rat

deep shit? naw, just piss poor route finding on my part the entire day. remember the mantra, "stfu and do your 60 meters", when rambling up cascade choss piles. glad to hear you guys had a good adventure.

thanks for the info. the face definitely has that chossy rock scarred look to it---maybe that's why doorish and company didn't go back for a more direct line. add it to the list of unsolved cascade rubble piles?

the east face of mt. triumph has one recorded route (a 5.9 climb by d/c). after looking at the face, i believe that this is a relatively short route on the far left side and doesn't tackle the direct east face. i could be wrong. is the direct east face still unclimbed? tom thomas was killed in '87 or '88 while attempting to solo the east face---maybe in the area of the large dihedral/roof in mid-face since i recall possibly seeing a haul bag there while i was on the ne ridge in '88. do any of you tough guys or gals have more info on this expanse of compact rock? thanks.

and what of this person? why is he passed out? feck is exhausted from smoking dope with crispin glover and fucking his blow-up doll.

as feck said, we meandered up some 5.8/5.9 line last summer. some kitty litter in spots but good adventure climbing on a relatively untravelled washington pass crag. from the hwy. 20 hairpin, an honest day in good country.

did the tenpeak-clark section from white river trailhead. plenty of fine ridge running and side-hilling. snow slopes and pocket glaciers on the north side of the ridge will help you avoid some of the side-hilling. hitting tenpeak from high in thunder basin then traversing over chalangin (sp?) and luana to a bivy near clark took a day.

huckleberry creek provides pretty good alternative access from the north. cross cedar creek above its confluence with huckleberry creek and follow the prominent rib. an old trail can be found on the rib and the west slope of the huckleberry drainage. the northeast face of north gardner (rising out of the west fork) is a good moderate snow/ice/rock climb this time of year.

leaving for the pasayten in an hour. peter can come along----we'll drown his fictitious eastcoast liberal establishment diletante pigfuck ass in a creek. have a good weekend.

i'm an industry lackey for the most part. feck, quit jacking off to that photo of my sisters or i'll make you squeal like a pig, hang your carcass on model worker, and cut off your ear and bolt it to a rock.

shitacowski: another government worker paid to surf the internet. get back to work motherfucker.

you might want to consider descending via spruce creek to the south fork of agnes creek. the west fork is a brush hole.

rumor from methow locals is that it might open this weekend. don't be suprised if it slides shut again fairly soon.

drugs: cynicism and misanthropy dosage: LD50 for each method: mainline

no big loss and no need to exaggerate, feck. that coat had "nazi" written all over it. george is fucking condoleeza, donald is sucking dick, and the snuff film rolls on and on and on. add your own harmony.

does anybody have info they would like to share on stonehouse pinnacle, described in the old "rock and road" as a 1000' granite pinnacle in the trinity alps? i've looked at terraserver photos and topo maps of the canyon lakes area without much luck---no terrain that i saw made me think there was a steep 1000' face anywhere nearby. maybe i missed it. nice looking ski terrain there.

i looked at a friend's copy of beckey's book the other day and should correct some info in my original post. if the line on beckey's photo is correct, i did not climb the bebie/stoddard route. the line i took was between the bebie/stoddard route and the 1963 route on the n.e. face and is likely easier than the b/s route. once traversing in from the deep chimney, it followed the gully system just left of the 1963 buttress---impossible to see from the road but easily picked out on the trail near cascade pass. sorry to dredge this shit up again. drink, spew, fight.

So that's helps you how? visualize "stumpy"

the solution: a folding saw (or a.t. gear)

the icicle generally runs east-west so i am gonna assume you're interested in south facing rock climbing. while the valley floor in the icicle is still pretty snowy, there is alot of bare ground on the south slopes. there are a fair number of formations that are snow-free both in the icicle and lower tumwater canyons.

go back to colorado. leave your dog. we'll eat it. drink, spew, fight.

buck mt. is mostly rotten schist. however, the granitic pluton to the northwest near high pass has some good rock. the east ridge of mt. berg, called the "zen arete" by smokin' joe c. and shown in a photo on this site, is a nice 5.7 route and probably the most technical route you will find in the area. bandit pk (pk. 7107') is south of buck and north of d lake along chiwawa ridge. access to trinity requires 20 miles of snowmobiling at this time of year.

billy goat, full snow cover on the road starts a little before mile 22. mike, the bebie route moves right out of the deep chimney/fault route (also done in winter by ?) after about 400'. the chimney/fault route looked like just steep snow climbing to a point much lower on the ridge than bebie's route. it might be nice in sept-oct though when chockstones might provide some interest. there are some variations one could do on bebie's route (a more direct start being one of them--too thin for me that day) but, in general, it is the most direct line on the left side of the face and tops out just left of the north buttress. more lines exist to the right--especially the gulley between the 2 indistinct buttresses on the ne face. i have some "1-hour photo quality" shots but don't have a scanner. "milf"---"mothers i'd liketa fuck" or "moro islamic liberation front"? you call it.

yea, solo. i would call it an ignored classic with generally moderate difficulties but in a wild setting. i figured others may have wondered about this route since, as i recall, there is not much info in beckey's guide.