texplorer

Merry Christmas Necro-hope you like the gift of stars. What I want to know is when I won't be a bumblygumby anymore. I miss my old zen spraymaster status.

What was that ChrisT and Muffy,. . . You think foghorn leghorn is hot?

Ohhh, I lost a star cause of that one.

Is that Trent Lot in the foreground of that pic trask?

Or dispose of the ranger's body in one of them big crevasses.

Ben, Rope slippage is normal and allows for a softer fall taking place over a longer period of time decreasing forces on the system. Though the rope usually slips in most falls it is seldom more than a few inches and not usually enough to result in burns.

MattP, That is some of the best fiction I have read in awhile.

Amen brothas

When the ranger stops you to ask if you payed your fee just tell him a long story about how you read this post on this website posted by the guy named Dru but that he really didn't write it and that this other canadian bad ass ice climber guy wrote it and that it says climbing is a religion and so the government shouldn't be able to charge a few bucks to practice your religion and that you'll take it to the supreme court or if that doesn't work you'll take it to the supremer court and that you think that is probably what happened along time ago and that is why these cone-shaped mountains up here blow their tops every now and then.

How do you decend a weighted, tight, rope efficiently with no clothes on, no gri gri, no brains, no extra rope, no brains, no beer, no passing go, no prussiks, no belay device, only one oval biner on your harness? My first guess, which works, is to use your and wrap it around the biner to make a sort of kleimheist, but that is very timely and could lead to infertility. Any other tricks out there? I am just being a dumass, no offense should be taken by Senior Simpkins or anyone else who has an affinity to be prepared for the emergency that occurs with the statistically probability of winning the lottery.

Damn Dru, It is so hard to narrow it down. My road trip this last year was filled with so many fun days. If I had to name just one I guess it would have to be on the Steck-Salathe in Yosemite. It was right at the end of my roadtrip and so I was feeling like a honed climber and such. There were four of us and we climbed in two parties of two. At every belay we were joking and I couldn't believe the quality, position, of the route. There didn't seem to be a single bad pitch. I can still remember so many pitches on that climb. Damn, I want to go climbing!!!

For the record, I was entertained by your post, Ade. Buffy, The Druids are usually thought of when talking about the solstices, equinox, etc because of the incorrect views that they were the ancient people that built stonehenge and many of the other ancient stone monuments in brittain. In reality stonehenge and many of the other stone calenders were built long before the "druids" were around. Now as for our friend Dru, well he might be immortal or something.

I have caught some big whippers, aided big walls, rapped with heavy loads all without the use of gloves. For the most part I think they are kind of a luxury but not truly necessary. That being said I haven't had alot of trouble whilst belaying with my BD "puffy" gloves on cold mtn routes. You do lose some sensitivity with the "puffy" gloves however.

Catbirdseat or Brian or whoever, 1)The main difference between leading trad and sport in my opinion is fear. If you are a truly competent trad leader in most situations you should be able to place gear that is sufficient to take falls upon. Yes, you are correct in always checking your gear each time you fall on it. I sometimes even place another piece while hanging just to add a bit of confidence before attempting the moves above again. Leading trad at your limit is simply learning to overcome the fear you have about your gear failing (beside learning to climb cracks). 2) Not to say that belay gloves don't work but I've held many falls and never gotten rope burn on my hands. I don't know if they are actually a necessity of climbing if correct belay technique is used and the belayer is paying attention. Sounds like you are used to pushing your limits. If you feel your trad gear placements could be better try just getting alot of practice on easier climbs with someone who can critique them. I learned an immense amount about the stability of placements whilst learning to aid this last year. Whatever your goals, remember to be safe but don't let irrational fears limit you. Carpe Diem

Sometimes I wish I was a canadian...

Why didn't I think of Spring Mountain. I was here being pissed about the weather. I hear that place is almost worth the drive.

Socks = Aid

Just to add to DFA's comments on Red Rocks-You can also go to the black velvet canyon which is FREE and climb several multipitch .10 sport routes. The grades there are also soft compared to smith so if your a .10a-b leader then you should be able to at least get up .10c's. Last year about this time I was climbing .11a-b sport stuff at smith and went down there and onsighted several .11ds. I just slept in my car in casino parking lots and there's a walmart lot right on your way out of town too.

All this sounds like "Mountaineer" geek talk to me.

.. . .Thus was the beginning of a series of solos for jj which would propel him to the forefront of the climbing world. Perhaps the greatest 5.4 solo'er of our time. Just kidding dude, Nice job, there is nothing more thrilling for me than a nice easy solo in the mountains.

Adventure Pimpz in da Hizouse!!

I thought climbing in the NW had nothing to do with good conditions

Absoutely F'ing nothing. I hope you FRESHIEZ lover's are happy.

Nice pics and congrats. Makes me want to head up there this weekend.

In response to Santa's unfair control of christmas gifts in the last couple of years the Bush administration has decided to act. They have decided that Santa's claim that, "American boys and girls are just plain naughty" is an elaborate cover for a grander scheme. After over 2 years of blockading the north pole from everthing but medical supplies and cookies they have refused to budge. UN inspectors have been repeatedly denied access to sites that are suspected factorys producing toys of mass destruction. Just last week satelite photos show what appear to be truckloads of boxes marked "Army toys" and "RRyder BB Guns". It appears the buildup of arms in the middle-east is only a staging ground for what is sure to be a battle of global impications in the polar desert to the north. Despite the most sophisticated technology the Rumsfeld says they have still not been able to determine the exact whereabouts of the infamous Santa Claus. They suspect he is bein supported by militant christian religious factions. Unverified reports even indicate he has been seen on rooftops across the US in recent days. As for now we can only wait to see what happens.