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#946183 - 03/07/10 09:31 PM [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3366
TRs: 59 Photos: 588
Loc: Seattle!
Trip: Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider

Date: 3/6/2010

Trip Report:



Over the last 23 or so years, I developed an interest (read: obsession) with the ice climbs up an obscure volcanic wall on the East Face of mt Hood. I first viewed the face while doing a solo ski traverse around the upper Mt. Hood in 1987. Jeff Thomas’ Oregon High book had some questions looking for any information on the Eiger like wall. The hook was very set, as it was basically untouched and offered 6-10 big climbs around 1000' feet tall. Without any info, I started a campaign of exploration up its many ice routes with great results. Steve Elder and I did the first ascent of the main wall in feb-94, followed by a couple other routes that were nothing less than astounding alpine climbs of the highest order. Then I began a long series of attempts on the “Center Drip”‘ that took the best line on the entire face. Finding never-ending setbacks with weather and conditions, my patience wore thin after more than a dozen attempts. It finally came together this March with reports of Ice on the wall from 2 great sources. My local Pullman partner , Beau- accompanied me on our successful bid. The climb went so very well.We did it in blocks with 4 total pitches , the final crux one was a full 60 m of airy positioning. The route was an instant classic and deserves many ascents in the future. Besides incredible ambience, It is a very doable route as well.We had a great time on this wonderful classic climb. Enjoy the pictures and video, It felt really great to wrap up such a project. I will do a blow-by blow if wanted and I must promote the new Climbing Guide to Mt. Hood expected out this fall!
As always, looking forward to your trip report, Wayne




My 38th ice pitch this season.



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http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#946185 - 03/07/10 09:37 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: wayne]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 15120
TRs: 108 Photos: 1589
Loc: Oceania
nice, so what did everyone else do this weekend? lmao

glad you nailed it in time for the book!
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#946186 - 03/07/10 09:38 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: ivan]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 15120
TRs: 108 Photos: 1589
Loc: Oceania
so, now you've nailed it, what are you saying are the main indications the wall's in likely shape?
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#946189 - 03/07/10 09:44 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: wayne]
Water Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/12/09
Posts: 1134
TRs: 7 Photos: 170
Loc: pdx
rocken very, very cool. awesome to see such commitment and perseverance finally come to fruition! we were up on the spur on sat.. maybe your snowshoe tracks we saw down lower? looks like you were up on it well before we got very high on the spur.

congratulations on a job well done!!!!
_________________________
feel free to feel free

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#946192 - 03/07/10 09:47 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: Water]
rocketparrotlet Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/21/09
Posts: 611
TRs: 4 Photos: 0
Loc: Everett
Looks awesome! Great job on the FA! Have you climbed the route with the big waterfall to the left of it as well?

-Mark

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#946194 - 03/07/10 09:51 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: rocketparrotlet]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3366
TRs: 59 Photos: 588
Loc: Seattle!
Nope , it is on the video as "unclimbed". I am leaving for your generation.



Dont make us Washingtonians poach all of your good lines!
_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#946195 - 03/07/10 09:55 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: wayne]
rocketparrotlet Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/21/09
Posts: 611
TRs: 4 Photos: 0
Loc: Everett
Originally Posted By: wayne1112
Nope , it is on the video as "unclimbed". I am leaving for your generation.


Sorry I wasn't able to read it straight from the video.

Maybe in a few years when I know what I am doing, I will give it a shot! Such a beautiful route you put up. Congrats!

-Mark

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#946196 - 03/07/10 09:55 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: wayne]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 15120
TRs: 108 Photos: 1589
Loc: Oceania
Originally Posted By: wayne1112
Nope , it is on the video as "unclimbed". I am leaving for your generation.

quitter!!! smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#946204 - 03/07/10 10:20 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: ivan]
wolbs Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/09/09
Posts: 6
TRs: 1 Photos: 6
Loc: pdx
Nice work! Way to take advantage of the conditions/weather.

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#946205 - 03/07/10 10:25 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: ivan]
dirtysouth Offline
journeyman

Registered: 01/16/09
Posts: 54
TRs: 14 Photos: 77
Loc: Bend, OR
Until I read your trip report, I thought it was pretty cool that I put first tracks up the West Crater Rim on Saturday lmao No seriously, congrats on a sweeeeet climb!

