaster of a thread. Philoneus makes a subtle joke of the rasta bivy kit which possibly dates way back to when Layton was still living here. It worked very well with the "jah" in your moosejah. You don't see the humor which is understandable since you are new here Scott kindly tries to show how this is funny by describing the connection between rasta and your log in. Of the many possible responses, one of which is "oh, that makes sense now", you proceed to subtly pitch him shit. So what we need is a big group hug and a start over. You are right about being civil. But beware that the civility will be gone quickly at the first sign of being a a-hole. (FWIW, there has been a recent uprise in new posters who are a-holes. Hence the suspicion that someone is making new avatars and just posting to stir things up. Troll's.) So since you have a specific question. Storm's do roll in quick in that range. Not quick and intense as right on the coast but probably worse than the far interior. I am assuming you live interior BC. April can and will be very wet but you will find that weather window if you are patient. I suspect that you will find a couple bivy platforms on top from climbers who did not climb fast enough so they had to wait it out on the summit. Assuming that there is not snow on top. So go do, take photos and submit a TR when done. Also, while I am far from completely literate (I rarely get "the" right....always make it "teh") you are = you're and not your Happy new ME year y'all.

OK i'll bite on this possible troll thread bring all normal camping gear plenty of flat places on top you should pitch a tent overnight cause you want to take a nice trail up to the top. in teh summer 4 posts and this moosejaw is in steep competition for the a-hole award.

make index and squamish your friends. learn to lead and don't rush into things that are not fun.

nice video. curious though. I admit to being a bit ignorant of the M ratings. I think the main pitch in the video is M6 or M7. What is the equivalent rating for a summer rock climb of that same terrain? Seems like a lot of frozen turf which makes me think it is 4th class or easy 5th.

pitch the tent right behind the car. The highway is right there! why camp on top? to see the lights of people driving by in their warm cars? sorry, not trying to be an ass but I think I failed.

From the current road conditions page at http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/mbs/home/?cid=stelprdb5150593 Clear creek rd NOT CLEARED 12/06/2011 Snow - Closed by landslide/washout at mile 1.9. Not passable to vehicles.

now that is funny.

there is some outfit on the eastside (kirkland maybe) that was a nonprofit for getting poor kids in the outdoors. They were asking for contributions and gear a couple years ago.

you forgot to include to not glissade with crampons on. maybe get new girlfriend when she doesn't like climbing. just rattling the hornets in the pain cave.

I need to update my list for the year 1. be around ME 2. talk about ME 3. feed ME 4. complain about how fat ME is. 5. tell those who care about ME 6. tell people who don't care about ME 7. buy gear for ME 8. talk about ME gear 9. ME 10. ME 11 and finally, more ME happy new ME year y'all!

if one needs a more dynamic system, just get a rope that stretches more. Adding more links to the system creates more points to possible fail. Adding a item that elongates at either the belayer or climber end, clearly has the possibility of failure. Why don't people lead with lockers between tie in knot and belay loop? If we can't trust a locking biner, how can anyone trust load limit device? This thread is becoming what I am talking about. The longer it gets, the more points of failure till it has absolutely failed right now. P.S. And I am not talking about screamers. Notice the "load limit device" use.

well said.

mountain gear store in spokane? I thought there was a big climbing store in yakima. was that mtn supply?

1. grand wall. embarrassed as to never have done this classic 2. finish off liberty crack (same as above) 3. do all the blue tape routes in the seattle/everett gyms. epic! 4. another illusion wall route 5. tellot glacier area in waddington range? anyone interested?

Sounds like the mountain took the shooter. I know I will catch hell for this but... RIP poor PTSD vet soldier. Condolences to both families.

no special device is needed to create what you are describing. A simple device like a atc will feed out a slight amount of slack in a hard fall. This is why it is a good idea to not have your brake hand within a couple inched of the device. Belay gloves too. The rope will slip through the device as the force is reduced to a point where no more slip happens. It sounds like you are wanting to use a gri gri for trad climbing or something.

probably the best answer is Alex's which would be the insane number of load limiters you would need to a typical sport climbing day. Every lead fall would activate the device. If this catches on, then I will need to buy stock in yates. (yeah I know it is not a publicly traded company)

a load limit device (at 4kn) at the belay would theoretically limit the top piece to 8kn a load limit device (same 4kn) at the top piece would limit it to 4kn. which setup sounds better? Friction inherent in the system will dramatically affect these numbers and always in a negative undesirable way but the idea is the same. The top piece will be taking more force if you use the load limiter on the belay. Actually a better way to ask is should we put a load limiter on the climber? The answer is still no.

likewise.

probably the issue I would have with this plan is that I would have to carry up an extra 15lb (maybe more) of gear up that 9000ft. That extra weight will be felt.