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Buckaroo

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About Buckaroo

  • Rank
    veteran
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

Converted

  • Location
    forced bivy
  1. Matterhorn questions

    My question would be what is the direction of the rock strata. I know the Hornli is facing up so you get jugs to climb and the Liongrat is facing down so it's more difficult. Not sure about the Zmutt.
  2. Close call for Summitchaser

    Soloing is all about being very practiced at downclimbing, at least it is at this grade. If you can't reverse your moves, don't climb up. Especially if you don't know if the route goes or not. When John Bachar soloed he was very good at this. He would climb up and down repeatedly making one more move each time.
  3. First!

    When there's a huge solar energy spill.... It's just called a nice day.
  4. First!

    Climb up it, then stand up on the top Are they even wearing sticky rubber, or just regular tennis shoes?
  5. This is an amazing shot Did the dog get to summit?
  6. Hayden Kennedy Dead

    [video:youtube]
  7. Killer Goatz headed to the North Cascades?

    I do know that if you advertise a pet goat on Craigslist people will respond that just want a free barbecue.
  8. Stuff is on fire

    Was on the Tooth summit Sunday afternoon through Monday morning, could see about 7 fires. Was clear on Sunday then by Monday morning the wind had changed and visibility went to about 500 ft. One fire was just West of Stuart and the peak was going in and out of the smoke. Two fires to the NNE, then Stuart, Vantage, Wenatchee, Crystal Then at night you could see the orange glow from the fires. The Tooth was encouraging in that there was a Gazillion tourons going to Snow Lake but when the trail cut off towards the Tooth it went to just a handful of people. Over a day and a half on the Tooth only saw 9 other climbers which is about the same as it's been for over a decade. So the real climbing back country is not getting inundated at least from this small sample perspective. The Tooth was plan C and it was as good as ever. Plan A was the South route on Garfield main, aborted because forgot key gear and had to go back to the house and return which put the South route out of the time window. Plan B was Garfield East and that got aborted by some black bears. This is like the 3rd time I've been shut down by bears, maybe need to start carrying flares again. Going up a gully and then an intersecting gully and saw a black bear crossing and going into the woods. So sat still observing and the bear came back out of the woods across the gully and into the woods on the other side. So waited again debating whether to wait and cross paths if it stayed in the woods. Then a cub comes out of the woods into the gully.... oh sh*t. I'm outa here. They were only about 100 yards away but luckily the gully I was in had running water that was masking my noise and I was downwind, I don't think they ever knew I was there. So driving back and forth from the trailhead twice and then 1000 vert ft of gully never even getting out of the trees, batting zero so far, and it's already noon on Sunday so the holiday weekend is already 1/4 done. (had to work Sat) So on to the Tooth which I haven't done in about 5 years. With overnight gear and no rock shoes, only sticky hikers. The cruxes kind of got my attention more than I remember but it was easier downclimbing the next day. And at the summit bivy late that night I'm wondering, can bears climb the Tooth? And wonder of wonders no night snaffles on the summit. But then two stoned Portlanders came up about 4:00 am and the leader made a sound just like a mountain goat and I'm thinking when did goats start climbing the Tooth? Oh wait it's got a headlamp. Had to work extra hard at it but this year I did not get skunked on Labor Day. Yeeee Haaaa!!! And to think we work all year and we're only worth one day? How come it's not labor week? And if the BeeZose types could have their way it would only be labor hour and then back to the toothpicks out of logs factory. And I had the Android and got into a really good distopian postcyberpunk scifi ebook as the moon crossed over. A few fires and some big hurricanes and floods? The earth is like a giant Honey Badger, it just don't give a fu*k. If you look at geological history it started as a ball of molten rock and also had a 20 million year period where it was a ball of solid ice with glaciers 1500 ft thick at the equator. The ice was so heavy it crushed down the land so when it melted the land had to spring back up. And to think life started before this cooling period and survived in the deep oceans during that time. And if the earth gets pissed it's going to eat man up like a poisonous snake and if we bite it it'll just pass out for a while and then wake back up.
  9. You took no rap rope or harness? Whoa, that makes it even more committing. Way to go.
  10. Yeah I tried this after Wayne and Josh did it the first time. Only 1 attempt though, I got as far as Fury from Luna. Screwed up the logistics and just never got back up there. I traversed the ridge from Luna to Fury and thought just that was a pretty good experience. I took rock shoes and felt like I wanted them, although I climbed NE buttress of Slesse in tech hikers. Did you take the ridge from Luna to Fury or did you drop down the side? It was mostly bare rock when I did it.
  11. AWESOME Did you climb it in trail runners or did you have rock shoes?
  12. [TR] Sloan Peak - Corkscrew 7/29/2017

    Nice shot. Seems like on any climb in WA you can always see your next possible objective.
  13. Fatality on Goat Wall...?

    RIP fellow climber I think what happens with a simul rap is the first person down goes into cruise control and just automatically goes into regular rapping mode and gets off the rope as soon as they get to the anchor. I've seen this happen before but the other person only fell a few feet and was unhurt.
  14. Dwayner news?

    It wasn't lost, it knew where it was the whole time
  15. As has already been said, forget about down. And the only breathable that keeps you dry in hours of pouring rain is an expensive Goretex branded jacket. Otherwise some of the sil or urethane lined stuff works okay. HelliHansen used to make a nice heavier set of urethane lined jacket and zip pants that I would trust on a big wall but I haven't seen it lately. I've found the best thing on a long rainy approach through say forest is an umbrella. You can even tie it to your pack.
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