wayne
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Everything posted by wayne
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i couldnt agree more and... Go do Mongo and tell me there is no grade 6 in this state. or stfu.
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first ascent [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201
wayne replied to wayne's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
The biggest one have online is on my old website with the "Oregon Page" . I could email you the file I have now. It is a scan anyways so it is not so hot. The material I have seen from the new guide will be top notch. Wish I could out it for you all -
Trip Report - Rooster Rock Attempt 8-25-09
wayne replied to Corduroy Man's topic in Columbia River Gorge
Nice Cords! I have great memories of that rock. You should spend the night on top, It is amazing! And lots of people have climbed Crown Point , a couple of trs around too. Good hunting, -
Attention all you ice crazies... Please help the new guide put together a topo for the north face on the Illumination Rock. With multiple routes now and lots of potential, it now would make a great last minute addition. Also if anyone has a good photo, or can volunteer to go up there in late afternoon , it could do wonders, Thanks , Wayne _________________________
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[TR] Illumination Rock - Northern Skylight - II M5+ 3/4/2010
wayne replied to ColinB's topic in Oregon Cascades
Attention all you ice crazies... Please help the new guide put together a topo for this face on the Illuminated One. With multiple routes now and lots of potential, it now would make a great last minute addition. Also if anyone has a good photo too, or can volunteer to go up there in late afternoon , it could do wonders, Thanks , Wayne -
[TR] Illumination Rock - Northern Skylight - II M5+ 3/4/2010
wayne replied to ColinB's topic in Oregon Cascades
Jeez, What an aggressive looking route!!! Great job! I dont know how to better get the word out about these places to Portland Ice climbers. You guys REALLY do have the best the sport has to offer. Long season too. -
first ascent [TR] Assassin Spire - NW Face (IV, WI4+) FA
wayne replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in North Cascades
My girlfriend directly forbid me to Come and get it Canadians!! -
Wow your second photo has a good shot of the upper pitch. C Drip is the one on the right." Unclimbed " is on the left. I here the Canadians are headed for that? Nice trip,btw
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first ascent [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201
wayne replied to wayne's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Arach is so fat all the way. A direct finish is begging for your tools. Look for the window guys, as long as it doesnt get too warm -
Nice! I think that is the Kellogg/Aylward line? Splitshot
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first ascent [TR] Assassin Spire - NW Face (IV, WI4+) FA
wayne replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in North Cascades
Wow, there really is ice in Washington? Seriously though, Congratulations on the historic ascent you guys! -
first ascent [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201
wayne replied to wayne's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Thanks, we were up at 5 am from our 8000' camp and summited at 10 am. Waiting to thank the guy who gave us an apple at the summit. -
first ascent [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201
wayne replied to wayne's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Nope , it is on the video as "unclimbed". I am leaving for your generation. Dont make us Washingtonians poach all of your good lines! -
It looks like the left line,"Unclimbed Ice" just got done and the ice on the wall is in good still. Way to step up Guys! I think there are several possibilities on that left wall.There are a few more cool looking lines to fill in around Arachno as well.
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first ascent [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201
wayne posted a topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Trip: Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider Date: 3/6/2010 Trip Report: [video:vimeo]9993722 Over the last 23 or so years, I developed an interest (read: obsession) with the ice climbs up an obscure volcanic wall on the East Face of mt Hood. I first viewed the face while doing a solo ski traverse around the upper Mt. Hood in 1987. Jeff Thomas’ Oregon High book had some questions looking for any information on the Eiger like wall. The hook was very set, as it was basically untouched and offered 6-10 big climbs around 1000' feet tall. Without any info, I started a campaign of exploration up its many ice routes with great results. Steve Elder and I did the first ascent of the main wall in feb-94, followed by a couple other routes that were nothing less than astounding alpine climbs of the highest order. Then I began a long series of attempts on the “Center Drip”‘ that took the best line on the entire face. Finding never-ending setbacks with weather and conditions, my patience wore thin after more than a dozen attempts. It finally came together this March with reports of Ice on the wall from 2 great sources. My local Pullman partner , Beau- accompanied me on our successful bid. The climb went so very well.We did it in blocks with 4 total pitches , the final crux one was a full 60 m of airy positioning. The route was an instant classic and deserves many ascents in the future. Besides incredible ambience, It is a very doable route as well.We had a great time on this wonderful classic climb. Enjoy the pictures and video, It felt really great to wrap up such a project. I will do a blow-by blow if wanted and I must promote the new Climbing Guide to Mt. Hood expected out this fall! As always, looking forward to your trip report, Wayne My 38th ice pitch this season. -
Great report, Who's blog is that?
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Thanks guys, I am sure they are in, The Spider was medium to fat. I have finished the video and will post it soon. There will be a tr posted in the ice climbing forum.
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Thought I would post the news here first, since the pictures were a big part of the story. After 14 tries, We finally got the Center Drip done on the Black Spider. Thanks you guys for the pics and the stoke. I left a few details on my blog. There should be a fine tr soon
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[TR] Chair Peak - North Face + NE Buttress 3/1/2010
wayne replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in Alpine Lakes
Animals! -
I like monos for everything except crappy alpine ice, but can seem to loose them on that either
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Good to see few of these got done!
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Great Dane! Always wanted to say that.
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Love it! Great shots of Dome and pooch.