Whatcomboy

Can't blame Shuksan. She is a beauty.

I've looked at that many times and always wondered myself.

Climbed it last July and feel it is has a bit less hazard than CD route as far as that goes. Route finding shouldn't be an issue. If bringing first timers for sure spend some time in camp with some ice axe/rope work etc. cause the crevasses will make their eyes pop. You walk right next to the edge of the crater near the top so take a few minutes and climb down in.

This is very interesting to learn but not surprising given government bureaucracy/ lawyers and liability issues/ law enforcement hierarchy/ etc. and the very high costs involved when a major rescue is needed. Local SAR can never be replaced.

Reminds me of the 1977 Yosemite story about plane going down in a lake with bales of pot and climbers hiking up to the crash site.

Love it. Now that's a north cascades traverse to be proud of. OldandSlow gets it done.

Just got back Saturday from climbing Easton route and camped at about 6000. There were parties camped much higher and there is plenty of flat areas you could choose to bivy as you head up the glacier.

C/D Glacier? you talking Coleman Deming? Sorry if I'm ignorant of climbing acronym lingo.

Climbed on Saturday the 4th with Norman. Still good. Summit to ourselves.

No offense Tom but you just need to toughen up. Postholing, snowshoes, closed roads is all part of North cascades fun. My experience with asking at the ranger station is very hit and miss. Lot of the time the person you talk to has no idea of conditions except Rainier.

Everybody likes to knock RMI here cause they are the biggest and were the only guide company allowed for years on Rainier. There are several other guiding outfits on Rainier so check them all out and pick one and you will have a great experience on the mountain. If you go with a 5-6 day trip you will get climbing education and a summit chance. The guides give you a list of personal gear you must bring. That's it. They provide the group gear. Any person with decent fitness can climb Rainier by the standard routes.

As usual DPS is right on. Don't overboot your feet. I climbed Shuksan last September with my Lowa boots, med weight goretex mountain boot that is good for kicking with crampons and nimble enough for the 4th class rock in the chimneys and summit pyramid. Best way to get pack weight down is carry smaller pack, 40L max. Bigger the pack the more guys stuff in there. I'm always in the mid 30lb range for a 1-2 night trip unless we need a lot of pro. We simo-climbed the gully so didn't use much gear, couple of cams and nuts with several long slings. Some years hell's highway gets real icy so I'd bring a couple screws

That was a very well written TR. Liked the black and white photo's..Terror Basin is a special area.

Haven't been to Stuart area but Washington pass was plenty smoky this past week and with Canada burning up the smoke is getting worse. That said, weather forecast is calling for offshore air to push some of this crap out. Hate to say it but we need some rain!

Excellent story and photo's as usual Jason.