rat

warm enough this week to send it all rushing to the sea? anyone have current ice info for pemberton/lillooet/bridge river areas? thanks.

http://www.avalanche.ca/default.aspx?DN=5,4,558,3,Documents if you haven't already seen this click for south coast, north shore and whistler backcountry. not as detailed as nwac.

it wasn't my intention rag on you guys. however, the issue has been discussed on live-the-vision and at least one canadian mentioned the potential for yanks and others to not know of, or ignore, the restrictions. i was just trying to, as jmace described, get everyone up to speed (i actually posted this link a week or two ago but it was never pinned to the top of the forum page). glad you had a fun trip.

if that's your rig and that's the bottom of gbu, you might want to read this: http://climbersaccess.ab.ca/content/view/47/38/ it might be nice to put this link at the top of the forum page.

bob, you're a complaining wank (shitty weather, shitty climbers, shitty business environment, ad fucking nauseum). shut the fuck up or move to canada like you were spraying about years ago.

i didn't realize montanans were such delicate flowers. looks like a fun trip.

the trail near the road is an easy hike. they frown on people hiking along the jeep road but we did it on the way out. camping is regulated in the area (unlike wall creek?). north face of grimface is kinda furry but good climbing.

thanks.

is foley creek road the access to the cheam range and the north side of knight peak?

a second recommendation for granite mt. also worth the time is grandfather hobgoblin and other routes in that area (rock ain't perfect), weaver's needle (easy solo or very light rack), and a 3-4 pitch wall accessed from the same parking as for weaver's (can't recall the name but the rock was fine and ratings were honest). sedona has some fine routes if you can stand the "ambiance".

the gate is locked at bridge creek campground. plan accordingly if headed to colchuck or stuart areas early season.

going to the ghost this winter? please read this so you don't inadvertently get a ticket and screw up future access. http://climbersaccess.ab.ca/ you can find more discussion about this on live-the-vision.

bad boy bubby tromeo & juliet frankenhooker (good fun)

provided you're serious, this remark is all anyone needs to prove your ignorance. do you even know why? learn to climb dirt or move to "the lost world of suckiness".

i agree with mistermo on this but wouldn't mind seeing the application. if i get to index in the next day or so, i will take a look. since you say it is not a class IV permit (not spotted owl or marbled murrelet habitat), you will have to call them on their riparian zone layout and/or potential unstable slopes. forested wetlands can be logged. the department of natural resources, department of fish & wildlife and the affected indian tribes review these issues both in the office and on the ground. provided buse did the fieldwork and paperwork correctly, you will not stop the permit but may get some piecemeal adjustments.

do you have a link to the actual fpa for review (not just the #)? i don't currently have a password for the fpar site.

marginally better than it looks. definitely worth the look if you are a b.a.s.e. jumper. next time the camera gets tossed.

wtf, where did layton's entertaining diatribe go? sarcasm is truth. you moderators really know how to gut a trip report.

boola boola or crystal creek would work best. grab one day permit for each day you're out.

i went to college at western, did the obligatory sisters climb, and thought the rock was really cool. i had been interested in revisiting the area for a while. a climbing partner of mine and his family lives in bow so the trip wasn't as out of the way as you think. good thing kat didn't find the empty sixer of schmidt tall-boys that i stashed after smoking that ciggy. oh yeah, we did it in early july and the river crossing was cake.

that was mine from earlier this summer, bro brah. i was so frightened by the "5.9+/5.10- cascade hardman" rating, that i took a pack of smokes. nothing like an unfiltered to get ya shakin'. it is a nice route. everyone do yourselves a favor and do the last pitch to the top of the ridge. it's a good pitch and provides nice views into the the other basin. we did a 100' tree/block rappel back to the downclimbing terrain.

i've skied a pair of 181's mounted with silvretta 404's for the last 4-5 years always in the backcountry. they are good skis and have held up well but i don't huck. hard to beat that price.

nice. you guys gonna leave anything for us posers to climb? i love work.

looks like a fun lark. cappellini is full of shit, not to mention a foul mood. he was climbing on the face over to the right. though he does have a point.....gordon et.al. have done all sorts of undocumented "stupid pieces of dirt" in the area. but, of course, he is a "poser". looks like you guys went in from hansel creek (maybe on bikes?). you may already know this, but the old "centennial trail" that starts at the end of the logging road on the mill creek/allen creek divide might be a quicker option if you head back there anytime soon.

nice job, matt. your photo is the one i remember seeing. from the top of pitch 5, i continued up a small arete just left of what i think you are calling the escape gully. at the top of this pitch, it turned to 3rd/4th scrambling. we stayed as close to the crest as possible and that led directly to the summit. did you also climb the buttress to the left of this? it leads to the tower visible at the left edge of your photo.