Whatcomboy

Just got back Saturday from climbing Easton route and camped at about 6000. There were parties camped much higher and there is plenty of flat areas you could choose to bivy as you head up the glacier.

C/D Glacier? you talking Coleman Deming? Sorry if I'm ignorant of climbing acronym lingo.

Climbed on Saturday the 4th with Norman. Still good. Summit to ourselves.

No offense Tom but you just need to toughen up. Postholing, snowshoes, closed roads is all part of North cascades fun. My experience with asking at the ranger station is very hit and miss. Lot of the time the person you talk to has no idea of conditions except Rainier.

Everybody likes to knock RMI here cause they are the biggest and were the only guide company allowed for years on Rainier. There are several other guiding outfits on Rainier so check them all out and pick one and you will have a great experience on the mountain. If you go with a 5-6 day trip you will get climbing education and a summit chance. The guides give you a list of personal gear you must bring. That's it. They provide the group gear. Any person with decent fitness can climb Rainier by the standard routes.

As usual DPS is right on. Don't overboot your feet. I climbed Shuksan last September with my Lowa boots, med weight goretex mountain boot that is good for kicking with crampons and nimble enough for the 4th class rock in the chimneys and summit pyramid. Best way to get pack weight down is carry smaller pack, 40L max. Bigger the pack the more guys stuff in there. I'm always in the mid 30lb range for a 1-2 night trip unless we need a lot of pro. We simo-climbed the gully so didn't use much gear, couple of cams and nuts with several long slings. Some years hell's highway gets real icy so I'd bring a couple screws

That was a very well written TR. Liked the black and white photo's..Terror Basin is a special area.

Haven't been to Stuart area but Washington pass was plenty smoky this past week and with Canada burning up the smoke is getting worse. That said, weather forecast is calling for offshore air to push some of this crap out. Hate to say it but we need some rain!

Excellent story and photo's as usual Jason.

Most excellent! Great pic's..Thanks for posting and thanks CascadeClimber's for this awesome site of climbing TR's.

Top of Baker certainly does have a huge flat area for landing a chopper. Good that they dug in overnight in a storm but I have to ask, with the crappy weather forecast and heavy rain all day Sunday around Mt. Baker, why did the team go for the summit? Hope those kids recover quickly.

Who said old guys can't keep climbing? Way to go

In your time frame your going to hit a lot of snow for many of these choices. Some will require ice axe and light crampons for sure because of steep snow. You say your boy has no self arrest ice axe experience? Perfect time to learn it. Have him read 'Freedom of the Hills', youtube or whatever, then first day go find some steep snow with safe runout and practice. Now your ready to climb mountains. Sahale is a good climb in a fantastic setting. Ruth Mountain close to Baker is good. Day climb with very easy short glacier. I took my kids there to learn glacier snow travel. At Washington Pass, South Early Winter Spires, South Arete. Snow hike with 3 pitch mid 5 rock. Liberty Bell, Beckey Route, I would bring ice axe and crampons for the short steep gully to gain the start of route. It can be icy because of shade. Cuthroat Peak on the other side of road. North Twin Sisters fun class 3-4 scramble, helps to have mountain bikes. I love reading Fred's books but beware, if your not familiar with North Cascades mountains they can be a bit vague for route description and approach/descent.

Yup. Sure does. Easy transition into the gully where it gets really narrow half way up.

We just climbed the Southside route today and conditions were excellent. Snow was firm crust with good traction. Hogsback is very wide, no issue with the bergschrund, and the Gates was solid to the summit. There is a lot of ice in it that will have to start falling as the season goes. Forecast is changing now but I would go at the next chance of good weather.