rat

gotta agree with both kfeck and dru, though i usually don't like to agree with kfeck. the hordes exist and the more dispersed they are, the better. keeping projects or new areas under wraps is just part of the game---if you don't like going to the same shithole every weekend, buy a map, a tank of gas, a box of beer, and do some some exploring. lambone,while i haven't ice climbed in montana yet (done some rock and alpine rock), attitudes there seem to be changing a little: witness the 2nd addition of the Big Sky Ice and the Alpine Ice and Rock books (of course the author is a guide partially/mostly trying to make a buck) and the montanaice.com website.

i made the order with telemark-pyrenees. they evidently can't/won't advertise black diamond gear on their website but they do have some in stock and will sell it to you if you ask (i ended up with bd ice screws at a good price). this might be true of barrabes as well. FUCK THE MAN.

rat, you lie. either that, or i'm an undiagnosed schyzophrenic. or both.

Actually to be totally honest I worship tele skiers. I wish I could tele myself but unfortunately I am a total wanker. The tele skiers and their graceful turns are the epitome of beauty in motion. I could never hope to attain such a level of spiritual perfection myself because I am too busy being a loser and a wannabe.

i found a pair of skis at telemark-pyrenees that cost about $275 including 2.6% duty (if i get charged) and about $45 shipping. these skis retail for about $340+tax in the good ol' usa. i called pro-ski in seattle to see if they would at least match the european price. the guy i spoke with was aware of the pricing discrepancy but still wouldn't haggle AT ALL. maybe i would have had more luck if i was there in person with cold hard cash but i live about 120 miles away. anyways, for big-ticket items it might be worth doing a little internet research then trying to get a modestly lower price at a locally owned store(no one pays the sticker price for a car if they can help it). it didn't work this time but it may in the future if more people do it. one downside is that it puts pressure on the little guy but, hey, i'm a little guy too.

allyoucaneat,you sure blow your horn alot. are you a contortionist? i've been here and i've been there,so whaaat, so whaaat,so what so what you boring little cunt,so what? kfeck,why would you want more ski-area wankers to invade the backcountry?come on feck, open the dooooor goddamnittttt.

you lame fucks forgot to mention cody. blah,blah,balh

don't you know that rat never apologizes, you fucking rat? asarat iamtherat thatwillkilltherat thatbecametherat. there is only one rat and that is me, you fucking eejit.

Actually, you are all wonderful people, and I apologize for what I just said. I'm sorry!!!!!

fucking morons

for your enjoyment, a cut-and-paste from interesting-people.org. it could've been written by bonzo, but wasn't. >>This is a post from a CNN message board: Orion Ramsey - Friday,>>09/21/01, 2:35:00pm (#58980 of 58989)>>>>To those extremists that perpetrated this crime against our nation, I>>have a warning for you. There are those of us who look at your>>actions as irrational, twisted, and completely inhuman. By all>>measures, what you have done can only be seen as insane. I have news>>for you. We're more nuts than you, and it should scare you s***less.>>>>You may think that when you die for your cause, you go to Paradise>>with 72 virgins, can leave reservations for 70 members of your>>family, all your sins are forgiven, and you sit at the side of Allah.>>Big deal. We had 39 guys who rented a Beverly Hills mansion, cut>>off their nuts, built a web site, and proceeded to poison themselves>>to death to hitch a ride with aliens out on the Hale-Bopp comet.>>>>You shoot guns into the sky to celebrate victories over enemies, and>>people are killed by the bullets raining down on them. We not only do>>this for New Year's Eve in some cities, but we burn houses down, tear>>up streets, loot and sack our stores, and beat ourselves senseless>>when our sports teams win championships.>>>>Sports teams! We made a sequel to Police Academy 5. We gave an award>>for singing to two guys who never even sang. We put little sweaters on>>dogs. We shot John Lennon six times and didn't even aim for Yoko Ono.>>We think Elvis is still alive. We put Braille on drive-up automatic>>teller machines. We think that a simple button on a web site that says>>"Do not click if you're under 21" will do anything but cause a person>>under 21 to click on it. We take a large chunk of the island on which>>those buildings you destroyed sat and pretend that it isn't a part of>>our country after all, let people fly into our airports that we want to>>kill, drive them in limousines to speak against us on this "pretend>>territory" land, let them drive back to our airport, and let them fly>>them back home without a scratch. We sell hot dogs in packages of ten>>and the buns in packages of eight. We can't even decide if pitchers>>should have to bat for themselves or not. All those baseball fields>>we've got. And none of them are even remotely the same size.>>>>We gave millions of dollars to a guy that told us that God was going to>>kill him if he didn't raise enough money. When he didn't get enough>>money, he didn't die. So we gave him more money in celebration of the>>fact that God didn't make him die. We've managed to keep the formulas>>for Coca-Cola and Kentucky Fried Chicken secret for decades, we encrypt>>the most banal communications on our Information Superhighway, and yet>>we given away our most important nuclear secrets to the Chinese and>>Russians at the drop of a hat. And yet, with all this on the A-1 Psycho>>balance sheet, you still think you're more nuts than us that this won't>>result in your complete and utter annihilation? One way or another, your>>way of life will be over, period.>>>>Freedom's kind of a crazy, kooky, nutty thing when you look really close>>at it and all the bizarre and loony things that can result from it, but>>it's better than any other ideas anybody else has come up with. It's>>been that way since 1776, and built to last no matter how insanely we>>try to screw it up on a daily basis. We are even so nuts and ruthless>>enough as a nation to start insanely tearing at those of ourselves that>>even remotely resemble you in such rancorous, deplorable, and angry ways>>that will make you wonder if Allah has enough glue to piece enough of>>you back together for a flesh paperweight in Paradise.>>>>We may not know where you are now, but when we do I guarantee you that>>the majority of our high school children will still have no idea where>>on the globe where you are or where you will end up being buried. But>>we will send them anyway, and we will allow those of them that went into>>the armed services because they didn't manage to get into college>>*still* rain down Hell and fire on your worthless hides. It will all>>come down on you, because we're nuts enough to give all four of our>>branches of military services extremely powerful and deadly aircraft>>even though only one of them is actually called the Air Force. Picking>>a fight with the most insane nation on Earth with the hope that your>>message and influence will spread throughout the world, well, that's>>just downright stupid. [ 11-16-2001: Message edited by: rat ]

