texplorer

Had a fantastic weekend up in Squamish. Highlander and I pushed our trad leading abilities in perfect weather. It wasn't even cold at nights! I also got to take my biggest trad fall yet - a 25 ft-er on a yellow alien stopping 2 ft above a ledge. We ended the weekend on a .10c Exasperator that may be the finest finger crack I have ever seen.

Dear Darwin Awards. . . . . .

Spit Beaver (.10b) was pretty cool. I wish I had one of those in my yard to do laps on. Highlander and I got some good practice at that f*&^ing off-hands size.

Exasperator Crack is the finest fingercrack I have ever done.

Happy thanksgiving suckas, I'll be up in Squamy trying to pick up the vancouver girls -(oh and doin alittle climbin too)

quote: Originally posted by ehmmic: REI is getting into the dating game. "Would you go to REI to meet other single people?" Hi my name is Erik. I have received such accolades as the AlpenLite Climbing Bum of the Month. My hobbies are climbing, cuddling, and smoking pot. In seach of hot alpine hooker with a nice rack and and her own bowls.

I recently had a pleasant experience at a local gear store. The online site www.backcountrygear.com is based here in Eugene and has a small local store. They replaced a defective headlamp I purchased there no questions asked and always have had a friendly attitude. I know this is not a big deal but its good to know that there are still local places that treat climbers right and aren't all about selling out to the masses. Just my two cents - and they have a good deal on petzl ascenders right now.

I broke my adze once. I couldn't sit down for a couple of weeks.

At least they still allow smoking in the hut. Do we get a complimentary altitude aclimitization dubbie with that $30?

Not since my first naive days as a beginning climber have I intentionally put myself in as much danger. I cannot add to the Free-beer-giving Lord of Spray's eloquent account of our attempt at this noble and harrowing route. Thanks for the experience TG. The Yokum was even more awe inspiring and impressive than I had anticipated. Exposure, position, and the classic choss we all know and love affirm that it will haunt me until I return to pluck this gem from the heavens. Carpe Diem

I have noticed the same "dent" form in my shoes before. If your doing alot of sport the main wear is on the tip and right on the end of your toes but I have found with more trad stuff I have wear my shoes more in the area which you are talking about. I have a pair that has a paper thin layer at that spot that I am going to send in to repair.

Well as long as everyone else is spraying Texplorer's top 5 1) Ticking all 8 of the "50 Classics" in yosemite (Salathe Wall, The Nose, Steck-Salathe, Lost arrow spire, fairview dome, Half dome, Royal Arches, NE buttress of Middle Cathedral) 2) Breaking into the trad .11's and sport .12's 3) Learning to aid climb in Zion (Touchstone, Spaceshot, Moonlight buttress) 4) Climbing the desert cracks, big walls, and towers 5) Spending 6 months climbing and meeting so many new climbers on the road and from CC.com Honorable Mention -Becoming the foremost authority on Snafflehounds Texplorers' worsts 1) Adventure with the Highlander on Slesse (got lost-made an unintenional first ascent up proless pitches and grass filled .10 cracks) 2) Pulling a piece and almost decking on a climb (Battle of the Bulge) at Indian Creek

I initially started by TRing like almost everyone. After watching a few people lead I thought, "That doesn't look that hard." All you do is clip those thingys and then clip the rope into those other thingys. Then I read Freedom of the Hills- and gave it a go. That simple.

Thanks for the suggestions. I think being a hardman is truly a matter of perspective. I know the climbers that I admire and aspire to be like. In reality I know I will never probably be a 'hardman' but will be lumped into the world of mediocrity. I am ok with that since I just climb for fun but I do like challenges. I also like to see what it takes to climb harder routes and imagine what it must have been like for the first ascensionists. Livin down here in Oregon you just don't hear about routes that are a little more involved elsewhere. -Carpe Diem

I am looking for a new 'project' climb. So I was wondering what other climbs I have to check off before I can call myself a true NW Hardman. So if you had to name one route, be it alpine sufferfests, big mountain slogs, or a roadside crag pitch, what ONE climb would you say is quintessentially a route that only the hardest of the hard would or could do.

Yea Jens, I don't know what it is about Portland. I wandered around for about a year looking for partners there. Beacon is a fine crag but there's hardly ever anyone there. Same experience I had at the PRG too. Everyone just wants to boulder.

I thought Zilla was thought provoking and fun incorporating several different kinds of technical climbing on one route.

I met Jared climbing near his hometown of Durango last spring. He seems like a pretty cool guy that can really crank down. [ 11-15-2002, 04:09 PM: Message edited by: texplorer ]

Highlander and Caveman putting their overgrown snaffle to good use. This rare breed of snaffle was once common in the pacific NW but is very rare now. Many scientists speculate that their numbers are decreasing due to the reliance of climbers on the beasts as an emergency bivy sack when stranded in cold condtions.

[ 11-15-2002, 01:12 AM: Message edited by: texplorer ]

There's only room for one 'Tex' on this board! This guys nickname should be 'Wood' or something. . . Because and the original Tex -the texplorer!!!!! Eat

If we weren't weird you wouldn't be visiting this site to see what the hell so-in-so is going to say next. So here's my contribution to the oddity we call CC. You can have friends with jugs and cracks, and you can climb on jugs and in cracks, but be careful when climbing on friends' jugs and in their cracks.

does via ferrata mean literally -by way of iron

Soloing is still soloing, but . . .Steph has little hands some 5.11's are like a perfect hand jam for her anyway. Lets see her solo a wide crack 5.11. Then I'll be impressed. Ok, if she even solos a 5.10 OW I would be impressed.

Ryland, You might also think about Adams. It has a great ski off (if your into that). You might have to take one day to approach but you can ski all the way from the summit all the way out on the forrest roads.