wayne
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Everything posted by wayne
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From the old site. fwiw Ok, Here is where I make a point that I have wanted to make for a while. There are different definitions of "Traverses" Old style traverses of the Pickets and other ranges use to be nothing more than crossing the crest of a range and maybe a summit or two along the way. I dont mean to minimize anyones efforts. I have the utmost respect for the all adventurers Then there are true "Summit Ridge Traverses" that almost always stay on or near the crest of the ridge that connects the summits.That is what I am trying to represent here on this page Then there are enchainments. They meander anywhere and do summits or routes along the way. I believe these are the unwritten rules of this particular game that I am trying to show here. I welcome differing opinions. Enjoy the page!
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Nice tribute Tyler. His name was always next to the more aggressive guide book entries in the 1st guide. Cant believe only 2 years! Would be cool to hear more.
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Tugs.
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Beckey Bible: " Follow the arm through timber to the ne face cirque. Turn the N buttress to its west. A box chimney accesses the lower face near its center. A snow gulley leads to an ice ribbon that connect the lower face with the upper snowfield, the upper snowfeild lead to a final section of mixed climbing" Sounds like they were way around the corner?
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OOO! Looks like there is some ice on the Cooper Spur.
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whoa-suffer-log
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Looks very fun! only a 1 mile approach?
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You are kidding me! Wow, that is awesome! Amazing this stuff has been right under our noses the whole time Safe travels on your next trip.
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[TR] Eldorado climb and overnight - Eldorado glacier 2/22/2010
wayne replied to Steph_Abegg's topic in North Cascades
Great shots, as usual, Steph! -
Jeez, thanks Iron and friend! Dont know if we could have made a good go of it w/o your huge effort. I am just torqued today as it was. What a climb. Photo: courtesy of "Iron and friend" , pitch 3 The plan was so last minute, but the weather screamed for it. I managed to hook up a car pool partnership for the drive from Pullman. We were both not excited about our 3rd drive from there in the last few weekends. The pull of the plan was very compelling though. Beaus team was going after Colonial, and Rolf I and I were headed to Pyramid. Their Trip turned out pretty nice . Rolfs plan was to go up a ways to the right of a route that I had always hoped to repeat some day. I wasnt expecting something so steep as this however. the intimidation factor was enhanced by the fact that we left a little too early and in the dark the steepness was terrifiying. Did not see much ice either. the first pitch was looking to be near vert the whole way, and to play beyond leaving a back off peice needed to be discussed. After seeing it in daylight however, it looked more doable. I took a whack at it knowing the second pitch was riddled with a couple of overhangs. (evillaugh) The 2 start pitches set the tone for a heck of a ride as the 4th was a crazy vertical smear of thin ice and snow over rock. Rolf had a great lead on that pitch too. I moved the belay and got the dibbs on the crux icicles. They were undercut by small roofs and filled in with pillow snow. After excavating them away, It was pure campus up to the spot in between the icicles where I didnt have room to swing. I got real pumped after 15 attempted swings . once I pulled around to the first foothold, my arms were done. I remembered an clever trick Tim showed me that involved pulling your rope over the top of your axe to tension into a rest. I used it to place a screw and rest the rubber that had replaced my arms. . Another stretch of steeps and Rolf got the last real lead to get to the deep snow simo-wallow the the summit. A truly incredible view from that peak for sure. A truly amazing route as well. Sorry no pics from me, but maybe Iron will help out with that. Edit note... It is cool to come full circle. In feb-'03 David and I were coming down from Colonial, just as Bobs team was coming down from Pyramid. Now I helped a party hook up to do Colonial as we are doing Pyramid 7 years later.
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[TR] Leigh Lake/Snowshoe Peak MT - Lake Side Ice 2/21/2010
wayne replied to Skatan's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Awesome keep posting that stuff! -
[TR] Easton, WA - Old Mans Nose 2/14/2010
wayne replied to RokIzGud's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
Nice tree picture -
first ascent [TR] NF Colonial Peak - FA: "First Date" Gr.IV AI3/M3 2/21/2010
wayne replied to Dirtyleaf's topic in North Cascades
Cool, Glad it worked out! We got that route done on Pyramid. It's the right hand face of your 10th photo. Look for it on store shelves soon. -
It's Alpine Season. There better be some knar trs Bishes!!
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Cool! Who where you there with?
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Dane= Ice Pimp There should be a Dane Appreciation Thread!
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Orbit
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Yes thanks, Please get them back to jcp.
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If you grabbed them, Thanks , and please contact this gentleman
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It took me 6 tries to do this ascent! I dont know your comfort level, but it makes a great solo.
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I feel your pain Braydon. Brett and Dave , did you get your screw back?