Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'alpine'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General Discussion
    • Climber's Board
    • cc.news
    • Events Forum
    • Access Issues
    • Climbing Partners
    • Rock Climbing Forum
    • Ice Climbing Forum
    • the *freshiezone*
    • Newbies
    • Kids
    • Mountain Photography
    • Personal Climbing Web Pages
    • Author Request Forum
    • Climbing Gyms
  • Route Reports
    • Alaska
    • British Columbia/Canada
    • North Cascades
    • Alpine Lakes
    • Southern WA Cascades
    • Mount Rainier NP
    • Olympic Peninsula
    • Central/Eastern Washington
    • Oregon Cascades
    • Columbia River Gorge
    • California
    • Idaho
    • Montana
    • The rest of the US and International.
  • The Rack
    • The Gear Critic
    • The Yard Sale
    • Local Gear Shops
    • On-Line/Mail-Order Gear Shops
    • Lost and Found
  • Fitness and Nutrition
    • Fitness and Nutrition Forum
  • Spray
    • Spray

Calendars

  • PNW Climbing/Skiing Event Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Homepage


Occupation


Location

  1. Does anyone have anyone suggestions for good climbs in North Cascades National Park off highway 20 that are safe to solo??
  2. Hey All! I just moved to corvallis and I am itching to climb as much crack and alpine when the season comes. I just started trad climbing this past summer so I’m not the most confident on lead, but can comfortable lead 5.8 and have led a few 5.9s. I can generally follow up to 11s. Looking forward to exploring what the pacific NW has to offer!
  3. Hey there! I'm a 32 YO male living in the town of Mt. Shasta. Looking for a mountaineering partner to explore more of Mt. Shasta's glacial and alpine offerings. My goal is to climb all 14 routes (already have 3 down). Also, looking for a partner to climb with at Smith Rock and to tackle other objectives within The Cascades. Former Marine, experienced thru-hiker, high level of experience in map and compass navigation, skier, traditional climber, intermediate glacier travel/alpine mountaineer. Safety is paramount. Proper trip planning is essential. Courses- -Crevasse Rescue / Glacier Travel / Working on Ice -Wilderness First Aid -Rock Rescue -Avalanche I -Lead Climbing Ability- -Lead traditional at 5.8, follow at 5.11b -Lead ice at WI3, follow at WI4-5 -Lead mixed at M3, follow at M5 Have all gear for alpine endeavors in the continental U.S. If you have any interest in teaming up please send a text to: (831) 345-9638. My first name is Theo.
  4. My trip to visit family in CA was canceled, and I'd like to spend time this next week to climb. Weather is harsh now but hopefully clear mid-week, clear enough to settle avalanches. I was hoping to climb Hood on the drive back, but I'd still go there. An alternative would be Trout Creek or Vantage. Just want to climb and I've got a week off.
  5. Hi! My climbing partners are slowly moving away, so looking for new partners Am based in Vancouver, BC, stoked to be in the mountains in general (cragging after work, long alpine routes, bc skiing, ice climbing, you name it!) Rock: can comfortably lead 10 sport/ 9 on gear, have a double rack and all the gear to do multis Ice: very limited experience, can follow up to WI4 but can't lead (yet) Very safe belayer, have a car, can shuttle you to the crag as well Shoot me a message here or @ 778-nine nine 7- five 5 two eight if you're interested. Lets go climb! J
  6. Just did West ridge of Stuart and Shucksan via sulfide they were a blast!. Looking to do infinite Bliss, El Dorado, Liberty Bell and really whatever else will go before fall ends. Send a PM with describing what experience you have. Do you have crevasse rescue experience, multi-pitch sport/trad, Ice, what mountains have you climbed in Washington, ect If interested shoot me a text or call at 425-362-8406
  7. Looking for tips from more experienced climbers on introducing inexperienced people to alpine climbing in the PNW, or just alpine mentoring more generally. Both wisdom and ideas on local routes that are useful resources. If any of yall are guides would especially love your feedback. I have enough experience to feel confident with peers on moderate alpine terrain. I'm looking to take an inexperienced partner into the alpine though. I'm expecting some hiccups with gear selection, headgame, etc, but also miscalibration of my own expectations of his performance, and am here fishing for thoughts that might whittle down the unknown unknown element a bit if possible. I'm also concerned about solo decision making, since the usual paradigm is consensus decision making among peers to help catch mistakes early (same way you have your partner check your knots). Guides seem to have some secret for getting around the usual human foibles of this scenario though, and decision making is complicated hence why I'm asking about "wisdom". Let me put this into a more concrete context. I'm an amateur climber coming out to the PNW for my first time end of May for a bit over a week. I've been alpine climbing for six years, mostly in Colorado and Chamonix, but various other places too. With peers