genepires

OK i'll bite on this possible troll thread bring all normal camping gear plenty of flat places on top you should pitch a tent overnight cause you want to take a nice trail up to the top. in teh summer 4 posts and this moosejaw is in steep competition for the a-hole award.

make index and squamish your friends. learn to lead and don't rush into things that are not fun.

nice video. curious though. I admit to being a bit ignorant of the M ratings. I think the main pitch in the video is M6 or M7. What is the equivalent rating for a summer rock climb of that same terrain? Seems like a lot of frozen turf which makes me think it is 4th class or easy 5th.

pitch the tent right behind the car. The highway is right there! why camp on top? to see the lights of people driving by in their warm cars? sorry, not trying to be an ass but I think I failed.

From the current road conditions page at http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/mbs/home/?cid=stelprdb5150593 Clear creek rd NOT CLEARED 12/06/2011 Snow - Closed by landslide/washout at mile 1.9. Not passable to vehicles.

now that is funny.

there is some outfit on the eastside (kirkland maybe) that was a nonprofit for getting poor kids in the outdoors. They were asking for contributions and gear a couple years ago.

you forgot to include to not glissade with crampons on. maybe get new girlfriend when she doesn't like climbing. just rattling the hornets in the pain cave.

I need to update my list for the year 1. be around ME 2. talk about ME 3. feed ME 4. complain about how fat ME is. 5. tell those who care about ME 6. tell people who don't care about ME 7. buy gear for ME 8. talk about ME gear 9. ME 10. ME 11 and finally, more ME happy new ME year y'all!

if one needs a more dynamic system, just get a rope that stretches more. Adding more links to the system creates more points to possible fail. Adding a item that elongates at either the belayer or climber end, clearly has the possibility of failure. Why don't people lead with lockers between tie in knot and belay loop? If we can't trust a locking biner, how can anyone trust load limit device? This thread is becoming what I am talking about. The longer it gets, the more points of failure till it has absolutely failed right now. P.S. And I am not talking about screamers. Notice the "load limit device" use.

well said.

mountain gear store in spokane? I thought there was a big climbing store in yakima. was that mtn supply?

1. grand wall. embarrassed as to never have done this classic 2. finish off liberty crack (same as above) 3. do all the blue tape routes in the seattle/everett gyms. epic! 4. another illusion wall route 5. tellot glacier area in waddington range? anyone interested?

Sounds like the mountain took the shooter. I know I will catch hell for this but... RIP poor PTSD vet soldier. Condolences to both families.

no special device is needed to create what you are describing. A simple device like a atc will feed out a slight amount of slack in a hard fall. This is why it is a good idea to not have your brake hand within a couple inched of the device. Belay gloves too. The rope will slip through the device as the force is reduced to a point where no more slip happens. It sounds like you are wanting to use a gri gri for trad climbing or something.

probably the best answer is Alex's which would be the insane number of load limiters you would need to a typical sport climbing day. Every lead fall would activate the device. If this catches on, then I will need to buy stock in yates. (yeah I know it is not a publicly traded company)

a load limit device (at 4kn) at the belay would theoretically limit the top piece to 8kn a load limit device (same 4kn) at the top piece would limit it to 4kn. which setup sounds better? Friction inherent in the system will dramatically affect these numbers and always in a negative undesirable way but the idea is the same. The top piece will be taking more force if you use the load limiter on the belay. Actually a better way to ask is should we put a load limiter on the climber? The answer is still no.

likewise.

probably the issue I would have with this plan is that I would have to carry up an extra 15lb (maybe more) of gear up that 9000ft. That extra weight will be felt.

the early start time in not limited to guided ascents. Most of all climbers leave in the dark morning hours. There are some climbers who choose to leave later in the morning. It's not that the snow is much more dangerous but the snow conditions can suck in the afternoon. Lots of post holing (in the summer) if some thing goes wrong, you have lots of daylight to deal with the problem. (maybe even get a heli in before nightfall and its cold temps) I would rather climb up in the dark than descend in the dark and try to find tent in the dark.

what matt says -plus extensive time spent on washington glaciers and great feel for where the crevasses are. -using skiis to help keep from punching through -belief that god wouldn't do that to you -belief that the mountain wouldn't do that to you -got all your life insurance updated -for crevasse rescue, you got your nitro package ready -only traveling on when beaten climbers track (but what is the point of soloing on a herd trail?) good luck and safe travels

show us a pic damn it! or r u drunk again?

Its pretty funny, and well ironic too, how you promote yourself as such a champion of diversity and defender of the persecuted. But when you actually encounter anyone from outside of your sheltered socio-economic bubble the arrogant judgemental white man comes out. You think way to much about Tvash, in a quantitative and qualitative way.

a good son indeed.

damn bellingham crack heads. Love the bellingham but I have never had as much problem with theft as in the 'ham.