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#1034497 - 09/15/11 10:41 AM [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 ****
John Frieh Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 6203
TRs: 52 Photos: 1185
Loc: PDX
Trip: Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA)

Date: 9/11/2011

Trip Report:
Summary: First Ascent of the East Aręte of Burkett Needle on September 11th 2011. Dave Burdick, John Frieh and Zac West. “Repeat Offender” IV 5.9 M5 AI3



Details: On September 9th, 2011 Dave Burdick, Zac West and I (John Frieh) flew to the Burkett Glacier in the heart of SE Alaska’s Stikine Icecap. A rare two-day weather window had appeared in between the record storms and rainfall that had been hammering the area all summer long. Our intentions on Mt. Burkett were soon abandoned after observing how active and broken the hanging glacier on the approach was in its fall state. Instead we turned our attentions to the unclimbed East Aręte of Burkett Needle, a 2300’ alpine tower immediately West of Mt. Burkett.

The following day our team ascended a rock rib to access the icefall below the Needle’s Southeast Face. The glacier was quite broken and required climbing into moats and up a short serac to reach the gully that leads to the base of the East Aręte. Deteriorating weather caused us to bivouac at the col and attempt the climb the next day.

On September 11th, we ascended steep snow and low 5th rock up the lower aspects of the East Aręte to a prominent gendarme. A short wall lead up and over the gendarme to exposed rock and mixed climbing along and right of the ridge crest to the false summit. A short rappel brought us to the summit tower where our route joined the 1964 Kor-Davis North ridge. Three mixed snow and rock pitches lead to the summit. We rappelled and downclimbed the Northeast face to descend.

The East Aręte “Repeat Offender” (IV 5.9 M5 AI3) represents the 6th ascent of the peak. Many thanks to the Copp-Dash Inspire Award and the Mazama Expedition Committee for supporting our trip, Dieter Klose for support and allowing us to climb while the Icecap was “closed for the season” and to our pilot Wally from Temsco Air.

Dave Burdick
John Frieh
Zac West

2009 First Ascent of the West Ridge of Burkett Needle "Smash and Grab" Trip Report

Pictures: Yes we have many more photos and video to share but in accordance with the grant we will be putting it all together into a multimedia presentation to share at a later date (a slideshow perhaps?) so... stay tuned!















Approach Notes:
Temsco Air

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#1034500 - 09/15/11 11:06 AM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
Alpinfox Offline
Tebow Believer

Registered: 03/05/02
Posts: 5220
TRs: 22 Photos: 320

Hell of an accomplishment and great style.

Congrats guys!
_________________________
let's spank this pony and see where she goes

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#1034501 - 09/15/11 11:09 AM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
olyclimber Offline

☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 24481
TRs: 31 Photos: 838
Loc: In Love with You
Nice work brosef's! Way to crush on my brothers turf up there!
_________________________
SNACKS!!!!!

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#1034502 - 09/15/11 11:14 AM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
spionin Offline
the reverend

Registered: 03/10/08
Posts: 473
TRs: 26 Photos: 443
Loc: seattle, wa
wow, awesome!
great matching beards, too.
_________________________
mountain softwoman

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#1034519 - 09/15/11 01:05 PM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: spionin]
Sol Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1639
TRs: 30 Photos: 401
Loc: leavenworth
Crush

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#1034528 - 09/15/11 02:11 PM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
wfinley Offline
veteran

Registered: 04/27/04
Posts: 1202
TRs: 9 Photos: 12
Loc: anchortown
rocken And all the locals say you can't climb this stuff in September.

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#1034530 - 09/15/11 02:18 PM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: wfinley]
John Frieh Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 6203
TRs: 52 Photos: 1185
Loc: PDX
Originally Posted By: wfinley
rocken And all the locals say you can't climb this stuff in September.


We had to petition Dieter to "reopen the icecap" and were warned to "beware the equinox!" by a local who shall remain anonymous laf smile

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#1034550 - 09/15/11 03:46 PM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
Sol Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1639
TRs: 30 Photos: 401
Loc: leavenworth
Beautiful line, btw.

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#1034552 - 09/15/11 03:54 PM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: Sol]
John Frieh Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 6203
TRs: 52 Photos: 1185
Loc: PDX
Originally Posted By: Sol
Beautiful line, btw.


Thanks duder tup

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#1034565 - 09/15/11 06:01 PM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
genepires Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 06/27/01
Posts: 3445
TRs: 8 Photos: 59
Loc: monroe-ville
another awesome job!
_________________________
climbing is good enough for a lifetime but a lifetime is not good enough for climbing.

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#1034592 - 09/16/11 07:06 AM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
ZimZam Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/01/05
Posts: 1836
TRs: 1 Photos: 61
Loc: The Rez
Yow-za!!! Here's to recidivism. brew
_________________________
I hear the train a comin'.