of equal ability I tend to succeed on grade IV/D+ rock, ice or mixed and shoot higher. My partner for this trip however is not experienced, and I would be introducing him to alpine climbing during this trip. We've cragged together plenty over the last two years, including backcountry multipitch rock to 5.8, III and roadside ice to 4+, III in Northern New England (where I live now), and on which he leads easier pitches (rock) or follows (ice) proficiently, but he's still inexperienced leading trad rock and is on the cusp of his first WI leads. Would like to use the trip to get his feet wet on something alpine without being reckless, particularly since he's moving to Seattle and will have plenty of opportunities to build on it. Could be rock, mixed or mountaineering, but right now my thought is to look for III/AD+ volcano routes like maybe the N Ridge of Baker or Emmons Glacier on Rainier, with maybe the promise of some skiing on the way down. Route suggestions or criticism are welcome though. Different areas tend to have their own established routes that climbers will get on as part of a progression to ease into alpine climbing. For instance in Chamonix it might be the Cosmiques Arete for classic mixed or the Papillon Ridge for rock. In Colorado it might be the North Ridge of Spearhead or Marthas. I could list off a series of other routes in each area that are frequently on the list that follow these, are classic, and reasonable stepping stones. I don't know the PNW scene though, nor do I know the season, so any useful beta on routes that are useful resources for coaching novice alpine climbers would also be useful. My read on the N Ridge of Baker is that it might be like an appropriate 3rd mountaineering route, Emmons might be a good first or second. Something like West Ridge of Forbidden might be a good first alpine rock route. But these things are hard to judge from a distance, and I'm sure there are plenty of routes I don't know about.
  8. Too small, dang. Nearly new condition. Seattle. Salud! Mark
  9. For sale is a pair of Lowa Alpine Expert GTX mountaineering boots, men's size 12 (US). These are brand new boots, never used, with the tags still on, no defects. The original box was thrown away. MSRP is $440. From the Lowa website: A new take on a versatile all-around alpine boot, this insulated model’s design balances flexibility with durability, and excels in both hiking comfort and climbing performance. The Fit Wing features allows for easy ankle articulation, making it ideal for heavy backpacking trips as well as for mixed climbing. Automatic crampon-compatible. Durably waterproof/breathable. Upper: Mountaineering Split Leather/Microfiber Lining: GORE-TEX, PrimaLoft® 400g Insole: Insulate Pro Alu-Coated w/Fleece Midsole: DuraPU® Outsole: VIBRAM® Alp Trac® Ice Stabilizer: Mountaineering Hard Winter Weight: 870 g/Single Shoe Country of Origin: Italy Resoleable: Yes
  10. Trip: Mt. Rainier - Kautz Route Trip Date: 07/25/2020 Trip Report: Bare Bones Cross-posting this from where I keep my trip reports, so if format is wonky below it's cause I'm lazy to reupload photos/format: https://www.natexploring.com/tripreports/kautz-route-mt-rainier Route: AI2-3 Grade II-III; Ice, Alpine, 9000 ft* Ascent via the Kautz Route. Carry over and descent via the DC. *According to Mountain Project/Summit Post Length: Two days with an overnight at Camp Hazard at 11,200’ Dates: July 24-25th, 2020 Climbing Gear: Here’s my regular PSA that just because someone on the internet used a certain rack (or lack thereof) does not mean it’s the right rack for you. Air Tech Light Crampons (yes, they’re aluminum and light. Aluminum is known for bouncing off hard ice, so either be very comfortable reusing axe pick holes for feet or bring something steel) Grivel Ghost Evo Axe with trigger (great to have one of these for the approach since it’s also aluminum & therefore light/a good plunge-stepping and self-arresting tool, but I was glad I brought the tech machine as a second ‘real’ tool) Carbon Tech Machine 4x screws ranging from 13-17cm 5 draws; 2x double-lengths 60m Beal Opera 8.5mm dry-treated rope 1 picket (not used, but I’m told real Cascades climbers always bring one 🤷‍♀️) The Details Deb and I left the parking lot around 9:30am ish. Who doesn’t like to start up a route in a complete ping-pong ball whiteout? The first 4500’ vertical feet looked like this. It felt like we were climbing a never-ending snow slope with surprise crevasses that would sneak up on us (not hard since we could barely see 10 feet in front of us). Being able to read a topo map was essential for navigation and we got to the base of The Fan no issues. There are two main approaches, we crossed the Nisqually Glacier on a flat traverse at 6,300 feet to the base of a large gully called The Fan. It wasn’t really ‘in’ per say, and there was a lot of rockfall everywhere, so we moved fast and up this gully to reach the bench at 7,400’. I think other parties have been taking the Wilson Glacier approach because I saw no bootpack at all the whole way (only some goat tracks), even in very narrow snow constrictions. Eventually we broke out of the cloud soup to