genepires

schrunds usually fill in during the winter. One would expect a schrund in mid to late summer and on glaciers. Maybe a moat by mid summer.

Just showing a possible contradiction in beliefs. It is ok for the DOT to have the power to say what happens on public roads but the ski patrol doesn't have it on public lands. They are both experts in their fields and both are looking out for the welfare of the public.

but ski patrol can't say it is too dangerous to ski out of bounds while they throw dynamite around?

I have summited tons in the may june time frame. Generally speaking, the weather doesn't stay bad for weeks on end. It seems like it has a tendency to stay bad for a day or two, then get better. Maybe not sunny, but enough to get up stuff. Skiis are not needed either. Maybe snowshoes. You won't NEED them in june.

if you will be here mid week then you have lots of possibilities of getting away from the crowds. How about a little more description of what you are looking for. For glacier, try baker south side. for alpine rock, go to washington pass for one day rock routes. how about how far north of rainier you are willing to travel?

wild things line. Simple design with no BS. Damn durable too.

a cold and crying night for sure.

hey Give me a call at 206-227-9794. I left a PM for ya also. saturday? secret undisclosed location?

is the career change all hush hush secret? good to hear about the climbing/skiing. At least someone is getting out. Yeah!

what is Andy doing now? Off climbing or on a different career path?

I assume we can have TR's that are very kid friendly in this area. I took my 9 mo little boy, Liam, for a little snow walk from the gate on the mtn loop hwy to the big four parking area. I think it was around a 2 hr round trip but Liam was in the chariot with ski attachments on so we went at adult speed. I got no photos but it is absolutely flat, avi free, and is very scenic at the big 4 area. There is even a covered picnic area to hang out in at the big 4 parking. There are sno machines out there but they were very respectful drivers. Good times.

so who quit? Andy or Coley?

I held someone who took a big lead fall on pro such as that anchor. He must have fallen some 80 feet onto those twigs and it held him about 10 feet from decking. Even though, I wouldn't trust it.

typical AAI thing. who quit?

I would bet that 10 minutes frollicking in the snow on some logging road or on the edge of a ski area parking lot wouldn't hurt. even for a pup. sure would be fun to watch. just keep your pup on a leash. he/she wouldn't last too long if it got lost.

make rope swings in the forest and swing tree to tree like monkeys.

the best present is the one having the most fun. my little boy is having fun so he might be the best.

According to Will Gadd (page 27 "Ice & Mixed Climbing") "Horizontal frontpoints work far better for most pure ice climbing than vertical frontpoints......I challange any climber currently on vertical frontpoints to climb five pitches on a good horizonal frontpoint crampon and feel the difference." ah...what does a wanker from canada know about ice climbing? he doesn't even post here!

get to alaska range. hopefully do something rad within my remaining skills. get into waddington area or adamants all the while staying out of hospitals. see a dentist. be as good of a dad as possible while still acheiving above.

you live in the 'ham. Make art out of it. One possibility - Make a scarecrow and put the harness and pack on. then hang it off some tall structure, all eiger like. Maybe off some building in the square in western. maybe on the chief or the mythical bellingham big wall.

To me, vertical frontpoints feel more secure and just "right" vs with horizontal points. How do you quantitify this? I don't know and it doesn't really matter. Do I need the extra advantage if there is any? Yes I do. If I was a uber hardman, I might not need the advantage and maybe even seek a little handicap to make it interesting. So if you are asking for advice on this, I can assume that you are not a uber hardman. Hence I would say that the verticals would be advantagous.

so i was skiing in inbounds when i decided to duck under the boundry rope. i didn't get low enough and lost my head one inch above the shoulder. the docs put it back on but they told me to not think much for the standard decap recovery time of 4 to 6 weeks. how long before i should post on cc.com? oh oh...too late.

I just sold my grade 8 crampons (petzl) and i found a spare set of adjustment screws. So if you need a spare set, drop me a line and I will mail it your way. If you read this Justin, sorry I didn't give these to you. Give me a call.

pretty much all of the waterice crampons have them thought they might not be as wide on the top portion as the sarken.

favorable conditions happens rarely around here. It snows too much. If you want to get out this time of year, you have to know avi stuff and be able to pick terrain that is less risky. Even then........