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#1034595 - 09/16/11 08:30 AM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
Zoran Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/07/04
Posts: 321
TRs: 0 Photos: 7
Loc: British Columbia, Canada
Very good work guys! Congratulations ... Amazing place to be!

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#1034602 - 09/16/11 08:59 AM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
Dan_Miller Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/29/06
Posts: 445
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Loc: Seattle/Heronwood
Wow.

The other unclimbed fin of the rocket ship preparing to take off has now been ascended.

I vividly recall staring up at it (during the brief times it would peak through the clouds) for over two weeks in 1979 while camped directly underneath it.

Way to perservere all summer while awaiting an acceptable weather window. It can get nasty and stay that way on the Stikine for weeks or more at a time, even in summer.

Excellent job fella's!
_________________________
'What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above.'

Rene Daumal

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#1034603 - 09/16/11 09:23 AM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
ezra Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/02/11
Posts: 53
TRs: 2 Photos: 0
Loc: Ideeeho
Way to go John, another Bad A$$ FA, congrats!!!!

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#1034611 - 09/16/11 09:57 AM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
DPS Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/13/00
Posts: 3614
TRs: 19 Photos: 56
Correct me if I am mistaken, but haven't all the ascents on Burkett Needle been done by PNW climbers? If so, way to carry the torch!
_________________________
Dispensing piss poor advice for since October, 2000.

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#1034691 - 09/16/11 05:58 PM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: DPS]
John_Scurlock Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/06/04
Posts: 246
TRs: 1 Photos: 0
Loc: Concrete, WA
Originally Posted By: DPS
haven't all the ascents on Burkett Needle been done by PNW climbers?


1999?, Frenchmen Lionel Daudet and Sebastien Foissac, SW buttress/S face, third ascent. and the north/northeast arete, that's had an ascent, right?

anyway, great climb gents... fantastic area & a highly compelling peak.... amongst several in there... my guess is you had some nice views of DT's incredible nw face...
_________________________
John Scurlock

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#1034703 - 09/16/11 08:09 PM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John_Scurlock]
Tom_Sjolseth Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/02/05
Posts: 502
TRs: 45 Photos: 1948
Loc: Wenatchee (The Kent of the Eas...
Nice work, gentlemen!
_________________________
Heavy and slow.

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#1034708 - 09/16/11 09:03 PM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
Blake Offline
kiwi-wanker

Registered: 10/15/03
Posts: 2900
TRs: 46 Photos: 764
Rad! Psyched to see the video!

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#1034723 - 09/17/11 07:21 AM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John_Scurlock]
John Frieh Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 6203
TRs: 52 Photos: 1185
Loc: PDX
Originally Posted By: John_Scurlock
Originally Posted By: DPS
haven't all the ascents on Burkett Needle been done by PNW climbers?


1999?, Frenchmen Lionel Daudet and Sebastien Foissac, SW buttress/S face, third ascent. and the north/northeast arete, that's had an ascent, right?

anyway, great climb gents... fantastic area & a highly compelling peak.... amongst several in there... my guess is you had some nice views of DT's incredible nw face...


John is correct; the French have a line on it. Additionally the very first ascent was by Layton Kor... though he climbed everywhere I do believe Colorado was home base. Everything else was by PNW climbers I do believe

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#1034776 - 09/17/11 08:14 PM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2520
TRs: 21 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
Great work guys. I can't wait for the slideshow!
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

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#1034786 - 09/18/11 06:51 AM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
JensHolsten Offline
member

Registered: 12/17/03
Posts: 186
TRs: 2 Photos: 8
Nice!!

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#1034881 - 09/19/11 10:21 AM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: JensHolsten]
Gaucho Argentino Offline
member

Registered: 08/13/10
Posts: 168
TRs: 12 Photos: 124
Loc: Seattle
What type / how solid is the rock over there?

And awesome climb, BTW... I was so stoked with my TFT climb, way to raise the bar, Dudes ! rawk
_________________________
...What's the worst that can happen?

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#1034885 - 09/19/11 10:31 AM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: Gaucho Argentino]
olyclimber Offline

☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 24481
TRs: 31 Photos: 838
Loc: In Love with You
granite
_________________________
SNACKS!!!!!

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#1034896 - 09/19/11 12:52 PM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: olyclimber]
John Frieh Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 6203
TRs: 52 Photos: 1185
Loc: PDX
Originally Posted By: Gaucho Argentino
What type / how solid is the rock over there?


Originally Posted By: olyclimber
granite


Solid GOLD! laf

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#1034937 - 09/19/11 04:50 PM Re: [TR] Burkett Needle - East Aręte "Repeat Offender" (FA) 9/11/2011 [Re: John Frieh]
Gaucho Argentino Offline
member

Registered: 08/13/10
Posts: 168
TRs: 12 Photos: 124
Loc: Seattle
Sweeet, Prusik-like solid granite in the middle of Alaska? Paradise on Earth tup ...
_________________________
...What's the worst that can happen?

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