rat

huckleberry creek provides pretty good alternative access from the north. cross cedar creek above its confluence with huckleberry creek and follow the prominent rib. an old trail can be found on the rib and the west slope of the huckleberry drainage. the northeast face of north gardner (rising out of the west fork) is a good moderate snow/ice/rock climb this time of year.

leaving for the pasayten in an hour. peter can come along----we'll drown his fictitious eastcoast liberal establishment diletante pigfuck ass in a creek. have a good weekend.

i'm an industry lackey for the most part. feck, quit jacking off to that photo of my sisters or i'll make you squeal like a pig, hang your carcass on model worker, and cut off your ear and bolt it to a rock.

shitacowski: another government worker paid to surf the internet. get back to work motherfucker.

you might want to consider descending via spruce creek to the south fork of agnes creek. the west fork is a brush hole.

rumor from methow locals is that it might open this weekend. don't be suprised if it slides shut again fairly soon.

drugs: cynicism and misanthropy dosage: LD50 for each method: mainline

no big loss and no need to exaggerate, feck. that coat had "nazi" written all over it. george is fucking condoleeza, donald is sucking dick, and the snuff film rolls on and on and on. add your own harmony.

does anybody have info they would like to share on stonehouse pinnacle, described in the old "rock and road" as a 1000' granite pinnacle in the trinity alps? i've looked at terraserver photos and topo maps of the canyon lakes area without much luck---no terrain that i saw made me think there was a steep 1000' face anywhere nearby. maybe i missed it. nice looking ski terrain there.

i looked at a friend's copy of beckey's book the other day and should correct some info in my original post. if the line on beckey's photo is correct, i did not climb the bebie/stoddard route. the line i took was between the bebie/stoddard route and the 1963 route on the n.e. face and is likely easier than the b/s route. once traversing in from the deep chimney, it followed the gully system just left of the 1963 buttress---impossible to see from the road but easily picked out on the trail near cascade pass. sorry to dredge this shit up again. drink, spew, fight.

So that's helps you how? visualize "stumpy"

the solution: a folding saw (or a.t. gear)

the icicle generally runs east-west so i am gonna assume you're interested in south facing rock climbing. while the valley floor in the icicle is still pretty snowy, there is alot of bare ground on the south slopes. there are a fair number of formations that are snow-free both in the icicle and lower tumwater canyons.

go back to colorado. leave your dog. we'll eat it. drink, spew, fight.

buck mt. is mostly rotten schist. however, the granitic pluton to the northwest near high pass has some good rock. the east ridge of mt. berg, called the "zen arete" by smokin' joe c. and shown in a photo on this site, is a nice 5.7 route and probably the most technical route you will find in the area. bandit pk (pk. 7107') is south of buck and north of d lake along chiwawa ridge. access to trinity requires 20 miles of snowmobiling at this time of year.

billy goat, full snow cover on the road starts a little before mile 22. mike, the bebie route moves right out of the deep chimney/fault route (also done in winter by ?) after about 400'. the chimney/fault route looked like just steep snow climbing to a point much lower on the ridge than bebie's route. it might be nice in sept-oct though when chockstones might provide some interest. there are some variations one could do on bebie's route (a more direct start being one of them--too thin for me that day) but, in general, it is the most direct line on the left side of the face and tops out just left of the north buttress. more lines exist to the right--especially the gulley between the 2 indistinct buttresses on the ne face. i have some "1-hour photo quality" shots but don't have a scanner. "milf"---"mothers i'd liketa fuck" or "moro islamic liberation front"? you call it.

yea, solo. i would call it an ignored classic with generally moderate difficulties but in a wild setting. i figured others may have wondered about this route since, as i recall, there is not much info in beckey's guide.

cascade river road gated at roush creek (mile 20). easy travel yesterday up the road and c-j gully to the hanging glacier. snow conditions in the gully were quite stable with breakable crust over avy debris down low transitioning to hard slab above. no cornice to speak of hanging over the c-j col. hanging glacier was quiet the entire time i was there (no sun here). bivied in the schrund below the deep chimney on the left side of the ne face. a safe tent site could be located in a hollow down and left of the schrund. climbed mark bebie's route starting up the deep chimney then traversing right into the gulleys/slopes to the right. the vast majority of this route can't be seen from the road since it lies behind the leftmost buttress on the ne face. sections of alpine ice/neve 3-4 interspersed with sprindrift troughs and snow slopes to 60 degrees as well as a few sections of thin neve over rock led to the ridge not far left of the summit. again, no cornices (another benefit of el nino). easy snow/rock climbing along the ridge to the summit. rather than risk an epic in unknown terrain on the south side of the hill, i downclimbed the route with one rap off an abalakov thread at the crux section. a beautiful place and a recommended route but death on a stick in poor conditions. hats off to the rich dead first ascentionist. there are many possibilities for new mixed lines on this face as well as a runnel system on the west side of cascade peak that begins at the level of the hanging glacier. i normally don't take photos but had one of those disposable ones this time. will try to scan some photos if any are worth a shit. colin and marko: there is alot of bare talus around the north buttress' base. if you left your skis there, they may be melted out. drink, spew, fight.

Forgive me for not spending the necessary time to research, but did you climb it in '85 with Twight et al? Otherwise I didn't know it had seen another ascent... In any case, fantastic job to all! spring, 1989 with john mailhiot.

sounds like worse conditions than when we climbed it. we bivied way up near the base of the face and carried the gear over--training for a trip to ak. i don't remember anything unreasonable except for traversing deep and scary flutings under the cornices--we remembered the screws/pins but forgot the picket.

yea, we went up to the ridge from the lake. pretty easy going but some crap snow/tight trees along parts of the ridge. definitely room for some more lines on that face and the north face right of the north buttress. we might have been on bob "hyperbole" cotter's route but i don't have beckey's bible so am not sure. glad to hear lots of people went out and got shit done last weekend.

see our tracks? if so, where was your route in relation? nice job.

failed attempt on the ne face of pyramid. hope to return after some more melt/freeze cycles thicken the ice. a nice line that appears technically harder, but shorter, than the north face of colonial.

i'd have to disagree with alex regarding the quality of skiing available in the enchantments (during a normal winter). skiing out the trail can suck though. conditions as of 2/4: easy sliding from icicle river to the trailhead. ski/snowshoe track up to colchuck/stuart lake trail junction. ski track continues up mountaineer creek. trail not broken up to colchuck recently. dragontail is plastered. triple couloirs is loaded with snow and the first connection is plastered (no ice evident but i bet it would go on neve). ski conditions in the forest suck--recommend snowshoes.