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#946206 - 03/07/10 10:25 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: wolbs]
Pilchuck71 Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 05/26/09
Posts: 591
TRs: 12 Photos: 164
Loc: Bellingham, Washington
Very cool!
Congrats.
Nice photos especially # 3.
Cheers!
_________________________
www.onemansmountainadventures.blogspot.com

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#946208 - 03/07/10 10:29 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: wolbs]
TurinTheLost Offline
n00b

Registered: 10/27/09
Posts: 35
TRs: 3 Photos: 26
Amazing! Looks like such an awesome climb. What time did you top out? I was up on Cooper Spur and ran into Water. It's too bad we didn't bump into you guys.

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#946211 - 03/07/10 10:35 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: TurinTheLost]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3366
TRs: 59 Photos: 588
Loc: Seattle!
Originally Posted By: TurinTheLost
Amazing! Looks like such an awesome climb. What time did you top out? I was up on Cooper Spur and ran into Water. It's too bad we didn't bump into you guys.

Thanks, we were up at 5 am from our 8000' camp and summited at 10 am. Waiting to thank the guy who gave us an apple at the summit.
_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#946212 - 03/07/10 10:38 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: wayne]
Tom_Sjolseth Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/02/05
Posts: 491
TRs: 44 Photos: 1948
Loc: Wenatchee (The Kent of the Eas...
Sick. What a nice looking line!
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Heavy and slow.

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#946219 - 03/07/10 11:11 PM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: Tom_Sjolseth]
rocky_joe Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 02/25/08
Posts: 507
TRs: 16 Photos: 72
Loc: High Horse Mountain
damnwayne. that's awesome. thanks for the video stoke as well.
_________________________
On a never ending quest to not pay retail.

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#946228 - 03/08/10 02:57 AM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: rocky_joe]
stevetimetravlr Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/29/08
Posts: 1541
TRs: 2 Photos: 211
Loc: Washington
sweet

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#946236 - 03/08/10 06:53 AM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: stevetimetravlr]
Joe_Poulton Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/12/01
Posts: 374
TRs: 1 Photos: 45
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Great climbing...got to get on it! Anyone up for a first ascent of another line over there?

Congrat Wayne!
_________________________
Joe Poulton
Poulton Imaging
about.me/poultonimaging
poultonimaging.com
CIGP

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#946237 - 03/08/10 06:57 AM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: dirtysouth]
Joe_Poulton Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/12/01
Posts: 374
TRs: 1 Photos: 45
Loc: Vancouver, WA
I see a variation on Arachnophobia.
_________________________
Joe Poulton
Poulton Imaging
about.me/poultonimaging
poultonimaging.com
CIGP

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#946240 - 03/08/10 07:07 AM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: Joe_Poulton]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3366
TRs: 59 Photos: 588
Loc: Seattle!
Arach is so fat all the way. A direct finish is begging for your tools. Look for the window guys, as long as it doesnt get too warm

_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#946253 - 03/08/10 08:24 AM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6 [Re: wayne]
ColinB Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/16/06
Posts: 296
TRs: 7 Photos: 79
Loc: Portland, OR
Whats the pro like? Screws, pins, nuts? Too bad weather rolled in...

Congrats on finally getting the line done. A few of us were gunning for the same route on Thurs and bailed because we didn't like the snow stability.

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#946271 - 03/08/10 09:18 AM Re: [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201 [Re: wayne]
wdietsch Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/20/01
Posts: 970
TRs: 0 Photos: 57
Loc: vancouver, wa
outstanding .. !!! tup

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#946275 - 03/08/10 09:33 AM Re: [TR] Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider 3/6/2010 [Re: dirtysouth]
OlegV Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/14/04
Posts: 591
TRs: 19 Photos: 244
Loc: Potland, OR
Congrats on your climb! Looks impressive. What camera are you using?

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#946276 - 03/08/10 09:35 AM Re: [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201 [Re: wdietsch]
billbob Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 06/13/06
Posts: 413
TRs: 0 Photos: 87
Loc: Portland ?
Congratulations Wayne !!

Thanks for the inspiration, and thanks for all your help with the Guide.

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#946278 - 03/08/10 09:43 AM Re: [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201 [Re: billbob]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11672
TRs: 4 Photos: 870
Loc: pdx
Ditto on the congrats Wayne, sweet stuff. Nice to see an obsession actually not get someone arrested for once... lmao and it looks like the freezing level is actually dropping so it's gonna be there more than 15 min!

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#946281 - 03/08/10 09:50 AM Re: [TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201 [Re: billcoe]
sisu Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/07/08
Posts: 72
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: GYE
Nice job, Wayne! Glad you finally got it!
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When you reach the top of the mountain, keep climbing.

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