texplorer

Looks tasty, wish I was there.

We have found crack soothes creaky gates and leads to transcendence of the vile bolted routes such as the chossy multi-pitch routes on the backside at Smith. Hmmmmm.. . . .

You're a witty fella, aren't you? Careful coupling Pope's nom du screen with DFA's; you're liable to incur his Holy Traditional Wrath! Traditional wrath? I thought you were a sporto? Oh, and does Blue light special have a hold broken or something. That thing is NOT .11a!

When not working on the rock my gear spends most of its time relaxing on the floor of my quad or vacationing in the trunk of my car. Only a few pieces have tried to commit suicide by jumping from the rack while on the rock. Luckily, most were only banged up. We here at the Duncan Home for Gear have had the difficulty of dealing with a few carabiner runaways but overall our success rate is high with many pieces of pro leading active (and passive) lives. If you know any gear that could use a good home please contact us. We hate to see pieces of good pro go bad. Our facilities may seem meager but we promise excellent accomadations in which they will share a spot on a wonderful metolious gear loop. As an added bonus we take weekly field trips to mountains and crags around the world.

Enough of this talk about ovals, I want to hear more about CAPS vs. non-capitolization

Stilton, Ian is right on the mark for Beacon. It is a fantastic place. My biggest gripe is that it is only open for a limited time during the climbing season. Like Ian says, its not really a beginner friendly area but that is appealing for many that go there. I find the routes to have an alpine feel even though you are minutes from the car. In my personal opinion, Beacon has multi pitch routes in which all the pitches are quality lines in their own right. The portland rock is should be a good start to the numberous climbs there.

Damn, I'm jealous Crackman. We gotta go do something cool this spring.

Blah blah blah, why can't you guys be like the rest of us and just watch some golf on TV on weekends or something. Nice work gents, GREAT PICS

Quote: OK the Oval carabiner thread was allright, but let's build on that and produce more climbing-related diversion!!! we could.... ROUND II 1) spray about climbed lines THAT SHOULD BE CHOPPED(blah blah blah, Dan's DD should have been chopped because) 2) chestbeat about what we're gonna climb VIA NUDE ASCENT IN THE NEXT YEAR, 3) talk about Gear. DO YOU THINK 3 PLY HEMP OR GOLDLINE IS BETTER. What's better, PINK LYCRA OR NEON GREEN STRIPES (DFA?) 4) talk about ethics. WHEN IS IT "OK" TO PEE ON YOUR PARTNER AND/OR OTHER PARTIES ON YOUR ROUTE 5) make up gossip about DRU, BRIAN BOYTONO etc. 6) play Name that PORNO STAR ??????? 7) discuss which hand to use FOR HOLDING BEER WHILE BELAYING 8) everyone make an avatar and post a fake trip report ABOUT A GETTING STUCK ON A MOUNTAIN WITH TWO WOMEN IN A TWO-PERSON TENT. 9) HOW TO TELL IF ALPINE HOOKERS ARE UNDERCOVER CLIMBING CHICKS. discuss. 10) what is THE BEST ROUTE TO SOLO IN NW? BEACON ROCKS' SOUTHEAST CORNER, SMITH'S SUPERSLAB, OR LEAVENWORTHS GIVLERS DOME 11) TELL THE TRUTH about your climbing aility and resume 12) quickdrawws - ARE YOU FOR THE BLACK-CLAD VILLIAN OR THE WHITE-HAT GOOD GUY 13) discuss whether it would be possible to CLIMB 30 EXIT 38 ROUTES in a day, and if doing so puts you on the list of strongest climbers in washington. construct a list of 10 STUPIDIST climbers in washington and justify your choice ad nauseum. 14) what are the 5 best WOMEN/MEN you have ever done in your whole life. no spraying please. 15) what was the first route you SPRAYED THAT YOU CLIMBED ON CC.COM?

Although acknowledgement of "freshiez" would be a step down for the CC.com website perhaps we could hope to contain this epidemic plagueing the climbing community. For some time climbers, especially in the NW, have partaken in what is referred to as a variety of snow "sports" for a select few months of the year. Although these gravity driven sports may seem to bear merit they are in fact a danger to the ever-decreasing ranks of climbing hardmen. Not only is the "sport" dangerous but who knows what damage has already been done to the snafflehound population. Please join me in my campaign of F@#$ing the Freshiez. Lets open a new forum to the purveyors of evil, those clunky-booted heathen so they may foul only their own kind leaving the pure and noble rock climber to his virtuous pursuits. Snaffle-on

Mini-me takes up mountaineering

The church lady says, "CC.com is the Deaaaviilllll!"

I don't know what your talking about, down here in Oregon is where all the sick ice is right now.

catdude, I don't know if I would say the bergshrund is filled in as much as it is bridged over. Nonetheless, I was at Smith and had a great day. I am sure Hood was spectacular as well.

"Tuned guitars and firm feelin women are the only two things in life that make it worth livin-" Old Benny F. said -Visitors and fish stink after three days- but climbers seem to think they are exempt from this adage I wish I was smart instead of beautiful

Billy, maybe a good thing you turned back. Was talking to a friend who was up there last weekend and said that the upper pitches on both glisan and the true summit were pretty heavily rimed up. He said that it was tricky climbing and probably no way to get pro in so they retreated. Anyway, nice TR.

Everyone else is actually out trying to climb routes over 5.6

That depends on what kind of climbing you are looking for. The PNW has alot of everything though. I would definetly visit leavenworth, Smith if you like sport, and squamish isn't bad if you can make it up that far. There are lots of mountain routes and of course some of the best alpine routes anywhere here that you'll be in prime season to get on. I would recommend doing a search of this site for older threads about "best routes," "favorite climbs," etc. You'll find some real peach routes whatever your poison is. Oh, and we like and lots of up here but watch out for the killer Good luck

Take lots of pics Crackman and give me the beta so I can go next weekend. I have been meaning to do that thing for a long time too but instead have been trying to climb country music singers routes out of season this year.

I am thinking of moving to the seattle area next fall. Is the job market really that bad up there?

I never knew so much thought was ever put into rating systems. I suppose climbers spending hours awaiting abatement of inclement weather need something to wisp away the hours. The crux of development of a comprehensive rating system seems to be including these factors in a short easy to understand number or letter grade: *difficulty and quality of rock, ice, mixed climbing and snow *length of each of the segments of a climb *hazards on route ex. crevasses, avalanche, cornices, altitude, wildlife (cougars), and rock and icefall *approach/ return including ease of descent *commitment factor and remoteness My favorite guidebook uses the BBB system (Brayshaw/Bourban/Beckey) rating system. It seems to come the closest to giving an accurate estimation of what the climb is like. # of indicates how adept you should be at that local area. i.e. if you head to prussik peak you should be familiar with snafflehound deterrent practices, ranger avoidance, and the burgner/stanley version of 5.9 # of indicates logistical needs for climb such as food, gear necessary. Example: The nose of el cap might be a climb. # of indicates how much of a hardman you must be such as . . . . .can you drink an old E while fingerlocking might be a climb.

Just when I was about to abandon hope of climbing posts on the site we are finally talking about climbing. What I want to know is how mixed climbing, where you can clip bolts, is so much more "extreme" and difficult than sketchy hard ice where the pro is marginal or psychological.

.. . unless of course you are packing cans of refried beans and eggs

Did people really climb before goretex and met5's?