blue skies and a view of Rainier. No more ping-ponging through clouds. That’s cause to celebrate We slogged pretty uneventfully up to our camp at 11,200’ and were very lucky to have running water up there, meaning that I was carrying a lot of extra fuel. Better safe than sorry. We left the parking lot ~9:30 am-ish and were up at camp before 5pm. For the whiteout navigation in the morning, and us taking it slow, it was a good pace. Drinking a 30cal packet of miso soup and standing on clouds with views of Mt. Adams Altitude and I don’t mix very well. Above 11k, my appetite disappears entirely. I had a packet of miso and 15cal of electrolytes mixed with hot water for dinner and that was all I could stomach for the evening. Not great if you’re planning to go up and over a giant mountain the next morning. You know what time is? 7:30pm, also known as alpine bedtime. Using my rope as a pillow and my stuffed puffy as a cuddle toy 7 hours later the alarm woke us up at 4am. Sleep did miracles for me. I woke up fresh, having actually slept (which never usually happens for me at altitude), and interested in some food. So I made the cup-o-noodle that was supposed to be half of my dinner the night before. After ramen (which would prove to be the only food I ate for pretty much the rest of the day not counting 1 clifshot blok and 6 dates), we packed up our tent, sleeping bags, pads, stove, fuel, and everything else. We were coming down the other side of Rainier via a different route, so no chance at leaving our gear behind to grab it later. At 5:30am we set off and rapped down the rock step. We didn’t really need headlamps at this point. I love non-super-alpine starts. The sleep definitely helped me feel fresh for the technical ice pitches. Soloing the bottom ice steps that aren’t really ice steps and more frozen giant waves. Super fun ‘ice scrambling’. Rainier’s shadow at dawn with St. Helens off to the left No pics of the actual ice climbing section above the lower half since I was focused on climbing with my aluminum crampons + 1 aluminum tool/tech machine combo and the 35lb pack on my back, and my partner was focused on not getting pelted with ice and was being a vigilant belayer. I linked together all the ice until it was walkable with no tools. I think it was about 90m of climbing since we simul-ed the first 30m. Placed 2 screws along the way and felt fine with that since the ice was super mellow (albeit a bit dinner-platey) Above the ice. Now a long 2000’ snow slog to get up and over. Crevasses that could swallow a semi-truck. These behemoths we had to traverse many hundreds of feet to find a snowbridge crossing Up and over and down the DC route, which is a popular ascent and was marked with wands and had a very nice bootpack (the first of our trip). We cruised down, excited to drop some altitude and have the increased hydrostatic pressure get more oxygen into our bloodstreams. Seracs on the DC descent route Back at the parking lot with enough food and fuel to have lasted us another 2 or 3 days on the mountain (no, really. I had two giant sandwiches, 8 bars, 1 cup-o-noodle and a full ziplock of granola left over). But altitude made everything unappealing until we got back to the car. We ran into Porter McMichael (a guide on Rainier for IMG ) on our way down at Muir and he suggested we catch up over pizza and burgers. YES. No better way to end two days in the mountains. We had great weather on day 2, hardly any wind and the crevasse navigation was relatively simple. It was definitely a long walk to get on some ice, but the camping views and being the only ones on-route were worth it. Did I mention that this was Deb’s FIRST CAMPING TRIP EVER?! Aren’t you glad you read till the bottom of this trip report to find out? Deb is a fantastic car2car partner and is wicked fast, competent and also excited about ice climbing. But this was literally her first time sleeping in a tent outside. Ever. Or carrying a heavy pack with more than a day’s worth of anything. I’m not joking. She was a total champ and only asked me once how to inflate/deflate a sleeping pad or stuff a sleeping bag. If you get the chance to climb with Deb, she’s great, although you’ll probably have better luck getting her on a day c2c trip than anything overnight. I don’t think this trip convinced her that overnighting is for her Gear Notes: Air Tech Light Crampons, Grivel Ghost Evo Axe with trigger, Carbon Tech Machine, 4x screws ranging from 13-17cm; 5 draws; 2x double-lengths; 60m Beal Opera 8.5mm dry-treated rope Approach Notes: The Fan
  11. Great gloves in great condition. Only worn 3-5 times. Leather is in great shape. Size Men's Medium - 8. Comes with liners Located in woodinville, wa
  12. I am selling a pair of lightly used La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTXs in size 43.5 (10.5) for $275. They have seen light climbing, most of which was on snow/ice and very little rock so they are in good shape with lots of tread/rand. They have the volume liner and a pair of green superfeet inside. I can meet in the greater Seattle/Bellevue area and out I-90 a bit. Shipping is an option but I'd add that to the price of the boots.
