wayne

Does anyone know when it is expected out? I am looking forward to the Latok article, among others.

Wow, gripping My friend, you have a talent for writing. Left to say though, hopefully not only while pressed for survival. Gripping tale, and thanks for your climbing and writing initiative. Tough to do either. As for the difficulty issue... there may be technically more difficult routes, but done under safer circumstances. The pucker factor cannot be denied and you captured it well. My direct comparisons suffer due to the fact that we skipped the first gendarme, and I caught the route in great ice conditions, We were placing screws and good pickets the whole way. Great work and welcome to the arena, Wayne

Jeeps, that does look "fun"

Wow, sounds like a great adventure.

Now, Only 6 of the possible 12 routes have been done on the Spider. I hope my project on the N side stays secret until the new guide "outs" it.

Just saw this thread.. The bolted routes at the base of Wind mt- south end are an upper road cut, They were interesting trad when I climbed there in the 90s. They are good climbs and interestingly enough , they are granite in nature! The upper wind mt clibs are looser basalt. There is an obvious dihedral that I was gunning for when the huge death whipper took place. Thanks again Tim. Steve Elder the Kiwi hardman, later went back and did the route solo!

Heck yeah, thanks for that Bill.

Beware of short headings on emails from friends with Hotmail addresses! Is this happening to anybody else. I have recently received 2 spams from friends whose hotmail got hacked. Should I delete my hmail acct? Should I get more pharmaceuticals?

Sure is,That woman is smooth. Where is that climb? Hey Kev, I thank you in the last video . It is in the ice forum, Can. Rock and Ice

[video:vimeo]10452288

It is also teh prime time to mount the Hood. You can get back to your rocks soon enough.(:alpine snootiness:)

Well done Lads! Fine looking adventure !

Mark my words, it will get violent this summer.

He is stopping to belay there again.

another tug for the Panasonic z series, Amazing camera. I do all my vids with it too

Wow. Welcome back Iaxx! Yo Billy! Great report and climbing guys.

bump, edit above

Update. The "Unclimbed Ice" in the above photo and video, is no longer unclimbed. Congratulations Guys! Fric/Amos Route

Very fun, thanks, and good show of character!

Trip: Can. Rockies Ice and Rock - Date: 3/20/2010 Trip Report: We planned this trip long ago, thinking our exile in Eastern Wa would limit our climbing activities. Little did we know that we would be climbing 9 out of the last 10 weekends just prior to a great trip to the Rockies. Beau and I were burnt out when we left for Canmore, but we were headed to the Rockies for crying-out-loud! The topper was the chance to hook up with the legendary US alpinist Steve S. and get some inside beta and rope gun service. Talk of avy danger did indeed send many, mostly guided, parties a crashing at all the available good spots. Getting "scooped" by other parties meant 3am starts on the bigger objectives, or leaving later in the day to be the second or third wave on a given route. We started our run at the Evan Thomas creek area doing a 2 pitch route in thin conditions called Too Cold for Zero. It was unpicked and way fun! We did another cool route -Moonlight after it vacated. Next day, the Colonel sent the troops to Yamnuska to have a go at rock climbing on a very large wall, too be sure. We took a line called Jimmy and the Cruisers. 6 pitches 5.11. It was amazingly exposed. I wish I had Steves photos of the crux. It had absolutely nauseating exposure. You can see a climber behind his left shoulder! It was back to the war room to make the most complicated battle plan yet: 2 teams would be launched to do to separate routes in the Ghost. Steve and Beau would secure Hydrophobia and hike over the top to rappel into Sorcerer and attack that link-up in full daylight. My Team (TEAM AMERICA! F-YEAH), campaigned the Sorcerer first then we failed to get ahead in time of 2 other teams drafting on our other assault squad on Hydrophobia. Oh well, the needs of the many... Hydropobia Rob on the Scorcerer Me leading the last pitch. Now that was a long day! A few hours of sleep and the war raged on with Steve and I heading for a long standing dream of mine: Nemesis! Pitch#46 of ice for the season It was picked out like all the biggies, but hey, It is mid March. It was the best route I have done in the park though. What a trip we had, hanging out with great people and capping(?) a super season. More photos on my blog and,Yes, there should be a video sometime soon. Please do trip reports and join the AAC, Colonels ORDERS!

My friend tried it in the early 90s. He had tales of glacial earthquakes and danger. They did not summit.

Yep, The Cross fitters one was very funny too.

Though the Elder /Russell was done in summer, it is not recommended!

Thank you Gene, but I beg to differ, It probably comes in near every year. It is up at 10,000'. I only saw it "out" a few times when it may have been dry. I saw it in many times, but a series of unfortunate incidences (mostly weather and deep snow) kept the carrot away.

It also depends on how their winter plays out. They are getting pounded with snow this year I think . It may extend the season on the route unless it gets real warm too.