texplorer

Why am I in this forum category?

I personally flame TR's under another ava. . . . . . I mean I love TR's. I have been hesitant to post TR's because In am inherently a chestbeater so I have to watch myself. I actuality I like reading them and learn a great deal not only about the routes but about the people behind the TR. Few of us are as eloquent as TG but I wish eveyone would post more of em. Whether you encounter cougars or snaffles some of us really want to hear about your epics at exit 38.

I think Xavier Masters sometimes visits this site.

Don't let Ian see this post but the best thing for heading up to Tilly Jane or Cloudcap is skinning up the old sticks.

Reminds me of a thread a few years back about dogs biting a girls ass at Smith. funny stuff.

If a skier falls on a mountain, falls into a crevasse, and is lost to the world for a million years, . . . does anyone notice?

If dogs can climb it, is it really mountaineering? (avy-poodles not included)

I like the pics but the hand drawn route pics suck. I wandered around many a days looking for climbs. It definetly fills a need however. Someone should do a new book updated and easier to use. I also heard that Olsen is a little bit of a wacko.

Yea Dulton, I would watch out for those skier/boarders such as Ian. I hear they can be cold and condescending to those of us who practice the purest forms of mountaineering. Other than that he is probably a good guy who just has been lured by the dark arts of the speed descensionists.

I think you might know the crankin Mr. Fejas, ryland.

GUMBY ALERT !! GUMBY ALERT !! GUMBY ALERT !! GUMBY ALERT !! GUMBY ALERT !! GUMBY ALERT !! GUMBY ALERT !!

christian dude, sounds like your a decent climber but they will execute you for mistyping things around here. I would also recommend the Yoakum ridge on Hood.

I only have climbed the overeasy roue and have been known to poach days in the wilderness before.

In the words of Homer Simpson "DDAAAAAOOOOO". Thanks B-rock.

Basically when you get to a "good" hold or stance really rest up. If that means standing there for a long time while your belayer bitches at you then so be it. One thing to remember however is that there is a point of diminishing returns. If you have cranked on a series of small pockets, crimpers, etc maybe resting on an OK hold will allow some depumpification but only to a point and then you should just head on.

Where's the pic Craig?

Good thing noone fell on the dynamite. Did you see any cougars?

Maybe so, but at a closer inspection of the pic I detect a slight recurve on the pick. Busted!!!

So your saying the student has become the master.

Maybe that's why I agree with you DFA. I too learned the dark art of sport climbing from Martin.

I admit that the a 55-60 aluminum shafted job would probably be better for a short glacier crosssing (although I would rather have aluminum crampons and no ax) and any of those lamo slopes that people think are fun to ski down. My point, I guess was that once you advance past the slog routes and start getting into steeper rock/ice that an ice tool although a pound or so heavier would be immensely more useful and would save you from taking a mtneering ax AND a tool.

Does what DFA was saying sound familiar Jason. I also agree with him on the "staying calm" issue. That helped me alot. Col. Spanker, I agree with the use of ques to get yourself in "the zone" but I believe those should be performed before you actually get on a route. Chalking whilst clinging to a crimp or somesuch hold will only waste valuable seconds and strength. Chalking may be necessary but should be limited to when needed.

I have concluded that I can replace my traditional mountaineering ax for an ice tool. I feel the primary use of a traditional ax is for self arrest on lower angle terrain and I have yet to actually fall on a slope in which self arrest is possible. In any case if one were to fall on a slope, I would say an ice tool would work almost as well in most situations. In addition ice tools have many more situations in which they are clearly more useful. Besides perhaps an advantage of weight are there any other uses I have failed to consider.

You Leavitate

Yea, they should have been skiing last weekend.