multi-pitch bolted route on/near whitehorse: truth or fiction?

thanks for the info. seems difficult to believe that the route hasn't been repeated. based on the photo in the '87 CAJ, it looks like there is some room for more routes on the face. will probably make a foray next spring.

does anyone have info on access to the jones lake area? has anyone done the nw face of knight peak (kay/serl, '87)?

quote: Originally posted by Pro_popper: In 1950 Pete Schoening and Fred B. did the traverse of all Index peaks. Anyone repeated this feat? Eagle-man keep me posted; email: alpineclimbs@ev1.net at least 4 solo repeats to my knowledge plus an unkown number of others.

can't get enough of that sandy, ball bearing feeling under your shoes? head up mission creek outside of cashmere for more. roadside slabs complete with compression bolts and dirt slopes above the routes. true grit and truly stupid.

all the tatty rap slings are low on iconoclast (below the first .10c corner around shitty blocks and such). anybody who bailed out higher use to have to leave gear which would then be scarfed by the next party. both bolt anchors are above this point and are near fine cracks for natural gear (sorry, don't remember the make/model of the bolts but they are at least 3/8). the chicken bolt is near a fine chicken head for a tie-off. rip 'em. a friend recently did outer space and noticed a new bolt on remorse as well. seems like some folks may be looking to fill in the blanks on the wall.

on a somewhat related note, some shit-for-brains drilled a bolt station at the top of each of iconclast's two .10c pitches and added a chicken bolt on the second .10c pitch. these may disappear in the future since they are completely unnecessary.

victor, gollum's handiwork on das muzak hasn't gone unnoticed. at least that puke had the sense to camoflage the bolts. most here are too blind to see---too much wacking.

there is a pair of peregrine falcons at index that nest around the cheeks area (near as i can tell). this pair has fledged young off and on for a number of years. while the species was downgraded last year from "endangered" to a "species of concern" by the federal government, it remains on the state "endangered" species list and is also protected under the migratory bird act. they can be sensitive to human activity during their nesting period from march through the first part of july. it would behoove us climbers to give them a break during this period and avoid the cheeks area or wherever they may be nesting for the year. a voluntary restriction similar to that on midnight rock seems like a good idea to avoid conflicts with the powers that be (the state and feds). besides, relatively few people seem to climb near the cheeks anyway.

when i'm climbing, i think about drinking. when i'm drinking, i think about climbing. are these sins?

bouldering at brief. roped climbing at knuckledoom cliff. roped climbing at beebe rock south of chelan falls on east side of river. more exploratory rock up side canyons and in the '70's burn area up the Entiat. have fun with the snakes.