Wow, gripping
My friend, you have a talent for writing. Left to say though, hopefully not only while pressed for survival. Gripping tale, and thanks for your climbing and writing initiative. Tough to do either.
As for the difficulty issue... there may be technically more difficult routes, but done under safer circumstances. The pucker factor cannot be denied and you captured it well. My direct comparisons suffer due to the fact that we skipped the first gendarme, and I caught the route in great ice conditions, We were placing screws and good pickets the whole way.
Great work and welcome to the arena, Wayne