rat

i agree with mistermo on this but wouldn't mind seeing the application. if i get to index in the next day or so, i will take a look. since you say it is not a class IV permit (not spotted owl or marbled murrelet habitat), you will have to call them on their riparian zone layout and/or potential unstable slopes. forested wetlands can be logged. the department of natural resources, department of fish & wildlife and the affected indian tribes review these issues both in the office and on the ground. provided buse did the fieldwork and paperwork correctly, you will not stop the permit but may get some piecemeal adjustments.

do you have a link to the actual fpa for review (not just the #)? i don't currently have a password for the fpar site.

marginally better than it looks. definitely worth the look if you are a b.a.s.e. jumper. next time the camera gets tossed.

wtf, where did layton's entertaining diatribe go? sarcasm is truth. you moderators really know how to gut a trip report.

boola boola or crystal creek would work best. grab one day permit for each day you're out.

i went to college at western, did the obligatory sisters climb, and thought the rock was really cool. i had been interested in revisiting the area for a while. a climbing partner of mine and his family lives in bow so the trip wasn't as out of the way as you think. good thing kat didn't find the empty sixer of schmidt tall-boys that i stashed after smoking that ciggy. oh yeah, we did it in early july and the river crossing was cake.

that was mine from earlier this summer, bro brah. i was so frightened by the "5.9+/5.10- cascade hardman" rating, that i took a pack of smokes. nothing like an unfiltered to get ya shakin'. it is a nice route. everyone do yourselves a favor and do the last pitch to the top of the ridge. it's a good pitch and provides nice views into the the other basin. we did a 100' tree/block rappel back to the downclimbing terrain.

i've skied a pair of 181's mounted with silvretta 404's for the last 4-5 years always in the backcountry. they are good skis and have held up well but i don't huck. hard to beat that price.

nice. you guys gonna leave anything for us posers to climb? i love work.

looks like a fun lark. cappellini is full of shit, not to mention a foul mood. he was climbing on the face over to the right. though he does have a point.....gordon et.al. have done all sorts of undocumented "stupid pieces of dirt" in the area. but, of course, he is a "poser". looks like you guys went in from hansel creek (maybe on bikes?). you may already know this, but the old "centennial trail" that starts at the end of the logging road on the mill creek/allen creek divide might be a quicker option if you head back there anytime soon.

nice job, matt. your photo is the one i remember seeing. from the top of pitch 5, i continued up a small arete just left of what i think you are calling the escape gully. at the top of this pitch, it turned to 3rd/4th scrambling. we stayed as close to the crest as possible and that led directly to the summit. did you also climb the buttress to the left of this? it leads to the tower visible at the left edge of your photo.

mike, doesn't this make you feel both afraid and kinda unclean? nice job, guys. that rock looks great.

Climb: south peak of granite mountain-ne face Date of Climb: 8/20/2006 Trip Report: cappellini and i got a late start on saturday and hoofed up to paddy-go-easy pass then along the ridge to a bivvy at the unnamed tarns just northwest of the summit. on sunday, we climbed a clean and solid line never more than 30' off the crest of the central buttress. four full pitches of unlikely-looking 5.9+/5.10- face climbing off occasionally hard-to-find pro led to a roof crack on the crest. after a couple tries including an attempt with his feet over his head, dan pulled on a piece to surmount the awkward off-fist crux before running the rope out on the friendlier cracks above. i managed to follow the roof free at 5.10+/5.11- (you could skirt this via a crack system 30-40' to the left). i contrived a nice sixth pitch up an arete between two gullies before we unroped and scrambled a few hundred feet to the summit. a short walk down talus led back to camp. instead of hiking out via our approach, we dropped directly down to the deception pass trail via slabs and open forest with minimal brush. i used to have a photo of this face and believe this buttress has been climbed previously. i didn't find anything using the search function but there may be some info stored somewhere in the cc.com black hole. any first ascent info would be appreciated. while somewhat short given the approach, this is a recommended line. Gear Notes: pro to 4"

cappellini would have freed the 20' i butchered if he drew the lead. i've been working too much. check the photo gallery for a rough idea where the line goes. i don't know how to attach it to the post.

great route. pitch 3 is classic.

nice line, nice tick.

on sunday, cappellini and i climbed a line on the northeast side of mcclellan peak. the climb is obvious from snow lake and the dike and upper pillar are interesting features when seen from certain places in the range. we started in the clean white corner just right of the dike and climbed four nice pitches of 5.8 corners and face cracks to the top of the lower buttress. about 400' of hiking and 4th class led to the upper pillar. we climbed three pitches just right of the prow to the top of this feature. i butchered the first pitch with whining c1 but dan had no trouble seconding and thought it was only 5.10 or so. he then led a ropelength of sustained 5.10 and i lurched up another pitch of 5.9+. we topped out on a gendarme a short ways east of the summit and bailed. downclimbing to the west brought us back to the packs and a long walk.

rumor has it that you have not been wearing your helmet religiously. wtf, you got a hole in your head or something? wear your goddamn helmet.

you're confusing a nearby ice climb with recurve. however, a friend and i did bail off recurve a few winters ago due to time constraints. check your pm's, curt.

my brother and i climbed a route from the toe in the late 80's thinking it was one of doorish's routes. yeah, gordon told me he's done a few routes up there as well. nice to know the historic name for recurve. thanks. it's actually a pretty good route if you like dirt. cappellini and partner also did a route up the slabs left of the corner.

it sounds like this shares some pitches with doorish's "king's indian" or "nimzo indian" and/or beckey's route? or am i confused about what aspect of jupiter rock you climbed?

bold?

gearexpress.com (like filthyhank says) or justropes.com

you didn't mention if you will be soloing or will have a partner. if you have a partner expect to simul-climb almost everything or you are likely gonna epic in the dark. it's been soloed in a day a number by at least 4 people far more over the hill than colin. if you don't take a rope, the crux is probably the downclimb between the north and middle peaks. it's an honest day. lots of snow patches up there now.

whoever shot him just left him, gall bladder and all.