rat

wtf, crazymofo? don't you know that fa claims on the internet trump ascents published in such lowly journals as the caj? if it's the same guy, i recall alex was pretty good with a knife too.

thanks for the blotter info. nice bit of pulling out onto the narrow pillar on the plum, eh? hope you hooked the holes my friend and i left for you on saturday. by the way, we took don's advice and climbed nocturnal emission on friday---a very nice line. we fucked up and walked off to climbers' right but saw some nice looking, but shorter, pure ice and mixed possibilities on the way down. i don't have a guide so am unsure if they've been climbed. anyhow, food for thought next time around.

someone was walking down from white blotter early saturday evening. anyone here? if so, how was it (not that it matters now)? enjoy the floods.

i must have lucked out. evidently some airlines allow canister stoves but not used liquid fueled stoves (http://www.southwest.com/travel_center/camping_equipment.html). i guess you better check directly with your intended airline. yeah, the airlines are fucking stupid. all stop.

since a cartridge stove is really nothing but a chunk of metal (similar to climbing hardware), i don't think you will have any problem if you put it in checked baggage. i suggest putting it near the top of your bag in case tsa employees get curious and search your bags. obviously, don't try and fly with the gas canisters. tsa also restricts how many lighters (2, i was told---they searched my bags) you can have in checked luggage. i recently flew domestic/international with a msr stove and liquid fuel bottles. i dismantled the stove, cleaned the bottles (like tshimko) and left them uncapped near the top in checked baggage. my bag was searched both ways but they didn't take the stove or bottles. hope that helps.

to play the devil's advocate: where would YOU like him to build on his PRIVATE property? 1. near our access to careno crag, a top-rope problem and some fine bouldering? 2. with variances, closer to icicle road and, unfortunately, closer to icicle creek. you must be joking when you object to variances to road setbacks in this area. and if you live up the icicle, you don't have a fucking leg to stand on. ultimately, we likely will all have to find a new trail to careno crag and likely have to give up a bouldering area (ala rat creek boulder). thank the desire for economic growth for that. how many degrees of separation obsolve you?

"Look lets say I'm bored. I decide that I'm going to have a fun time by going over to my neighbor's house and kick his dog for a while. As long as I don't get to agro the dog will be just fine...so there shouldn't be a problem." i think you should name it "feck" ala dennis hopper's ironic name in "river's edge" and cc.com's own facsimile. it will likely be about as dumb as feck but better looking. fffeccckkkk. open the door, goooodddaaaaamit.

feck, a few pins and lag screws harming your urban druid sensibilities? shove your vice-principal attitude up your ass.

that would have been cappellini and i. keep figuring.

true that. another cogent argument from specialed, esq.

we's just funnin'. it took 3 pieces of bait over 2 days before glassgowkiss would bite. fuck, i'm bored. drury is usually formed by late december and lasts into february, give or take a few weeks. the pencil is much more ephemeral since it faces a little more to the south. a pair of binocs will help determine the condition of upper drury. the 1-2 lower pitches are difficult to see from the highway but you can walk around these if necessary. you can ford the river about 1 mile upsteam near swiftwater picnic area. it is up to 3' deep, depending on your line. a boat is more efficient. approach from the boat take-out is 1-2 hours depending on snow/trail conditions (add about 30-45 minutes if fording). generally, glassgowkiss is right. ice climbing in washington sucks. go to lillooet with the other sheep shaggers.

yeah, that's what i like to see---animosity. keep it up. chase the numbers or have a bit of adventure. yep, we bailed on pyramid. why did you guys go for the less aesthetic line (honest question)?

i walk on water, others walk through it.

you're a total fucking pussy. for a competent party it's a long day with or without a boat.

now accepting bets in the first annual "northwest avalanche death betting pool". go ahead, jump into the deep end.

i was hoping for a more stridently nationalistic response laced with profanities.

hey bob, does 3 guys popping off it on top-rope constitute "thrashing"? how delicately can one fall off a mixed climb anyway? would the route be the next great unsolved problem if some of those oh-so-delicate edges went the way of the dodo bird?

i think, or at least hope, you're missing the sarcasm

if you're driving down and have the time, you may want to check out wheeler peak as well.

you might try selenium falls (aka spray river falls) near banff. it's a pain to break the trail later in the winter.

1. iraq, iran, syria. 2. increasing debt. 2. greater disparity between rich and poor. 3. dilution/elimination of environmental laws. 4. stacking the supreme court. 5. assaults on women's right to choose in this country and any global health initiatives that don't toe the religious line. 6. attempts at 2 stupid constitutional amendments: banning gay unions and repealing the requirement that presidents be natural born u.s. citizens. ya don't think dickhead cheney is going to run in 2008 do ya? 7. and, certainly not last, seeing that chameleon mccain rewarded for getting down on all fours for george. my guess is an administrative reach-around in the form of secretary of state. i'm so excited about 4 more years of letting freedom ring that i want to puke. fuck you, george. oh, shit. was that a PERSONAL attack? go get the fucking secret service to ban me.

oh boy, dolomite tower safe for roto-hammers for another year. drink, spew, fight.

mastectomize the mechanized man-tits.

somebody just take down the draws. give me 20 bucks for gas and i'll waste a day of my weekend to do it. then you all can stfu.

we climbed the thompson/abrons north face route on north trapper peak prior to publication of brunkhorst's book. we asked at the major shop in missoula (pipestone, i guess) and though no one had firsthand knowledge, they dug up an old climbing rag with a bit of info. i thought that was damn nice of them considering we didn't buy anything there. the rock on the thompson/abrons route is a bit chossy. it's probably better to finish on the lowe variation than traverse the unstable ledge/blocks rightward at mid-height as for t/a route---more aesthetic line and a bit harder. the antonilli route to the left also looks nice. either way, the rock improves above mid-height. brunkhorst says to descend east but we headed west to an easy gully that took us right back to the base of the face. the approach is slack by cascade standards. expect 1 1/2 days cooler-to-cooler (a long day if you know the approach). there are lots of other walls lining the approach trail. there is some info in more recent aaj's for routes in blodgett, tin cup, fred burr and roaring lion canyons. hope that helps.