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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. wayne

    cc.com

    The Doctor is in Da house. Welcome back
  2. Wow, Great job guys, cant wit to see it on the blogs!
  3. wayne

    Hey Archie

    That was an incredible game!
  4. Forrest Foxhead, the stopper photo
  5. Chest pains in Hawaii
  6. Gripping account in the Sierras, Good job on that
  7. Well, what a thread this turned into!! This seems to be the best way to get to know you all. (besides hanging out in Patagonia) . 09 was a most interesting year. Many changes from being an empty nester to taking a break from my nearly all consuming hi-rise career. It started with my first trip to Patagonia, and with my Sweety! We had the best time getting to know the Seattle crew and trekking, cragging and I hooked up with the Mad Dog to do El Mocho> Coming back to an epic ice season in WA , we did many routes and a couple of fa,s along the way. Skied Red Pk with a great crew of 5 Sneeking on more ice on 3-fingers traverse and an fa in the South Pickets with the amazing Steph. Discovered short film making when I got my Mac! Fa with Layton on Dome 2nd ascent-Gunnrunner Traverse Nw Arayete Shuksan 2nd ascent N Ridge of Buck Mythic Wall Back to ice again after moving to Pullman to build a house for my friend-3 fas in Idaho 4 day Hyalite Now we are in Cody to end a very interesting year to be sure. Enjoyed all of your posts and trs, thanks..
  8. Ask Marko, he knows
  9. umm, yes, It should happen to you too.... I was placing all right and had to grip the tool with elbow bent. Hanging higher, off the bones/leash would have gone a long way on the steep placements. BTW..... Do the make an Android just for the new Cobras??
  10. I have found (yesterday on the Scepter) that it is good to have a leash on my left hand while leading a steep section. Placing screws with a leash on your non-screw-placing hand is easier than hanging on a leashless "grip". I got very pumped placing them.
  11. Not sure, I am on the road. It is behind Mesachie though. Good looking winter fas for sure I am trying to figure Danes pics out
  12. It is a complicated q and a. Depends on what you want to climb and are you leading? I just went l-less and it suits my technical style well. With the lanyards, it is also safer. If your ultimate goal is just go do 3 and 4,s it doesnt matter much but if you want to do mixed or lead hard ice, I think getting used to l-less is the answer.
  13. Still waiting to hear from Blake, Darrin, Rat etc...
  14. I have done both. The issues with them in my opinion is the rime coating this time of year is rather feathery, and difficult to protect/swing stick. The best time is after a pineapple express (which we just did?) or in the spring when it is still cold at nights. They get late sun too which is nice in spring.
  15. You guys are delivering. To keep the stoke flowing..... this may be one of many unclimbed Cascade walls waiting for a FKA!! And yes , it is big and steep!
  16. A discreet considerate-targeted gift bag with nothing but her favorites!
  17. duuuude
  18. wayne

    The Eiger?

    Ha! Hilarious. That was a great find. Makes our game look candy!
  19. Go ahead Joe!
  20. Maybe this should move to Author Request Forum? I am writing a page on first ascents and the allure they can hold. There are many fascinating aspects that beg to be covered from logistics to psychology. If there is some serious opinions or insights on the matter. Please share them here. We all could learn much from it. What are some of the core motivations? What role does fear play, if any? Risk factors, how do you minimize them? Scenario play-outs. What is learned from attempts Competition Ego Adventure Gear geekery I am hoping to stick to mountaineering on this topic, but am looking forward to all discourse (except bolts...) Looks like it could be a fun project..... Just please dont allow this idea to be blogged/copied before It is finished? Thanks, Wayne
  21. Does anyone know how Hyalite survived the recent thaw?
  22. Brad has done it reverse and forwards a bunch. the dude is core solo.
  23. Here it is, finally! The New Waynessite! Thanks again guys for all of your insight and help getting the right fit. I will still post all my tweets on the mighty cc,com, but there will be much more than that on the new site. Feel free to subscribe, or save to favorites (if it is..) Hope you enjoy, Wayne
  24. Good luck, those are keepers.
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