texplorer

Billy, maybe a good thing you turned back. Was talking to a friend who was up there last weekend and said that the upper pitches on both glisan and the true summit were pretty heavily rimed up. He said that it was tricky climbing and probably no way to get pro in so they retreated. Anyway, nice TR.

Everyone else is actually out trying to climb routes over 5.6

That depends on what kind of climbing you are looking for. The PNW has alot of everything though. I would definetly visit leavenworth, Smith if you like sport, and squamish isn't bad if you can make it up that far. There are lots of mountain routes and of course some of the best alpine routes anywhere here that you'll be in prime season to get on. I would recommend doing a search of this site for older threads about "best routes," "favorite climbs," etc. You'll find some real peach routes whatever your poison is. Oh, and we like and lots of up here but watch out for the killer Good luck

Take lots of pics Crackman and give me the beta so I can go next weekend. I have been meaning to do that thing for a long time too but instead have been trying to climb country music singers routes out of season this year.

I am thinking of moving to the seattle area next fall. Is the job market really that bad up there?

I never knew so much thought was ever put into rating systems. I suppose climbers spending hours awaiting abatement of inclement weather need something to wisp away the hours. The crux of development of a comprehensive rating system seems to be including these factors in a short easy to understand number or letter grade: *difficulty and quality of rock, ice, mixed climbing and snow *length of each of the segments of a climb *hazards on route ex. crevasses, avalanche, cornices, altitude, wildlife (cougars), and rock and icefall *approach/ return including ease of descent *commitment factor and remoteness My favorite guidebook uses the BBB system (Brayshaw/Bourban/Beckey) rating system. It seems to come the closest to giving an accurate estimation of what the climb is like. # of indicates how adept you should be at that local area. i.e. if you head to prussik peak you should be familiar with snafflehound deterrent practices, ranger avoidance, and the burgner/stanley version of 5.9 # of indicates logistical needs for climb such as food, gear necessary. Example: The nose of el cap might be a climb. # of indicates how much of a hardman you must be such as . . . . .can you drink an old E while fingerlocking might be a climb.

Just when I was about to abandon hope of climbing posts on the site we are finally talking about climbing. What I want to know is how mixed climbing, where you can clip bolts, is so much more "extreme" and difficult than sketchy hard ice where the pro is marginal or psychological.

.. . unless of course you are packing cans of refried beans and eggs

Did people really climb before goretex and met5's?

I don't really know what this thread is all about but at least I got a few laughs out of it and its not about politics.

thanks for the info dber

Just have to wait and see what the weather will be like next week. I didn't mean to discourage you from going up though. You sometimes have to just go and see for yourself. I have gone many times when people said conditions were poor and made out just fine. After all, TG and I tried one of the hardest routes on Hood knowing it was about as out of season as it could get. That's how you get stories to tell the grandkids if you live to make some.

Ancient arts is a fun mellow climb. We took video of the last bit at the top ascending the spire. Quite funny to watch your knees tremble later.

Craig, I would not go up Leuthold unless it gets cold up there due to rock and ice funnelling right down onto you. The wy-east might be doable but watch out if lots of snow falls. You traverse alot of possible avy prone slopes on that route. I would just wait it out a couple of weeks

next time there's free beer and pizza let me know in advance!!

I have heard all this stuff before but I suspect the stories are bigger than the actual experience. I know its bound to be dirty but I hear that the rock underneath is actually pretty solid and with it being a 50 classic and all I would suspect it to be climbed often.

I guess I've had the ghetto fries many times Dru. Oh, and Nachoman, I like powdered milk. I don't even buy real milk know cause the powdered stuff lasts longer is cheaper, and . . well do you really taste milk in cereal anyway? And they say you don't learn anything on roadtrips. For all the rest of you don't know you know that and should be the mainstay of your diet. You might tote along some cheese in your pockets too.

Have any of you climbed the Titan in the Fisher Towers of Utah? I would like to get some real person beta-

I agree Geek. I actually wish more people were like scorpio and would just shut up and climb instead of debate if this climb is a easy .10c or a .10b with one hard move or some other shit like that. However, if you have less than 100 posts on this board you are subject to be sprayed no matter what you post because we all know the more you post the better the climber you are. It's our way here at CC.com of saying "your welcome here.. . . that is unless your a wanker who doesn't eat horsecock and cheese for breakfast."

Yea, supercrack is actually doable too if we can figure out that offwidth business at the top. It may be one of those -stick in a #5 and lie-back for 10ft to the anchors.

Why don't we start our own climber's company and make our own gear to rival the big guys. We can call it . .. .hmmmm. . . .Recreational Equiment Inc. . . oh wait. Why don't we get really big and then start selling little key chain biners to soccer moms too.

I hear dueling banjos on this post. What's that Trask? No I don't have purty lips.

Good comments, I have been popped in the tooth with several nuts coming out but luckily no chippage as of yet.

Fritschi's make good coat racks. I installed mine on some beautiful K2 piste off skis in a cornger and they are great for hanging coats, drying ice gear, etc.