  13. I'm new to the PNW and looking for rock climbing and backcountry skiing partners. I have a rack and some experience with multipitch but rock is not my strong suit. I am a competent backcountry skier and snow / ice climber, but I don't have that gear up here right now. Based in Kirkland and soon to be in Olympia.
  14. Selling an essentially new pair of Grivel G12 New-Matic crampons for $100. These have never been worn outside and look like it. I can meet in the greater Seattle/Bellevue area and out I-90 a bit. Shipping is an option but I'd add that to the price of the crampons.
  15. Dear All, How partnering for Mt Rainier during July 18/9 - July 23 ? Hood, Adams, Jefferson, Olympus, Baker .... - or any more interesting peak between near Portland, Seattle and Vancouver. I'm from Europe, nowadays based in Oxford UK, visiting OHSU in Portland for business on July 17/18. Unfortunately I don't know any mountaineers in Pacific North West, so keen to team up ! I am comfortable to lead such climbs technically, with a reliable partner, but unfortunately won't have much time to do research for routes/maps. I'm experienced in both alpine and ski mountaineering, having done 40+ high altitude peaks of comparable/higher technical difficulty than Rainier between 14,000 and 24,000 feet, and practice crevasse and avalanche rescue almost every year. Member of Academic Alpine Club Zurich (AACZ). Good endurance - I have done up to 20 hour mountain routes and up to 16,000 uphill feet in one long day. Not as fit at the moment, but 7,000 feet uphill/day is still fine. Thanks, Vaclav
  16. Hey All! Looking for climbing partners for mid-week climbs. I'm free most Mondays to Wednesdays with the occasional Thursday off as well. Open to climb almost anything!
  17. BD Fuels, never used, $299.00 EACH Msrp, buy them both for $450. Email me at verticalpope@gmail.com if you’re interested
  18. Black diamond Magnum pack. 20 liters capacity Perfecr for alpine day climbs or cragging. Internal pocket is ripped a bit. In good shape. 25.00 shipped. Located in Seattle, Wa
  19. One of the biggest problems I come across climbing in the Cascades is finding an appropriate shoe to climb in. For my first year of alpine climbing, I mostly used high top, goretex hiking boots. This worked well on soft snow and glaciers - kept my feet dry, and were for the most part crampon compatible. When it came to the rock climbing portion of climbs though, I found them to be less than stellar, underperforming my climbing approach shoes and climbing shoes. I did end up switching into climbing shoes and carrying the boots in my bag, but ultimately wanted something that climbed snow and rock well. Following that, I started climbing in boulder x approach shoes. The boulder x mids are goretex and high top, so work well for keeping my feet dry, climb extremely well on rock, can hike for miles in them, and worked reasonably well with strap-on crampons. But now they're discontinued. I have a pair of mountaineering boots, but they don't walk very well, and I'm hesitant to wear them on a 20km+ hike so that they can perform well in snow / moderately on rock. So what are you all using for your alpine shoes? We live in such a limited market area of the world... need something that hikes well, is waterproof and mid/high topped, strap-on crampon compatible, and climbs well. Why La Sportiva discontinued the boulder x mid is beyond me, but any awesome replacements?
  20. What would be a good 3 season tent that I can use for the cascades? Im not a super tight budget but I'm not looking to spend a fortune either. Id mostly be using this tent on rainier, adams shasta and hood. Thanks!
  21. until
    American Alpine Club Craggin Classic, Smith Rock, OR
  22. My name is Kiira and I am 20! I am a student at University of Puget Sound and I am looking for a mountaineering/alpine mentor. I'm originally from Colorado and have done a number of the fourteeners as well as a 45 day mountaineering expedition in Patagonia on the southern ice field. I just got off of Denali and I am more motivated then ever to improve my technical skills and get out as much as possible! Let me know if anyone would want to take me under their wing and show me the ropes!
  23. Never used Eldrid Loopo Light Harness, Size Large. Includes stuff sack and tags. Great for ski mountaineering and fast/light alpine climbing. It's supposed to be the lightest harness on the market and is nearly 1/2 the weight of the Petzl Altitude.Specs:Size Large Waist 37.4 - 41.3in (95 - 105cm) Leg Loops 24.4 - 26.4in (62 - 67cm) Weight: 82 Grams!Local, cash only sale.
  24. I'm looking to do some day or half day weekend cragging or alpine routes within range of Kirkland. I've been climbing for 10+ years but with kids, I haven't got out much in the last few years. I'm good to lead up to 5.10a and have a rack and all the stuff. I also have a somewhat flexible work schedule so I could do weekday dawn patrols at Index or 32/38.
  25. Scarpa Charmoz boots, size 42.5, very little use, excellent-perfect condition, $125 Scarpa Triolet boots, size 42.5, moderate use, vibram soles are in very good condition, $90 Please call 206-595-6471. Will provide pics on request. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...