rat

fucked up. http://thetyee.ca/News/2005/12/29/SquamishClosure/

another perspective (from someone who hasn't been there)... so the area is known for its sport climbing and there are some long traditional routes with few ascents.....and everyone says you're gonna die on the trad routes. do you enjoy alpine rock climbing in the canadian rockies? if so, i bet you would groove on the long trad routes. if i was going to someplace like that for 5 weeks, i would include a real rack (and a gun).

poor skiing on the southwest ridge of jove compared to its south face. you may find some tree skiing from jove down to lake janus. i can't recall if you can easily connect the ridge from union to jove so you may need to traverse the avy terrain below union/jove to get to the ridge. feck skied union a couple winters ago (check tr's) and didn't think it was that special.

sounds easy. why bother?

north side of mt. snoqualmie was bare bones on saturday...shoulda known better.

lifetime quitters can always find where the turf's up.

for your future and present amusement: cappellini and i climbed a line up very thin ice where the two water streaks are shown in the center of the white slabs photo. after climbing the ice around the roof, we finished up country club since the slab above wasn't as nicely covered as your photo shows (a bit late in the day, too). go figure. that was maybe 4 years ago. it hasn't come close to forming since then. look for it cause it's a highly recommended line.

what i know and mostly what i don't know: i have looked at them but don't know if they have been climbed. the approach, as you know, is problematic and includes about 1500' of elevation gain after getting to the south side of the river. some of the lines show up early in the winter then get covered with snow because they are not steep enough. the low snow year last winter made them stand out a bit more. the approach and objective hazard of the terrain trap gully you mention might not be worth the couple short sections of easy appearing ice in it. in my opinion, there are two lines, probably less than 2 honest pitches long, that might be worth exploring. they are not well formed right now.

if it's the most obvious flow above the chain-up area west of the nason creek rest area, it has historically been known as "chandelier". it was named after the nearby defunct "chandelier cafe" that now only serves ghetto housing to fun hogs. mr.e's super secret neighborhood.

yeah, all hail washington's world famous ice climbing.... two full pitches of good itchy scratchy turf and wi3 exist on the far left side of duty dome starting a couple hundred feet up from the start of briody's rock climb (gold rush?). we also climbed a fun pitch to the right of peak-a-boo tower. as with most icicle valley rock climbing, these are generally slabby affairs. don't bother sharpening your tools or bringing screws.

glassgowkiss, pm sent. the gist was that as of mid-week there wasn't anything formed on snow creek wall that i would hike to. might be different now but i doubt it. bolting the wall behind the drip maybe isn't the best idea. i heard of two aspiring ice climbers who top roped the thing when it barely touched down a few years ago....it collapsed the next day. they no longer aspire. this isn't a continental climate, despite the current anomalous temps.

same as it ever was.... http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1054527#1054527

lack of style and self-control....sorry to hear that trend has continued since the last time i was there.

sorry, i don't know where chicken gully is....don't have a guidebook. in the past and with more ice than is there now, we've done two 3-4 pitch routes on the buttress starting in that alcove right of r&d....very nice 5.8ish rock and wi3-4 climbing. no doubt others have knicked around up there over the years. looks to be some potential for easy to moderate mixed climbing on either side of warrior wall in the right conditions. an easier thin ice route forms in the gully near lazy boy but it can get covered with snice...cool thin vein of ice at the start when i was there....maybe wi3 or so. hope that helps in some way.

worth leavin': hubba hubba and environs---leadable routes but thin. dog dome dike---more mixed up than usual. rat creek climbs---not quite, need some more love. icicle buttress---still real thin but its usually more itchy scratchy then kick 'n stab there. careno crags/rainbow falls area---very thin and wet still. drury---coming along nicely but still has holes and looks real wet. chandelier---looked decent on saturday afternoon. hidden lake---the far right route and the far left route (can't remember what i called them for that book) looked leadable based on scoping with binocs from north shore road. probably still kinda wet and funky. the others are building.

not likely....but try calling north cascades mountain guides at 509-996-3194 if you haven't already.

1. 20 minutes of brutality a day...maybe something similar to http://www.crossfit.com/ but without the cult of personality...or make up your own 20 minutes of hell (no gym required), 2. throw in some trail running, mountain biking and/or xc skiing, 3. enjoy what you eat, whatever it is, in some sort of moderation most of the time.

more like a jackbooted fascist pig-rigger hanger-on.

that was 16 years ago but i remember "a sea of golden fucking knobs, man." i've always preferred the westside camping---free, open grasslands and great sunsets. it's just an extra bit of walking to get to eastside routes. there are a lot of border patrol agents on the roads and there may be impromptu road checks so be careful with the road sodas. have fun. southern arizona has some great backcountry climbing.

days of future passed (5.10 or 5.6, ao) what's my line (5.10 or 5.6, ao) forest lawn (5.9) absinthe of mallet (5.9) in addition to eric's suggestions in the 5.10 range, i recommend endgame, dem bones and cragaholic's dream. whatever you climb, remember the long slings for chickenheads. as of about 4 years ago, there were a fair number of retro bolts on old routes and the sheepshead had at least one new bolted line that crossed absinthe of mallet. in the unlikely event you get stormed out of the stronghold, try mendoza canyon. regarding the peregrine restrictions, rockfellow domes and the surrounding 1/2 mile radius isn't closed until mid-feb or so.

in response to pope, i didn't notice a bolt on easter overhang a couple weeks ago but my friend thought there was one shown in the instruction manual. the pin you mention might be the "bolt". it is still there and is a-ok. the first belay is solid pins plus nuts. no bolts needed. to clarify, jam session bolt(s) can definitely use some attention since they can't be backed up with modern gear as i recall. as far as leaving old bolts in place....i like seeing those aluminum pop-top hangers. they make me thirst for cheap grape soda. however, pull 'em and reuse the holes if the bolts truly need replacing. enough...

replacing existing bolts, fine. adding rap stations or bolts to existing routes, no way. do not turn this area into another "no time" rock---fat lot of good jim and marlene's sign and trail did to popularize those trash routes. the hordes must of gotten lost after the sign disappeared. my incomplete recollection: yellow bird---haven't done it in a long while but remember that the bolts were sketchy. but if tim says it's safe with modern gear, i would say leave them alone. black widow---sketchy bolts but modern pro works. leave the bolts alone. easter overhang---there might be an old bolt above the overhang but it is redundant. leave it alone. rotc area---i didn't think the bolts in this area were bad. jam session---the one or two bolts on this one could be checked. the flame---the last belay bolts were replaced when someone added a rap route to the hard crack climb below it. the bolt shortly above the last belay is older but still decent. south ramp---the "offwidth" is actually more of a fist crack and protects adequately with modern gear to 5". leave the bolts alone. can't comment on dagaba system or stevens pass motel since i will likely never be able to climb them. so, that really doesn't give you much work to do.

"m" stands for moss in the cascades. referring to the topo in the gallery, what's with the buttress between the cod and beckey routes?

crystal creek tower is nice. the 5.9ish route (doorish?) is one of the longer ones in that area. it puts you on the ridge by mcclellan but the summit is not as distinct as the other spires.

i really appreciated the occasional racists that it attracted. "hey you race traitor, i've got a pistol in my truck.....blah blah fucking blah." and the county sheriff teams dressed all in black occasionally swept through the place. overall though, most folks were live and let live and it was a great place to get piss drunk.