rat

dude, i said stay on the ridge until it broadened out, dude. dying is poor style....choose life, choose sparks.

i favor #1 wired hexes.

overly complicated pieces of shit.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post376313

leashless is passe. leashless and blind is the future.

peter and i saw your car early on saturday....glad to hear you survived. i think a lot of those slopes slid over the weekend. for those still interested in emphemeral washinton ice, i just took a short drive and here's a sampling of what's "in 'n thin" in worthleavin': some smears on pearly gates crag, dog dome dike, the wi3 route near the rock climb "lazy boy", the rat creek climbs, hubba hubba, the smear and the second pitch of the silver tongue (we did a fine mixed pitch below it earlier in the winter). i didn't drive to check hidden lake but i bet all those routes are fat.

that looks like some unique westside fun. and ceramic barnyard animals to boot, so to speak.

the "bacon buddy" (or as dru probably correctly points out, "bacon butty") story was from our friend's strange travels in the empire. a bacon butty and an egg butty would have gone well with the urine. hey youth, that would be a "bergschrund" not "moraine". kids these days...

cool. i've been curious about that area....glad to see there are some interesting skiing/climbing opportunities there.

no under-hype involved. a few asides: we saw a small section of aircraft aluminum (wing?) at around 2000' in the buckeye creek drainage. we didn't spend any time investigating further---dog hair hemlock. anybody still looking for a downed plane in that area? there is a much harder looking mixed line around the buttress to the right of the chimney/gully. i don't know if peter took a photo of it. bring a full rack to 4". an old friend of mine told me he climbed a rock route on the east face years ago. the buttress to the right of the gully has some nice looking cracks. the steep wall to the left is very compact choss.

nice to meet you pervs. fine work. and congrats to all who got out to enjoy the stellar weather this weekend.

Climb: whitehorse mountain-east face Date of Climb: 2/19/2006 Trip Report: here's the hype: peter and i climbed the major chimney/gully weakness shown in john scurlock's excellent photo http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/40358778 of the east face. the approach into buckeye basin on saturday was straightforward. we left the truck on the squire creek road, crossed squire creek, headed up the ridge and eventually contoured into buckeye basin. good neve through small trees and up avalanche chutes led to the upper basin and a tent site not far from the route. after a short problem over the 'schrund, i think we led seven 60m+/- pitches before simul-climbing ~4 pitches of steep snow to the summit. the climbing was a mixture of good neve/water ice and entertaining snice. pete had a couple fine but short sections of vertical/slightly overhanging snice. pro and belays were good/adequate....a recommended route. downclimbing and 2 raps led down the south face/southeast ridge. being tired of downclimbing, i convinced pete to rap the first descent gully we came to though we both knew we could walk down the next one to the south. anyway, my stupidity won the day and we did three more raps before arriving back at the tent late in the afternoon. we initially thought the route might go in two days roundtrip (still might) but we opted to sleep instead of thrash. i cut the fuel supply a little short so we had to drink our urine. ten hours of sleep and a few hours of walking took us back to the truck. unfortunately, the bedliner i was cleaning as justin and darrin drove up would not fit in my rig. if you need one for a small pickup, it's sitting by the side of squire creek road. pete has some photos that he'll likely share. grade: III/IV, AI 4. Gear Notes: small rack of pins, nuts and cams to 3" plus a handful of screws

superior find.

nope, and i'm tired from skiing. carry on with the inanity...

we can all only hope you will be more devastated when you find out it wasn't a manatee, but an elephant seal. dumbass.

now this thread is going in the right direction. all that's required are a few comments from archenemy.....and your sheep.

pm sent regarding the 3rd tool.

matt, the badlands are nothing special unless you love lodgepole thickets and blowdowns. the higher terrain is really nice though. it's worth day-hiking over big jim from big jim lakes and out via lake augusta.

regarding philfort's comment about skiing the ridge to the summit: we tried one winter and made it to pt. 7616'. we bailed off to the northeast due to rocky sections along the ridge and unusually cold conditions...good skiing though. the ne facing bowls above big jim mt. lakes would be great with the right conditions (only been there in the summer). enough...

the short answer is "yes". windloaded slopes above lake augusta. the shot down to carter lake is nice.

use aqua-seal.

neoprene fishing gloves. about $10 a pair.

lower than feck's and as we all know, feck's are pretty low. shouldn't you be complaining somewhere? give a call when you want to fail on something again.

untrue. you set yourself up again so...no real harm meant. you do own a boatload of shit though. slave to the modem, carry on....

you may be on your way back to wonderful codorato so this info may not be all that helpful.... skied union on sunday. we found good steep tree and glade skiing with very nice snow. my standards are perhaps lower than feck's. you'll have to decide for youself whether the road approach is worth it. the uptrack should be fine for a few more days.